Discover the Alishan Forest Railway with GoTravelDaily
Our slow travel series highlights how to embark on mindful journeys without flying, encouraging travel by train, boat, bus, or bike. Here, we join Brian Healy on the 112-year-old Alishan Forest Railway in Taiwan.
What makes a misty mountaintop forest even more magical? The enchanting train ride to reach it.
Ascending approximately 7000ft over three long hours, the narrow-gauge Alishan Forest Railway in Western Taiwan has captivated rail enthusiasts for years.
Constructed by the occupying Japanese in 1912, this railway was designed to transport timber down to Taiwan’s bustling west coast. Today, the journey is just as captivating, as the trains pass through 50 tunnels and cross 77 bridges, leading to verdant old-growth forests.
From Timber to Tourism
This lush, high-altitude region, originally home to the Indigenous Tsou people, is enriched with Taiwania conifers, Formosa cypress, and Douglas fir. Together, they form the Alishan Forest Recreation Area.
Offering a refreshing retreat from the stifling coastal heat, the railway has a rich history. It faced potential closure multiple times due to the decline of the timber industry following WWII, but passionate rail enthusiasts intervened to preserve this unique route. Today, it stands as an eccentric gem within Taiwan’s extensive train network.
With its Z-shaped switchbacks and looping tunnels, the railway exemplifies innovative engineering. Trains depart from Chiayi, transitioning from scrubby woods to breathtaking vistas as they navigate the steep gradients, proceeding past remote stations.
Shortly before reaching Shizilu station, passengers can catch a glimpse of the stunning rock face of Mt Daito, reminding everyone that the small carriages have ascended significantly during the journey.
Keep an Eye Out for the Narrowest Tracks
The railway originates from Chiayi, a lively regional city with bustling streets and delectable night markets. While at the main station, passengers receive their tickets from uniformed rangers. Following clear signs, travelers proceed to a distinct platform with noticeably narrower tracks.
A brightly painted candy-apple-red diesel engine pulls the retrofitted carriages, featuring modern comforts such as air conditioning and improved seating, yet retaining the charm of yesteryears.
The train chugs through Chiayi, passing various sights—motorbikes at grade crossings and the backs of apartment buildings—before arriving at the lush countryside, which begins the ascent into the mountains.
As the train continues its climb, through the 5% gradient sections, hikers often disembark at remote stations, eager for adventure on foot.
A Short Ride Further Up for a Slow Walk through the Woods
Upon entering the park, visitors often hurry past the visitor center, heading straight to Alishan train station, an architectural delight made of local cypress wood. This historic structure facilitates a brief ride further up to Zhaoping station.
The original antique carriages, lovingly restored, emit a charming scent of polished wood. This melodious journey contrasts with faster forms of transportation, enriching the overall experience.
Just beyond Zhaoping station, the towering trees engulf visitors in nature’s serenity. The Tashan Trail offers a myriad of steps that lead to breathtaking vistas, while hikers enjoy a peaceful encounter with the surroundings.
A Closer Look at the Equipment
On the following day in Chiayi, visit the Alishan Forest Railway Garage Park, home to vintage steam locomotives and carriages. This charming venue emulates the atmosphere of Thomas the Tank Engine, making it an ideal stop for train enthusiasts of all ages.
The signal bell rings, and the crossing gate lowers as the morning departures leave for their daily climb. It’s impossible not to wonder what exciting adventures lie ahead for passengers as they journey into the clouds.
Conclusion
The Alishan Forest Railway exemplifies a unique travel experience that combines history, adventure, and stunning natural landscapes. The preserved railway not only connects passengers to one of Taiwan’s most beautiful forest areas but also serves as a testament to the dedication of those who cherish its legacy. A trip on this enchanting railway is indeed one for the books, promising a memorable journey through Taiwan’s stunning scenery.
