Córdoba offers a rich tapestry of history, vibrant architecture, and mouthwatering cuisine, making it a must-visit Spanish city.
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A Walk Through Córdoba
By Tristan Cano
Córdoba, originally established in Roman times, evolved into one of Europe’s largest cities, boasting a population exceeding a million inhabitants. It served as the capital of Al-Andalus and became a hub of culture and learning, representing the spiritual core of Islamic Spain.
The city is centered around the magnificent Mesquita (Mosque), the largest in Spain, where the historic streets showcase an eclectic blend of diverse cultures and religions that have influenced the area over time.
This rich cultural heritage is manifested in its historic buildings and distinct architecture, alongside a maze of cobblestone streets sheltered by orange trees, leading to some of the most picturesque squares in Andalucía.
Seeing the Sights
The ideal starting point for exploring this remarkable city is the Mesquita itself, which serves as an architectural representation of Córdoba’s identity, melding Muslim and Spanish styles. Following the expulsion of the Moors at the close of the 15th century, Christian rulers dismantled the center of the mosque to erect a cathedral within its main prayer hall.
While some visitors may appreciate the striking fusion of styles, the former symmetry of this grand structure has vanished. King Carlos V astutely remarked that his clerics had “destroyed something unique in the world to build something [they] could have put up anywhere.”
The building’s battlements and bell tower merit attention, whether from the perimeter or from the free-access internal Patio de los Naranjos. Admission to the mosque incurs a fee of €8.00 per person; however, entry is complimentary from 8:00 to 10:00 a.m. every Monday.
Murky Waters
Flowing south of the Mesquita are the murky brown waters of the Guadalquivir River, which have historically provided protection for Córdoba residents against invaders.
A series of bridges connect both riverbanks, the most significant being the Puente Romano, from which visitors can observe the remnants of an ancient Moorish water mill beneath the flowing waters. The Calahorra Tower at the southern end of the bridge houses the fascinating Museo Vivo de Al-Andalus, where visitors can enjoy some of the finest views of the Mesquita and old town from the museum’s rooftop.
Additionally, on the northern end of the Puente Romano lies the Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos, a castle-fortress with striking gardens built by Christian monarchs on the site of a former Moorish stronghold.
This castle exhibits an Islamic architectural style, yet its Arab baths and Moorish gardens were established during Christian rule. The Alcázar encompasses the Patio Morisco, or the Courtyard of the Moriscos, a term describing Muslims who converted to Catholicism during Spain’s reconquest.
The castle features three towers; the Torre de la Inquisición presents a stunning display of mosaics and a sarcophagus dating back to the Roman era of the city.
For authentic Moorish architecture, a trip five kilometers outside the city is essential to visit the ruins of the palace of Medina Azahara, discovered in the early 1900s after centuries of being lost and forgotten.
When Should I Visit?
Córdoba showcases its beauty year-round; nonetheless, it is particularly stunning in late spring and early summer, when flowers in the squares and whitewashed patios bloom vibrantly.
The Festival de Patios, held annually during the second week of May, signifies a city-wide competition to identify the most beautifully designed patios, offering visitors an ideal opportunity to explore magnificent displays of color.
Additionally, make certain to visit Calleja de las Flores, adjacent to the tower side of the Mesquita, showcasing a charming street that leads to a typical Cordoban square featuring a quaint fountain. The feria, occurring at the end of May, is another optimal time to experience the city, along with the International Guitar Festival held in July, which attracts music enthusiasts globally.
Feeling Hungry?
Dining out is an integral part of life in Córdoba, with numerous inviting eateries located in the elegant Jewish quarter housing Andalucía’s only surviving 13th-century synagogue.
An array of exceptional tapas bars can be found around the Mezquita, particularly along Calle Deanes and Calle Cespedes, where many of the city’s finest hotels are situated. Visitors should not miss trying the local Salmorejo, a refreshing cold vegetable soup made from tomatoes, garnished with hard-boiled egg and Serrano ham; flamenquines, scrumptious pork fritters wrapped in Serrano ham, are also a must-try.
For a unique dining experience, enjoy a meal in the patio of one of the fine establishments close to Puerta de Sevilla or on Plaza de la Corredera, the city’s version of Madrid’s Plaza Mayor, which attracts thousands celebrating the New Year.
How to Get There
Córdoba does not have regular scheduled flights, so the best option is to fly into Málaga Airport, the primary connecting hub for the region. The airport in Seville also serves as a convenient gateway for Andalucía.
The AVE train operates from both airports, transporting travelers to Córdoba in approximately one hour. For those driving from Málaga Airport, take the AP-7 Motorway towards Málaga and connect to the A-45, using exit 405 for Córdoba’s city center.
