It is the enduring inquiry when considering a winter mountain retreat in Colorado: Should one succumb to the allure and proceed directly to Aspen, or should one embrace the serene opulence found in Vail? Nevertheless, both destinations are remarkable.
These idyllic resorts offer exquisite dining, unmatched vistas, and activities designed to fulfill diverse preferences. The plethora of adventure possibilities in these vibrant mountain towns is indeed overwhelming. Thus, the question arises: which is the quintessential winter wonderland? In response, two of our contributors extol the virtues of each location to assist in your decision-making process.
All hail Vail: A perfect winter getaway
While GoTravelDaily’s senior director of content Laura Motta has spent fifteen years traveling and writing about various locales, she is relatively new to winter retreats and snow sports, despite her New England upbringing. However, Vail won her heart instantly.
You’re familiar with the themes in Hallmark holiday films: The big-city protagonist encounters a disheveled, appealing local. Amusing events occur, culminating in a kiss with plans of opening a holiday-themed lodge or a Christmas tree farm. The backdrops of these narratives resemble fantasy towns, complete with vintage streetlights, holiday decorations, and illuminated trees throughout the plazas.
However, here’s the compelling reality – during the festive season, Vail, Colorado, truly embodies this imagery. It is not a contrived or clichéd representation, but rather an authentic portrayal. If you are seeking Swiss-chalet-style architecture, charming covered bridges, outdoor skating rinks, and breathtaking mountain vistas, Vail has it all and more. No scripted drama could rival the genuine allure of Vail. This destination opened my eyes to winter travel and the charm of mountain resorts any time of year.
It works for skiers and non-skiers alike
One may indulge in the ambiance reminiscent of those Hallmark films, while also enjoying skiing opportunities. Skiers navigating Vail Village with their equipment are a common sight, which is hardly surprising since the lifts are conveniently located in the town’s largely car-free center. Many of Vail’s premier resort hotels, such as the Sonnenalp, The Sebastian, and the Four Seasons, are within walking distance, although they willingly provide transport for skiers.
Upon skiing down the mountain, one can seamlessly return to the bustling center. Indeed, stepping off your skis places you mere steps away from numerous outstanding pubs and restaurants. A highlighted establishment is the rustic Red Lion, known for its generous servings of pub classics, including their renowned nachos. Meanwhile, El Segundo offers hearty, uncomplicated Mexican cuisine, with their pozole (meat and hominy stew) serving as a delightful way to warm up.
Lionshead Village, Vail’s second resort center situated to the west, boasts an additional central lift and a more relaxed atmosphere. Complimentary and frequent shuttles connect these two villages, simplifying mobility without the necessity for a car. A leisurely walk between the two hubs takes approximately 15 minutes.
Even if skiing is not on your agenda, or you are merely accompanying someone who is, there exists plenty to appreciate. Vail’s après-ski offerings are notably varied, and almost every dining establishment and hotel bar includes an afternoon menu. Favorites include King’s Club at the Sonnenalp, which presents hot chocolate adorned with a generous helping of whipped cream; the sophisticated, chandelier-adorned Slope Room known for its exceptional beverage selection; and The Gambit Bar at The Sebastian, which serves one of my preferred cocktails, the smoked cherry old fashioned.
Beyond serving as culinary hubs and social gathering spots, the resorts and surrounding areas offer excellent opportunities for non-skiers to spend their time enjoying spa services, exploring independent shops, and relaxing in heated swimming pools. Furthermore, inviting fireplace corners are plentiful throughout Vail, with my personal favorite being located in the lobby of the Sonnenalp.
It’s sophisticated without any fuss
Vail embodies the essence of understated opulence – it is a luxurious retreat that feels at times almost charmingly quaint. The town sincerely adopts its European aesthetic, featuring soft pretzels and fondue on local menus; however, one should not be misled into believing they have been transported to a Bavarian enclave. A glance at hotel prices during holiday seasons will swiftly disprove that notion.
This unique dynamic largely contributes to Vail’s enchantment. Despite elevated prices, service remains exceptional, hotel features and dining experiences are world-class, and the views are breathtaking. Yet, Vail does not exude an air of exclusivity or pretension that one might typically expect in high-end locales.
The dining experiences at The Four Seasons embody Vail’s luxurious-yet-down-to-earth philosophy. I particularly recommend The Remedy, ideal for lunch or a quick dinner, featuring tables with views overlooking the inviting all-season swimming pool. Anticipate making reservations during the festive period and busy weekends, as these spots tend to become fully booked rather quickly.
The Sonnenalp, established over 50 years ago, wholeheartedly embraces its traditional design, contributing to the old-world charm that Vail is known for. Its cozy rooms reflect an ultra-traditional aesthetic adorned in natural wood and joyful plaids. Yet, the true luxury lies in the attentive service, heated flooring, and in-room fireplaces.
Regardless of modern versus vintage styles, Vail excels in high-end hospitality, making visitors perhaps feel as if they’re the protagonists in their own cinematic narratives.
Why Aspen is the best mountain town in Colorado
Journalist Sarah Kuta has resided in Colorado for over a decade. During this time, she has explored nearly every corner of the state, particularly its mountain towns. She is an enthusiastic skier, hiker, mountain biker, culinary enthusiast, and an aficionado of the arts and culture that the Rockies offer.
Do not misunderstand me; I have great fondness for Vail (a frequent visitor). However, Aspen is the Colorado mountain town I find myself revisiting repeatedly.
Aspen has garnered a reputation as a sophisticated playground for the affluent, and this image is not entirely unwarranted. The median home price in July 2024 was an astonishing $3.3 million, translating to $2500 per square foot. Nonetheless, while Aspen does cater to a wealthier demographic (including many second or even third homeowners), it possesses a grounded charm that may surprise you.
During my interactions with residents who live and work in Aspen year-round, I have found them to be genuine, industrious, considerate, and engaging, devoid of any pretentiousness or snobbery.
Furthermore, the inhabitants of Aspen generously share their town with visitors, offering an array of complimentary activities, from 55 miles of cross-country skiing and snowshoeing trails to a premier contemporary art museum, well-preserved historical landmarks, and public art installations.
A multitude of public bus routes are also free, and visitors can cycle around town at no cost, thanks to the local WE-cycle bike-share program, offering unlimited free rides up to 30 minutes each.
Aspen has history and character
Another aspect that endears me to Aspen is its rich and captivating history. I have learned much about the city’s origins through the efforts of the Aspen Historical Society, a remarkable nonprofit dedicated to offering tours, managing historical properties, hosting exhibitions, and more.
Originally inhabited by the Northern Ute (“Nuche”) people, Aspen transformed into a booming town during the 1880s as silver miners flocked to the area seeking fortune. Many achieved success, establishing it as a bustling mining hub until the collapse of the silver market in 1893. Consequently, during its “quiet years,” Aspen reverted to a small farming and ranching community.
Aspen experienced a revival following World War II, when industrialist Walter Paepcke, persuaded by his wife, began significant investments in the town. The Paepckes aspired to establish Aspen as a premier destination for winter sports and the arts, and by all accounts, they achieved this goal. Presently, Aspen and its neighbor Snowmass constitute one of the most renowned ski destinations globally.
This rich history lends Aspen a distinct character and charm. It is not a mass-produced ski resort; rather, it evolved organically without the deliberate intent to attract tourists. Visitors can discover historic structures over a century old, such as the Hotel Jerome and the Wheeler Opera House, both constructed in 1889. These establishments have been diligently preserved and thoughtfully restored over the decades, reflecting the community’s commitment to safeguarding Aspen’s heritage.
Over the years, Aspen’s crisp air and stunning peaks have drawn numerous celebrities and influential figures, from pioneering journalist Hunter S Thompson to singer-songwriter John Denver. They were captivated by Aspen’s pristine nature and idyllic scenery, which continues to attract visitors to this day.
I appreciate walking in the footsteps of individuals from diverse eras, providing an authentic connection to the past within Aspen. For instance, during World War II, the famed “skiing soldiers” of the 10th Mountain Division at Camp Hale enjoyed bourbon-spiked milkshakes here, a drink they referred to as “Aspen crud,” at the J-Bar inside the Hotel Jerome.
Subsequently, in the 1970s, the J-Bar became Hunter S Thompson’s unofficial “workspace” during his unsuccessful campaign for the position of Pitkin County sheriff. The J-Bar remains operational today, where patrons can still order an Aspen crud – and it has not become a tourist trap; local residents frequently gather there.
Aspen has an incredible arts and culture scene
Aspen is widely recognized for its plethora of outdoor activities, including hiking, mountain biking, road cycling, fly-fishing, skiing, snowshoeing, cross-country skiing, snowboarding, rafting, and numerous others.
However, some visitors tend to overlook the city’s vibrant arts and cultural offerings, many of which are accessible at little to no cost. For those less inclined towards outdoor adventures, Aspen provides an abundance of engaging activities. Conversely, for those fond of outdoor pursuits, there are ample opportunities to diversify your itinerary.
The Aspen Art Museum presents rotating exhibits of contemporary art, while the John Denver Sanctuary serves as a tranquil riverside locale for reflection on Denver’s lyrical musings. Additionally, the Aspen Music Festival and School has spotlighted classical music for 75 years.
Aspen has recently inaugurated a museum dedicated to Bauhaus artist Herbert Bayer, located on a meticulously designed 40-acre campus that Bayer developed between 1946 and 1974. The esteemed 135-year-old Wheeler Opera House hosts a variety of festivals, concerts, and performances year-round, complementing the offerings from Theatre Aspen, known for its summer plays and musicals. Furthermore, Belly Up Aspen is an intimate venue that attracts top performers, ranging from Snoop Dogg to The Killers, and Joe Walsh.
The annual Aspen Ideas Festival invites scholars and experts from different fields to discuss significant global issues. Nearby, Mad Dog Ranch and Studios operates as a popular recording studio with notable historical ties to Jimmy Buffett and Glenn Frey of the Eagles. Founded in 1966, the Anderson Ranch Arts Center features a substantial outdoor sculpture garden and regularly offers workshops and artist residencies.
Moreover, Aspen’s culinary scene is regarded as an art form, with chefs such as Barclay Dodge leading the way. Dodge operates Bosq, an elegant dining establishment that received a Michelin star upon the guide’s inaugural visit to Colorado in 2023. The culinary team at Bosq often sources ingredients locally, allowing diners to truly savor the essence of Aspen.
My affection for Aspen is boundless; with each visit, I discover newfound delights! Choosing a mountain town in Colorado for a holiday is generally a sound choice, yet if I were to endorse one particular location, Aspen would undoubtedly be my top recommendation.
This article was first published on Oct 23, 2024, and updated on Oct 25, 2024.
