Hokkaido is Japan’s northernmost prefecture and much of it is an unspoilt wilderness. Though the island accounts for 20% of the country’s area, it is home to only 5% of its population. In summer, Hokkaido is a land of forests, lakes, and meadows, but come winter, that landscape is covered in thick powder snow.
The island is transformed into a sullen-skied wonderland where soaring mountain peaks and bare-limbed trees populate an all-consuming carpet of white, surrounded by the icy blue sea.
World-class skiing in Niseko
The number one reason to come to Hokkaido in winter is Niseko, the island’s premier ski resort with what many ski enthusiasts claim is the best snow in the world. Fresh falls of soft powder snow occur pretty much every day here, making it ideal for beginners as the conditions help newbies improve quickly, while temperatures rarely drop below -5°C. Furthermore, the resort enjoys a long season, running from late November to early May, and is very international, minimizing language barriers for visitors.
Niseko comprises four interconnected towns and villages clustered around the eastern slopes of Niseko Annupuri mountain. Hirafu hosts most of the nightlife, while Annupuri, Niseko Village, and Hanazono offer a more tranquil atmosphere. The Green Leaf Niseko Village stands out as a lovely accommodation option—its gorgeous onsen (hot spring) set in a natural rock pool surrounded by pine trees is a particular highlight. It’s a sublime place to spend an icy winter night.
Further east, the town of Kutchan has decent restaurants and bars offering a true taste of Japanese culture, distinguishing the Niseko area from other ski destinations in Japan that can feel less authentically Japanese.
Snow sculptures in Sapporo
Hokkaido’s biggest city is Sapporo, well worth a visit any time of year for its top-notch dining, shopping, and nightlife. If you’re there in early February, plan your visit to coincide with the Sapporo Snow Festival. This festival started in 1950 when local teenagers built six snow statues in Ōdōri-kōen, the city’s main park. Walking from the Sapporo TV Tower, you’ll traverse the park, passing an artificial ski slope where skiers and snowboarders perform, food vendors selling noodles and hot wine, and stages hosting performances from choirs and girl bands. Around 11 February (National Foundation Day, marking the mythological founding of Japan in 660 BC), many attendees will proudly wave Japanese flags.
And of course, there are countless ice and snow sculptures: they range from anime characters and Star Wars tributes to colossal cups of noodle soup that release steam. One surprising sight at the 2019 festival was a grand ice sculpture of Helsinki Cathedral, commemorating 100 years of friendship between Finland and Japan.
Sapporo’s cuisine and atmosphere
After a chilly afternoon enjoying the sculptures, warming up over dinner at Sapporo Biergarten is delightful. Housed in a charming old brick factory, the house specialty is lamb you cook yourself at the table over a naked flame. You’re allowed as much food and the house beer as you can enjoy in 100 minutes, so you will likely leave feeling happy and satisfied.
While in town, consider staying at the Hotel Monterey Edelhof, a stylish accommodation inspired by late 19th-century Vienna.
Otaru’s sake and sushi
It’s worth venturing to the port of Otaru, which served as Hokkaido’s trading center in the early 20th century. Evidence of that wealth and power is visible today, with the canal lined with striking Western-style stone and brick buildings.
In February, the town celebrates a snow festival, during which the canal is beautifully illuminated. While you’re there, consider joining a tour of the Tanaka Sake Brewery to learn about the craft of Japanese rice wine production, followed by tastings in the shop. Additionally, visit local glassmaker Kitaichi Sangōkan to observe the glass-making process and purchase exquisite pieces. Given its coastal location, Otaru boasts outstanding seafood, making dining at Otaru Canal Restaurant Hikari an excellent choice for enjoying generous platters of fresh sushi and sashimi.
Whisky business in Nikka
Even if you’re not an avid whisky drinker, visiting the Nikka Whisky distillery in Yoichi is both fun and enlightening. Founded in 1934 by Masataka Taketsuru, who trained in Scotland, the distillery is perfectly located for whisky production due to Hokkaido’s air quality resembling that of Scotland. After an informative talk about the process, tour the lush grounds, which contain historic buildings and original equipment, including seven massive copper stills in the still house. A poignant section of the site honors Taketsuru’s Scottish wife, Rita, whose life was recently celebrated in a popular Japanese TV drama.
