Exploring New Zealand’s South Island: A Road Trip Adventure

Encountering Truffles

“Good girl, Rosie! That’s a good girl,” exclaims my host, Gareth Renowden. The godfather of New Zealand truffles is walking me through his farm, Limestone Hills, overlooking the Waipara River. He is speaking to his seven-year-old beagle, nicknamed “The Truffle Machine.” Despite the distractions of a ripe autumn afternoon, she successfully delivers on her promise.

Renowden bends down where Rosie’s nose touches the earth, uncovering a bulbous, jet-black truffle. He sizes it up before handing it to me. Along with his wife, the British expat runs The Shearer’s Cottage. This cozy two-bedroom bungalow overlooks the vineyard and is occasionally available for rental by special arrangement.

“What you’ve got there is Tuber Brumale,” he explains, referring to the winter black truffle. “It has a distinct aroma, but if you’re not experienced, you might be disappointed.” I am ready to take my chances. Renowden packages my truffle, wrapping it in paper towel and sealing it in a plastic container before sending me off.

Staying at Kaikoura’s Hapuku Lodge

About forty miles south, I rent a car at the Christchurch Airport. My mission was straightforward: a road trip covering 1,125 miles across New Zealand’s South Island in seven days. Due to the country’s relaxed “freedom camping” laws, many opt to rent camper vans, but I aimed for more upscale accommodations.

I find my upscale escape two hours later in Kaikoura at the Hapuku Lodge. This unique lodge offers standalone rooms elevated 32 feet into the forest canopy, combining luxury with childhood treehouse nostalgia. From my bubble bath, I observe the sky transform over the 9,500-foot peak of Tapuae-o-Uenuku, painted in soft pink and purple hues.

Tasting the Local Wines

Later, I meet with Fiona Read, Hapuku’s co-owner and executive chef. Rumors of my truffle have reached her, and when I open the lid of my plastic container, a garlicky aroma wafts into the air. Within minutes, the truffle is prepared in a delectable dish featuring thin shavings placed atop crostini, garnished with parsley and topped with fried scrambled yolk, all paired with a supple Pinot Noir from the Central Otago region.

The next day, I embark on a three-hour whale watching tour off Kaikoura’s coast, witnessing a variety of marine mammals. This unforgettable experience, including orcas and sperm whales, typically would be a highlight anywhere else. However, in New Zealand, the day has only begun.

Discovering the Marlborough Lodge

An hour and a half up the highway, I stop at Tohu Wines in Marlborough, visiting the world’s first Māori-owned winery. There, I taste the excellent 2018 vintage wine paired with local green-lipped mussels, creating an authentic New Zealand experience.

As evening approaches, I arrive at the Marlborough Lodge—a Victorian estate nestled on the outskirts of Blenheim, known for its blend of 19th-century charm and modern luxury.

Helicopter Tour of Milford Sound

Before concluding my journey, I am tempted by Glacier Southern Lakes Helicopters, offering a breathtaking approach to the majestic Milford Sound. Driving to this stunning destination would take at least four hours, but a helicopter ride condenses this to 90 minutes, making it an unmissable opportunity.

I pull into Matakauri Lodge, a Relais and Chateaux property overlooking Lake Wakatipu. As I enjoy a magnificent dinner with the stunning Remarkables as a backdrop, I reflect on the adventure that has filled my days in New Zealand’s incredible landscapes.