Journey through the enchanting Siwa Oasis in Egypt, experiencing rich culture and stunning landscapes amidst ancient history.

Journey to Siwa

By Robin Graham

The drive to Siwa, located in the heart of Egypt’s Great Sand Sea, presents a stark landscape devoid of features for miles. As we navigate this featureless desert, the journey becomes a study in sensory deprivation, evoking a sense of disorientation.

After at least nine hours of travel—five from Cairo to Marsah Matruh on Egypt’s Mediterranean coast and an additional four southwest into the Sahara—we arrive at our lodge. Although bus services are available, our impatience prompted us to hire a driver, effectively reducing travel time by half an hour for approximately thirty-five euros over a 300-kilometer stretch.

As we approach Siwa, a community that has become increasingly integrated with the outside world since the completion of an asphalt road in the mid-eighties, we find that locals have access to the internet and mobile phones. Moreover, commercial flights now serve the Siwa Oasis from the Marsah North airport, located 300 kilometers away.

Nevertheless, we embrace the allure of this remote oasis, historically known as the

Land of Palms

, and famous as the home of the legendary

Oracle of Amon

, where significant figures like Alexander the Great sought guidance for their reigns.

As we continue our journey, we meet a group of men traveling in the opposite direction, communicating in their native Siwi dialect, a language incomprehensible to our Bedouin driver from Marsah. As dusk falls, we descend into the oasis, catching our first sight of the ancient Shali fortress, remnants of the historical lifestyle of Siwan people.

The Night at the Spring

Later, at Ayn al-Gubah, the Spring of Juba, we partake in New Year’s Eve festivities surrounded by local residents who celebrate with music, dance, and roasting goats over open flames. This gathering takes place in a serene setting, with the soothing sounds of Berber music accompanying the flickering firelight.

As midnight approaches, I dip my hand into the warm waters of the spring, which intriguingly bubbles from depth. Despite local legends suggesting the water heats and cools, the consistent warmth is a reminder of the oasis’s unique geological characteristics. Known also as Ayn al-Hammam or Cleopatra’s Bath, it serves as a historical treasure for those who visit.

Siwa Shali

Siwa Shali stands as a historical fortified structure at the core of the oasis, a home for Siwan families. The surrounding date palm gardens were tended by men known as Zaggalah, who led a unique social existence. Their customs sometimes starkly opposed mainstream Islamic practices, notably regarding relationships.

The oasis has seen transformations since King Fu’ad’s visit in 1928 when he pronounced these practices unacceptable. Over years, such behaviors faded into obscurity while various aspects of Siwan culture persisted.

In Siwa, women are often rarely seen in public, adhering closely to traditional customs that dictate their movement and attire. Despite social constraints, Siwan women are recognized for their exquisite clothing and jewelry, which remain a private expression of their heritage.

The Ancient Village of Siwa

With a desire to experience the sprawling sea of sand, we embark on a 4×4 adventure guided by Yussuf. A short distance south of Siwa, we become immersed in the picturesque dunes rising impressively around us, reaching heights of fifty meters. Despite the occasional presence of other visitors, solitude prevails in most areas.

Further into the desert, as fossilized shells crunch beneath our feet, we share a special connection with the history of this land, once submerged under an ocean. Near Bir Wahed, where a hot spring nourishes a small garden, we reflect on the sounds and sights of nature in this ephemeral landscape.

Alexander’s Oracle

The Oracle of Amon temple, perched on an inselberg, is a site that captures the imagination. Despite its modest size, its setting enhances its significance, overlooking a lush expanse of palms and ancient ruins. Interesting architectural features, including hidden passages, hint at its mystical past.

Shifting Sands

On our first morning in Siwa, breakfast on a rooftop leads us to explore the Shali fortress, where the vibrant market atmosphere encapsulates daily life. The distinct character of Siwan culture is evident, notably in the laid-back approach to vendor interactions, contrasting sharply with the high-energy negotiations typical of Cairo.

As we traverse the remnants of the Shali, we witness the dual narratives of decay and renewal. A blend of historical significance and contemporary life shapes the scenery, as new structures in traditional design emerge beside ruins, hinting at a hopeful future.

Robin Graham is a freelance writer and photographer living in Dublin, Ireland. He has traveled extensively in Europe, Africa, the US, and the Middle East.