A captivating journey across Mongolia’s diverse landscapes reveals the enchanting wilderness and rich wildlife of this vast country.
Contents:
A Moonlit Scene in the Gobi
By Rensina van den Heuvel
A bright, white moon adorns the velvety sky, illuminating the desolate landscape surrounding our Land Rover with a warm golden hue.
Despite its beauty, the setting belies the harshness of the environment. We find ourselves camped in the Gobi Desert, where the wind howls fiercely, its strength undeniable.
After searching for a campsite, we discovered an abandoned winter shelter, strategically parking the Land Rover beside it. The walls constructed from countless hand-sized pieces of slate showcase colors of the rainbow, held together by mud. Rugged mountains surround us, reflecting the moonlight in their peaks, creating a breathtaking scene.
The Quest for Water
Having spent seventeen days in Mongolia, we find the country absolutely enchanting. Following a brief stay in Ulaanbaatar for visa arrangements, we were eager to embrace the wilderness.
After shipping our Land Rover from Brisbane to South Korea and navigating through Russia, we crossed the border into Mongolia, anticipating a two-month exploration of its magnificent terrains.
I am aware this time may not suffice, for Mongolia’s vastness is overwhelming—it’s a place where one feels they can see forever and then some more.
As we navigate through the arid expanse of the Gobi Desert, we intermittently stop at various huts and wells in search of water. Unfortunately, many of our attempts yield only locked sheds, revealing that the water pumps within are no longer operational.
Encountering Bactrian Camels
Today, I encountered my first two Bactrian camels—massive creatures characterized by their strong build and thick caramel-colored fur. Their velvety eyes, framed by long lashes, appear gentle as they exhibit a grace that contrasts with their robust forms.
For the past two days, we have not encountered any vehicles or fellow travelers. As we head southwest across a wild landscape—free from established tracks, relying solely on GPS and Russian maps—we experience the harsh conditions of the desert.
The Harsh Beauty of the Landscape
Amidst the desolate beauty, we stumble upon various wooden shelters, hoping to find water. Near one abandoned well, I discovered the desiccated remains of a young goat, preserved by the arid conditions.
Before reaching the next town, we find a well with seemingly clean water. Ingeniously, Allen crafts a scoop from our mattress bag and gathers enough to fill our ten-liter water container with icy-cold liquid.
Our eyes are set on finding shelter for the night, causing us to settle in the slate shelter we previously passed.
A Brief Stop at a Village
The following morning greets us with persistent gusts of wind. A brisk trek up a steep nearby hill reveals a well-crafted rock cairn, prompting me to add a stone to the pile before retreating to enjoy some Russian oats.
We continue across the vast desert landscape, dotted with undulating hills until we encounter a small, lifeless village where the few inhabitants greet us with vacant stares. We briefly barter for some rice and apples, but the atmosphere feels solely focused on mere survival.
The Town of Mandah
After traversing a hundred kilometers of barren earth, we unexpectedly arrive at Mandah, nestled among striking rock formations. The locals are welcoming, although Allen’s appearance raises eyebrows, generating a mix of curiosity and fear.
Shopping here reveals a scarcity of fresh produce—only a few potatoes available. With a longing for fruit, I begin a quest, following a watermelon that I glimpse in someone’s grasp.
With the help of two elderly women, I manage to secure two delightful watermelons—a true treasure in this dry expanse, reviving my spirits significantly.
A Watermelon Hunt
Ecstatic, I return with my bounty while a small crowd of curious onlookers gathers near the Land Rover, exchanging smiles and nods as we prepare to depart.
While in the town’s center, we take advantage of a water pump, filling up our bottles before heading back into the expansive desert where not a single blade of grass can be seen.
Observing Life in the Wilderness
An hour later, we encounter an old man surrounded by an impressive herd of goats and sheep. His weathered face radiates character, embodying the harsh life of this environment.
As we continue our journey, I appreciate that no photo can encapsulate the complete depth of my experiences, emotions, and observations throughout Mongolia. The vivid images of Bactrian camels, desolate landscapes, and friendly faces engrave themselves into my heart.
This profound journey through Mongolia will forever remain etched in my memory and soul.
