Yerevan can be perplexing. Its neoclassical squares conjure Vienna, while its wide boulevards brim with Parisian élan. There’s no escaping the sprawl of brutal high-rises that shoulder its Soviet past; however, recent investment has helped embalm the city’s rougher edges with glinting streets, a cable car, and an arts center, all begging for exploration.
Yerevan is known as the Pink City, the volcanic rock (tuff) iconic of its state buildings forming a fondant panorama around the city’s heart. Meanwhile, the verdant hills that cup the 13th capital of Armenia provide a setting that masks its many battle scars.
Shadowed by the fabled Mount Ararat, Armenia has long been a battleground between Muslim and Christian rule, resulting in the death of more than a million Armenians. By 1936, it was under Soviet rule, and by 1991, its independence brought economic collapse. Yerevan is in a new dawn: bolstered by its foray into technology and support from wealthy expats, the pride, passion, and persistence of its people run through the veins of the city.
A weekend in this manageable and safe city is easy to navigate alone or with company, and its big-hearted locals will leave you feeling the great hug of Yerevan long after you’ve left. Here’s how to spend 48 hours in this fascinating city.
Day One
Morning
Start out in Republic Square. When architect Alexander Tamanyan’s plans to create the perfect city came to fruition in the 1920s, ancient Yerevan was razed, making way for this jewel of his architectural vision. Though not wholly welcomed at the time, this transformation led to a pleasingly compact city center.
The sweep of pink neoclassical buildings around the square boasts impressively carved arches and stately colonnades. By dusk, crowds gather around jubilant fountains that tango to a mix of dreadful pop and more elevated works by Armenia’s leading composer, Khachaturian.
In bygone years, Republic Square was home to a statue of Lenin, which, after independence, was unceremoniously removed and stuffed into the courtyard of the History Museum of Armenia, where the decapitated torso remains.
Inside, the museum presents the world’s oldest shoe at 5,500 years – completely intact thanks to being sealed in a cave by a surplus of sheep dung. You’ll also find preserved wooden burial chariots, Goliath vases, a bronze-age model of the solar system, and giant phalluses arranged, with posthumous envy, in size order.
Afternoon
Linking Republic Square to Freedom Square is Northern Ave, home to the rotund Yerevan Opera Theatre. The Tamanyan-designed street didn’t open until 2007, following a cash injection from a wealthy expat. Lined with honey-hued buildings, luxury brands, and manicured topiary, it aims to welcome well-heeled travelers to Yerevan.
It’s along here you’ll find Tsirani, a great spot to feast like a king. Here, the dolmas (stuffed vine leaves), grilled meats, herbaceous salads, grilled trout, and local buttery cheeses should see you satiated. If not, its onsite bakery brings endless baskets of warm flatbreads to enjoy with plenty of velvety Armenian wines.
Late Afternoon
If you’re after a shot of soorj (coffee), then the Cascade area has plenty of cafes with a good reputation. During warmer months, it hosts outdoor concerts and, if you fancy a little alfresco dancing, locals help left-footed tourists giggle their way through the traditional Karin folk dance every last Friday of the month.
The Cascade itself is a giant white stairway with variegated terraces, connecting downtown Yerevan with its upper neighborhood. Inside is the Cafesjian Center for the Arts, housing indoor galleries featuring works by artists such as Marc Chagall.
Evening
Skip the ubiquitous Irish bars and raucous Russian clubs in favor of the more subdued ambiance of Yerevan’s first smoke-free nightclub, Eco Pub on Spendiaryan St. Alternatively, a short walk from the Opera Theatre leads you to The Club, a subterranean restaurant, bar, and café with giant cloud-like cushions to melt into.
Day Two
Morning
An early morning walk among Yerevan’s parks, dotted with cherry and apricot trees, should help clear the head before hitting the busy intersection of Mashtots Ave and Sarmen St. Dive into the innocuous-looking bookstores to find intricately carved shelves overlooked by gilded ceilings. A few minutes’ walk from here, nestled among mid-rise houses and wall murals, is the beautifully tiled façade of the 18th-century Blue Mosque – Armenia’s only active mosque. Its graceful white-washed interior and Islamic garden offer a calming antidote to the bustling city.
Lunch
On Teyran St, you will encounter delicious fast food, Armenian style. It’s a blessing for the indecisive as there’s only one item on the menu: zhingyalov hats (bread packed with fresh herbs). Wash it down with tan, a yogurt drink. Also here, with a quirky charm, is Tun Lahmajo, a restaurant adorned with rugs, ancient gramophones, and musical instruments.
Early Afternoon
To grasp an inescapable part of Armenia’s tumultuous past, take a short taxi ride to the Armenian Genocide Memorial & Museum, sited at the crook of the Hrazdan River. It provides a sobering insight into the mass killing of one million Armenians under the crumbling Ottoman Empire during World War I.
From here, you may want to choose something more light-hearted. Tasting tours around Yerevan Brandy Company (a drink said to have once delighted the palates of Winston Churchill and Agatha Christie) are offered daily at the distillery overlooking the Hrazdan Gorge.
Late Afternoon
Hail a taxi or hop on a marshrutka (minibus) to Arinj village and ask a local for directions to Levon’s house. Resident Tosya told her husband, Levon, to build a potato cellar. Twenty-three years later, he created a subterranean network of divine hallways, shrines, and twisting stairways using only hand tools. He passed away in 2008, and now Tosya runs tours. Those wishing to see any root vegetables will be disappointed.
A Final Farewell
For a last soirée in the city, wandering in and out of Yerevan’s cafes, wine bars, and restaurants won’t disappoint. While the local food is wonderful, Armenia’s taste for international cuisine is burgeoning, from Mexican to sushi. The city now also has its first microbrewery. Located on Aram St, Dargett offers a delightful apricot beer, making for a good place to say goodbye.
Making it Happen
Getting to and from the main Zvartnots International Airport by public transport can be an adventure. The most straightforward way to reach the heart of Yerevan is by taxi. To avoid being overcharged, consider preordering with taxoline or ggtaxi, or ask your hotel to arrange one for you – taking a taxi from the airport can cost you three times more. Airlines flying here from Europe include AirFrance, Lufthansa, and LOT – all require at least one stopover.
