Exploring Northern Ireland: A Guide to Moors, Mountains, and Coastline

Experience the culture and charm of Northern Ireland with engaging activities and breathtaking scenery.

Exploring Northern Ireland: A Journey Through History and Culture

Murals in Belfast, Northern Ireland. Kent E. St. John photos.

By Kent E. St. John

As I swirled the ice cubes in my rocks glass, the bartender expressed an exaggerated shiver. “Ice gives us the willies, ever since the Titanic,” he remarked. This kind of self-deprecating humor is characteristic of the Northern Irish, a testament to their resilience amid historical troubles.

The “troubles” in Northern Ireland, marked by significant political and religious strife, have shaped the region’s complex identity. In 1986, I embarked on a journey through Dublin to Northern Ireland, an eye-opening experience that transformed the questions surrounding my travels from “Why?” to “Why not?”

St. Patrick’s Center

En route from Belfast Airport to the

St. Patrick’s Center

in County Down, I conversed with my guide, acclaimed playwright Ken McElroy. He emphasized that Northern Ireland is a microcosm of the Irish Republic, brimming with moors, mountains, and a rich historical tapestry. Thus, I dedicated the next six nights to explore this theory through diverse experiences.

St. Patrick’s Trail

Should St. Patrick be present today, he would be recognized as a Northern Irishman, albeit an adopted one. County Down, where he spent significant time, is home to both a Protestant and Catholic cathedral, a reminder of the region’s intricate history.

The multimedia

St. Patrick Centre

, located approximately forty minutes south of Belfast, serves as an excellent starting point for anyone interested in Northern Ireland’s Christian heritage. Its exhibits draw from St. Patrick’s writings, illuminating the landscapes he traversed as he spread his messages. This location also features the patron saint’s gravesite, offering a breathtaking view of the surrounding mountains and valleys.

Railroad Baron

Our journey led us to the scenic coastal town of Newcastle and the

Slieve Donard Resort and Spa

, a historic stopover for affluent families traveling by rail. The resort preserves the elegance of its past, reflecting the prosperity that Northern Ireland experienced during the industrial revolution.

With a picturesque beachfront setting, Newcastle is ideal for relaxation. I indulged in an invigorating detoxing hot seaweed soak at the spa, which offers music-infused steam showers and a massive tub filled with local seaweed and warm saltwater.

As demanded by any discerning railroad magnate, I dined at the resort’s

Oak Room

, where dark-paneled interiors and soft candlelight created the perfect ambiance for savoring the locally sourced rack of lamb, paired with an exquisite assortment of organic cheeses and vintage port — a true culinary delight.

Newcastle epitomizes a traditional seaside resort, enhanced by the backdrop of the formidable

Slieve Mountains

.

The Black Cab tour of Belfast

Fore You

In Northern Ireland, the reverence for whiskey is paralleled only by the passion for golf. Here, the significance of Nick Faldo’s golf course design is monumental, particularly as it’s hailed as the best in the UK and the first in all of Ireland.

The


Lough Erne Golf Resort


enjoys this prestigious accolade, making it a must-visit for golfers seeking idyllic views and championship caliber courses.

The resort offers well-appointed guests rooms and suites, catering to every imaginable need, while also providing a tranquil spa experience that extends beyond golf. Exploring

Enniskillen

and the natural beauty of Fermanagh is a superb complement to any stay, reaffirmed by Rory McIlroy’s endorsement of the resort as “a great place to play and a great place to stay.”

Mr. President

An ironworker at the Ulster Folk Museum

Notably, a quarter of all U.S. Presidents trace their lineage back to Northern Ireland, including figures like Bill Clinton and Teddy Roosevelt. Although I typically shy away from overly curated attractions, the

Ulster Folk Museum

was a pleasant surprise.

This museum features various buildings and authentic artifacts that showcase the history of Ulster through periods of abundance and hardship, including an intriguing farmhouse belonging to the Mellon family, whose migration to the United States led to significant financial success.

The influence of Northern Irish immigrants on American history cannot be overstated, illustrated by a famine boat in the park, a poignant reminder of the journeys endured by many.

Londonderry or Derry

Having visited Northern Ireland multiple times throughout the years, I returned to

Londonderry

after several decades. My previous visit was marked by the presence of British troops and a city in turmoil, a contrast to the vibrant community seen today.

Children in Derry

Historically significant, Londonderry was besieged by Catholic King James, ultimately rescued by the Apprentice Day Boys, whose legacy is celebrated among Protestants.

The compelling murals in the Bogside, located within the city walls, serve as poignant reminders rather than simply political statements. Though Londonderry retains a more rugged charm in comparison to other Northern Irish cities, this characteristic enhances its appeal as a must-visit destination.

To fully appreciate Derry, enjoy a memorable meal at

Browns Restaurant

, renowned for exceptional culinary offerings, followed by an evening filled with lively music and pints at

Peader O’Donnell’s Pub.

A night out here is sure to delight. Whatever you choose to call it, Londonderry or Derry is a city that should not be missed!

Bushmills Boogie

On a rainy day, I took an enjoyable trip that included a historic inn, a whiskey distillery, and the captivating beauty of the

Giant’s Causeway.

This uniquely breathtaking site features approximately 40,000 hexagonal basalt columns rising under towering cliffs with Scotland visible in the distance.

The Giant’s Causeway

The Giant’s Causeway, a UNESCO World Heritage site, captures the imagination, said to be created by Finn MacCool as a means to confront his Scottish rival, Benandonner. Regardless of its origin, this spectacle leaves an indelible impression.

Additionally, the

Bushmills Distillery

has been crafting Irish whiskey since the 13th century. A tour of the distillery provides a delightful way to spend a rainy afternoon, enhanced further by the opportunity to taste the whiskey. A nearby historic inn,


Bushmills Inn


, provides an inviting atmosphere that combines modern amenities with traditional charm, while meals available at the inn nourish the soul.

Belfast over the Blues

Once regarded as the world leader in various industries, Belfast experienced significant turmoil during the Troubles. Today, however, it has blossomed into a vibrant city, with tours available that explore its historically troubled areas, including the Shankhill and Falls districts.

The Titanic Center under construction

A leisurely stroll through the city’s pedestrian center offers shopping and dining opportunities, and landmarks like the

Opera House

and

Ulster Museum

add to the city’s cultural appeal. Belfast boasts a distinguished artistic heritage, with notable figures like Van Morrison, Liam Neeson, and Kenneth Branagh emerging from this dynamic environment.

Reputable establishments like the


Merchant


hotel showcase the city’s luxury, boasting beautifully designed rooms and a bar filled with vibrant character. Spa services and a rooftop gym with a jacuzzi are enticing features that further elevate the guest experience within the Cathedral Quarter, enabling convenient access to local attractions.

As Belfast continues to flourish, its nightlife thrives, attracting visitors from across Europe. The much-anticipated

Titanic Center

opened its doors recently, yet Belfast already has much to offer, making it an ideal place to begin or conclude any visit with numerous direct flights available from the U.S.


Further Information

This article serves as an introductory glimpse into the charm of Northern Ireland. For additional travel planning resources, visit

discovernorthernireland.com

, which is rich in valuable information for a fulfilling visit.

The accommodations featured in my journey throughout Northern Ireland cater to all preferences and budgets, encompassing everything from charming inns to luxurious resorts.

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