Edward Abbey famously called it “an oasis of ugliness in the midst of a beautiful wasteland,” and, at first blush, Phoenix, Arizona does seem like a city defined by such sharp contrasts. A hard, bright light falls on the concrete grid which presses up against the undulating waves of the Salt River and Superstition Mountains. It’s a city whose ancient irrigation networks, built by the Hohokam people, were later used to grow a lush network of post-war golf courses and subdivisions sprawling across the Valley of the Sun. But there’s more here than meets the eye.
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