Costa Rica is celebrated as the world’s happiest place, offering a unique blend of natural beauty and sustainable living.
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Is Costa Rica Really the Happiest Place in the World?
According to an international poll, the ecotourism paradise ranks first on the “World Database of Happiness,” followed by Denmark, with the United States positioned at 20 out of 148.
“Pura Vida” translates to Pure Life, resonating deeply through activities like ziplining across cloud canopies and practicing yoga by spring-fed waterfalls.
Costa Rica boasts a unique aspect: the absence of an army, protected rainforests, and a lifestyle that is 90% sustainable. But does this sustainability correlate with happiness? The answer awaited me just a plane ticket away.
Bungalow is English for “Cheap”
Upon searching for accommodations, I discovered a “Tico Organic Bungalow” in Brujo de Rio Nueva through Airbnb, realizing that “Tico” refers to Costa Ricans while “Bungalow” means budget-friendly. My contact provided me with a driver’s number to facilitate my journey.
Dr. Seuss Landscape
The journey to my bungalow proved challenging. My driver, Victor, met me in San Isidro, a couple of hours south of San Jose, and we traveled along bumpy roads surrounded by a Dr. Seuss-esque landscape, where steep emerald mountains and whimsical cattle adorned the scenery.
After a lengthy journey, we arrived at a red bridge where an ATV rider, greeting me with a warm “Pura Vida!,” whisked me away across a narrow bridge and into the heart of my destination.
With rushing waters beneath and towering cliffs above, we soon halted, greeted by Tamara, a 32-year-old American expat who co-owns the property with the ATV driver.
The Pure Life
Their extensive indoor/outdoor Fincas included three children, a variety of animals, and lush gardens. A tour revealed vibrant produce resembling the finest offerings at Whole Foods.
My bungalow, a short walk down a banana tree-lined path, was an idyllic retreat with no electricity—“Just go to bed when it gets dark and wake up with the sunshine,” said Tamara.
Fear then Food
Navigating the darkness at night for dinner was daunting, with only a headlamp to guide me. Despite my fear, a sumptuous feast awaited—a delightful blend of homegrown produce, beans, and homemade cheese, paired with a refreshing drink from mountain springs.
We exchanged stories until dawn, surrounded by the symphony of the night. The next morning, I savored fresh juice and breakfast from home-raised ingredients, a true testament to sustainable living.
Jungle Swim
One morning, accompanied by the children, we ventured into the Los Santos Forest reserve. We traversed diverse ecosystems before reaching a breathtaking waterfall for a refreshing swim.
Our daily adventures included hikes, gardening, and enjoying post-rain swims in the river, marking the natural rhythm of life in this vibrant landscape.
On my last night, as Tamara planted bok choy beneath the full moon, our heartfelt farewell highlighted the challenge of leaving this paradise behind.
The Pure Surfer Life
Quepos, the nearest beach town, offers a laid-back atmosphere with stunning sandy shores just outside Manuel Antonio National Park. A visit to a local hotel introduced me to delicious fresh Mahi Mahi, perfectly complemented by a spicy jalapeño sauce.
The vibrant main street featured bars, restaurants, boutiques, and the renowned Café Milagro, hailed for its exquisite espresso—a delightful beginning to a new phase of my journey.
The Pure Student Life
On my final day, I indulged in a beautiful meal at Wok Noodles, a cozy spot known for its eclectic atmosphere and artistic flair. The bowl filled with crab, mussels, and other delicious seafood left me with a lasting impression of the culinary scene in San Jose.
As I enjoyed my meal, the lively atmosphere outside contrasted with the tranquility inside. It was a perfect encapsulation of the Pura Vida spirit that resonates throughout Costa Rica.
Author Mary Nelen of Massachusetts is a writer, photographer, and locavore.
