You should go storm watching on Vancouver Island because…
The huge storms that roll in from the Pacific Ocean are simply spectacular. There’s nothing between Vancouver Island and Japan but open ocean, and every year from November through March, huge storms crash along the western coastline, bringing 30-foot swells and hurricane-force winds. On calmer days, intrepid surfers in wetsuits can be seen riding the waves.
Storm watching has been a popular off-season tourism attraction on the west coast of Vancouver Island since the 1990s, when hotelier Charles McDiarmid opened the Wickaninnish Inn in Tofino, with all rooms facing the sea. (Don’t worry: all the floor-to-ceiling windows are outfitted with hurricane-proof glass.)
On Vancouver Island, I stayed in…
Port Renfrew, more accessible than the better-known storm-watching destinations of Tofino and Ucluelet. Both cheaper and less remote than the alternatives, Port Renfrew is a two-hour drive from Nanaimo or Victoria, where most visitors arrive by ferry or plane. Port Renfrew and the surrounding lands sit on the ancestral homelands of the Pacheedaht First Nation.
The roads leading to Port Renfrew are paved, yet with plenty of twists and turns. It’s a beautiful drive – but if you’re prone to motion sickness, be forewarned. I recommend arriving before sunset because these roads can be tricky in the dark. At Wild Renfrew, I checked into a seaside viewpoint studio with my boyfriend, a Vancouver native who has been fishing and storm watching on Vancouver Island since he was a young boy.
Depending on how adventurous you want to be, you can do storm watching from indoors or outdoors. We tried both and discovered a uniquely Canadian version of hygge.
Storm watching on Vancouver Island is remarkably romantic because…
You’ll stay cozy and dry indoors as you look out at roaring wind and a steady deluge of rain. We loved our room’s heated floors, as, tucked into plush bamboo bathrobes, we watched the dramatic gray tempest raging outdoors. Storm watching can be as active or passive as you wish, and I felt safe snuggled in my boyfriend’s strong arms no matter how stormy the weather outside.
Our seaside studio came equipped with an outdoor hot tub, which we definitely took advantage of. The combination of cold raindrops falling on our faces as we floated warmly with plastic glasses of wine in hand felt incredibly luxurious.
For eating options on Vancouver Island, we recommend…
Stocking up on snacks and eating at your accommodation. Port Renfrew is really remote: you can’t exactly order food delivery, and there are no great options for stores close by. So I stocked up at local markets on the drive in. Vancouver Island also has a number of excellent cheesemakers, whose products pair wonderfully with local crispbread.
Restaurant-wise, there are only a couple of options in town; Renfrew Pub is your best bet for seafood chowder, burgers, poutine, and fish-and-chips made with local rock cod, all washed down with different craft beers on tap. When the storms arrive, however, be sure your room is well stocked, as you won’t want to go outside.
You shouldn’t visit Vancouver Island without packing…
A rain jacket and a solid pair of rain boots or waterproof shoes. You don’t need any special equipment or skills for storm watching, but considering the amount of rain coming down, these are crucial wardrobe necessities. Fortunately, there are many good options available that keep your feet dry even as you explore the rocky beach.
If you need to connect to the outside world on Vancouver Island…
You should expect to be out of luck. There’s no cell service here, and wi-fi can be spotty during a superstorm. Consider this an excellent opportunity to read, play board games, or enjoy deep conversations with your travel companions. The powerful storms remind us of how seemingly inconsequential our individual lives are in the grand scope of the universe and nature.
Keep your eyes peeled for harbor seals, sea lions, orcas, otters, and Pacific gray whales on the water. In the summer, Port Renfrew is known for world-class halibut and salmon fishing. The area also offers beautiful places nearby to explore, including Botanical Beach at low tide.
As you plan your trip to Vancouver Island, you should…
Expect the unexpected, weather-wise. Vancouver Island’s west coast is one of the wettest places in North America – so if you stay for a few days, chances are high that you’ll experience the stormy weather the region is known for. However, these storms are as unpredictable as any other natural phenomenon.
You’ll definitely want to review the forecast before your trip. If the weather seems severe, it’s best to stay indoors and view the storm safely from your window. It’s important to stay informed about road conditions, especially during winter months, to ensure a safe travel experience.
