Makati, one of Metro Manila’s 16 bustling cities, has more selfie-takers per capita than any city on the planet. Officially deemed the selfie capital of the world, it’s also a lively city of night and weekend markets, vibrant local theaters, and an engaging art scene.
At the city’s fringes, roadside eateries that open up to passing pedicabs and jeepneys abound. A buzzing subculture champions an independently run dining, drinking, and retail scene—reshaping old-town and red-light districts into hip, local neighborhoods. Ready for a quick tour? Consider this offbeat guide to Makati.
At first blush, Makati nests a premiere business district, and by extension its high-rises, five-star hotels, and upscale lifestyle centers. At the city’s fringes, and perhaps its soul, is the rich art scene, old town pedicabs (cycle rickshaws), and roadside eateries, alongside a dynamic subculture that champions independently run dining, drinking, and retail experiences, turning old-town and red-light districts into hip, small-establishment-driven neighborhoods.
Mornings at the Local Weekend Market
Makati has two park-operated, pop-up markets that have reliably set up shop between 7 AM and 2 PM every weekend for over a decade. Saturday is hosted by Salcedo Market (nestled in Jaime C. Velasquez Park, Salcedo Village), while Sundays belong to Legazpi Market (at the corner of Herrera and Rufino Sts., Legazpi Village). Both markets offer an exciting array of fresh produce, cooked local and world cuisines, as well as artisanal home and personal products. These handmade goods include coconut kefir, cane sugar drinks, and sticky rice cakes in pork blood stew (puto dinuguan). You can also find abaca-woven bags, Tillandsia air plants, and upcycled bottle lamps.
Soak in the Multi-Activity Eccentricities of Makati Central Square
Makati Central Square was formerly called Makati Cinema Square because the cinema was the mall’s main feature in its heyday circa the 1980s. Now it’s a kitschy shopping center that houses a curious mix of shops, attracting a following despite being dwarfed by upscale neighboring malls. Inside: an experimental-art theater, a 42-lane bowling alley and billiard center, a guns-and-ammo store, art galleries and an art supply shop, several thrift-clothing stores, a vinyl record emporium, and inexpensive dining joints with loyal patrons. At one point, a local wrestling group established a hub here; on occasion, casting calls and commercial auditions line up around its upper floors.
Schedule an Art Crawl Along Chino Roces Avenue
In case you aren’t in town for two of Makati’s public art events (Art Fair Philippines in February and Art in the Park in March), taking multiple stops to see the diverse contemporary art galleries scattered across this 5 km stretch of road might compensate for the missed experience.
Start at Silverlens. One of the city’s first galleries, it’s an expansive two-story multi-disciplinary art space that was once a smaller photographic art studio when it opened in 2004. Next, move to Karrivin Plaza. Home to 1335 Mabini, Art Informal, and The Drawing Room—showrooms that sit inside a trendy design and dining hub.
If you’re seeking more experimental, punk and art-pop pieces, La Fuerza Plaza and its five galleries—Nova, Finale Art File, Vinyl on Vinyl, J Studio, and Archivo1984—have you covered. Relatively smaller but established spaces Kanto, Eskinita, and Underground (galleries tucked in the kitschy Makati Central Square) round up Chino Roces Avenue’s notable art stops.
Visit an Offbeat Gotohan (Beef-Tripe-Porridge Joint) in the Old Town District
Bangkal District is just a train-tracks-cross away from the posh Ayala district to ‘Old Makati,’ locally famous for its budget-friendly furniture finds. If you’re in the mood for a food adventure, and if you happen to appreciate puns, that’s two excellent reasons to visit Goto Lechon Know.
It’s an eight-table joint that opens up roadside to passing jeepneys. Try savoring a hot bowl of beef-tripe porridge (goto) topped with chives, atsuete (the local annatto fruit), and hard-boiled egg. Goto Lechon Know’s tiny but dynamic kitchen periodically opens its doors to visiting foreign and local artists who guest-cook for a night.
See a Stage Show at the Neighborhood Theaters
Greenbelt may be a premier mall known for its designer retail stores, but tucked on the second floor of Greenbelt 1, a.k.a. ‘old Greenbelt,’ is OnStage. The 800-seater theater stages Repertory Philippines’ original and adapted plays, which range from classic wizard of Oz performances to musicals about the life of the Philippines’ first President Emilio Aguinaldo.
A 15-minute walk from Greenbelt to Ayala RCBC plaza leads you to the relatively smaller, 450-seater Carlos P. Romulo Auditorium. It hosts Atlantis Production’s stage shows, including contemporary plays such as the Harry Potter parody Potted Potter and the Tony-Award-winning play Angels in America.
Do an Abridged Poblacion Crawl
Poblacion’s hip drinking and dining spots might require an exhaustive list altogether, however, an alcohol-fueled view of the city at night from a six-story rooftop deck might be one of the backpacker-friendly neighborhood’s highlights. Z Hostel features a bar and DJ deck for the livelier crowd, along with sunset sessions that showcase an orange skyline and complimentary cocktails for those desiring relaxing conversations.
Next door, ethnic-inspired interiors, local craft beers, and numerous Pinoy-flavored bar chow and dining experiences can be found at Filipino pub Alamat (myth or folktale).
Further out along Palma St., a stop at the creative space and retail hub Pineapple Lab surprises with Fringe festival events that promote free-to-the-public productions and market pop-ups advocating an alternative gift economy. Additionally, you will discover charmingly unique items at its resident vintage shop Glorious Dias (named after Miss Universe Philippines 1969, Gloria Diaz).
Take a Nightcap (or Another Drink) at a Quiet-Neighborhood ‘Coffee Shop’
If you’re having trouble spotting the whiskey section and dimly lit bar that contrasts the sunny disposition of its bartenders and wait staff, that’s because The Curator appears, at first glance, as a quaint coffee shop at the corner of Palanca and Legazpi Street (a mere 5-minute walk from the Greenbelt complex). The speakeasy opens prohibition-style to an inviting back room with a full-service bar and jazz music playing in the background. On the menu, try craft cocktails and assorted spirits that earned The Curator a spot in Asia’s 50 Best Bars (the only bar in the Philippines to make the list). Up front lies the brighter-lit café where you can order house-made horchata, signature espressos, and pastries.
Shop from Indie Stores and Smaller Brands
Makati’s supermalls may be inescapable, but the city’s independently run retail scene is arguably more exciting. Consider Aphro Living: a home and design store that resembles an arthouse playground (the built-in slide beside the display-shelf stairs likely gives it away).
Streetwear has gained such a cult following in the city that Makati hosts two of its most recognizable advocates. Suez and Zapote, named after its corner streets address, is a retail shop housing pioneering brands like Team Manila and the Daily Grind. Purveyr Post in Bangkal and Poblacion encompasses over 50 brands across their two locations, providing a dedicated space for local streetwear supporters. They also host bi-annual pop-up events showcasing over 80 independently owned and designed clothing items from Makati and beyond.
