Summary
Provence is a cherished region in France, known for its breathtaking landscapes, delightful locals, and delectable wines. The area boasts a favorable climate, with scenic views that captivate visitors who long to experience the essence of the French countryside.
Location
The modern Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur is divided into six departments: Bouches du Rhone, Var, Alpes Maritimes, Vaucluse, Alpes de Haute Provence, and Hautes Alpes. However, traditional Provence is slightly smaller. To reach it, one must exclude the Hautes Alpes, the northern part of Vaucluse above the Luberon, and the portion of Alpes-Maritimes east of Nice.
The departments typically associated with Provence are the southern Vaucluse and Bouches du Rhone, which are bordered on the west by the Rhône River. Consequently, these two areas are what tourists often envision when they think of Provence.
Interestingly, Peter Mayle’s books reference Provence but primarily discuss a part of it—the Luberon, mainly situated in Vaucluse. The Luberon features a mountain range serving as a climate barrier between the warm Mediterranean climate and the cooler alpine influences from the north. Thus, many consider the Luberon to embody the heart of “real” Provence.
The most desirable regions in Provence are found in the triangle formed by Avignon, Arles, and Salon de Provence. Here, travelers can explore quaint towns and discover charming hotels, especially during the off-season.
- Arles – This town, once bustling with Greek and Roman influence, showcases remarkable sites like the well-preserved theater and amphitheater. Van Gogh famously created art during his time here.
- Avignon – Spend a day in this stunning city and visit the Palais des Papes. Parking outside the gates across the Rhône is manageable, allowing visitors easy access.
- Camargue – Discover a unique side of France characterized by cowboys, bulls, and exceptional birdlife in the picturesque salt marshes.
- St. Remy de Provence – Founded by the Romans, this city features the Ancient Monastère de St-Paul-de-Mausole, the hospital where Van Gogh was treated. It is also the birthplace of Nostradamus.
- Les Baux-de-Provence – A village rising from old quarries, famous for its Sound and Light extravaganza, Carrières de Lumières.
- Orange – Known for its well-preserved Roman ruins, including a notable theater and arch situated just north of Avignon.
- Marseille – Often overlooked, this city has undergone significant revitalization, making it quite appealing.
Note: The Pont du Gard is located between Orange and Nîmes, accessible from the A9 and worth a visit if you have a car.
Weather and Climate
Provence generally experiences dry summers and cool, wet winters. The months of May, June, and September present ideal conditions for traveling. June and July can be quite warm, yet September quickly ushers in comfortable temperatures. Typically, spring experiences less rain compared to fall, and although summers are not extreme, expect crowds in July and August.
Airports
Marseille Provence Airport, situated north of Marseille, serves as the primary airport in Provence. Additionally, Nice-Côte d’Azur (NCE) Airport is another viable option for travelers.
Places to Stay
Hotel Les Magnanarelles, located in Maussane les Alpilles south of St. Remy, provides reasonable rates although the decor may not be as charming as other options in the area. For a tranquil stay, opt for a room by the pool. Prices are approximately 60 Euros per night, in a region renowned for its high-quality French olive oil and convenient access to discussed attractions.
Provence’s charming towns are ideal for exploring by car, making it a preferred destination for rural self-catering trips. For accommodation, a variety of vacation rentals exist, amplifying opportunities to fully engage with the stunning surroundings.
Tours
For those who prefer not to drive or handle planning logistics themselves, coach tours are available to explore the highlights of Provence. Options include offerings from businesses like Viator, Provence Escapes, and The Luberon Experience, which cater to smaller, intimate groups.
Avignon
Avignon stands within 800-year-old stone walls near the Rhône river, primarily known for the Palais des Papes. This remarkable palace, the largest Gothic structure worldwide, emanates both austerity and grandeur.
Additionally, Avignon is home to several UNESCO World Heritage Sites, notably the 12th-century Saint-Bénézet bridge, affectionately known as the Avignon Bridge.
After touring the palace, visitors might appreciate unwinding in one of Avignon’s lively cafes, savoring a glass of Tavel or Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Avignon provides a delightful retreat, recommended for several days of exploration. The city is accessible via the fast TGV train from Paris, with rental cars available at various sites including the Avignon TGV station and airport.
Arles
Known for its Roman arena, Arles offers a rich history alongside a charming atmosphere. Visitors will find the 4th-century Baths of Constantine near the Rhône and a vibrant Saturday market that showcases the region’s local culture.
With railway access, Arles is easily reachable without the need for a car, making it a superb destination for exploration.
Abbaye di Montmajour
Located just outside of Arles, the Abbey of Montmajour is rich in history, having started as a fortified Benedictine monastery between the 10th and 18th centuries. Visitors can climb the 14th-century Tower of Abbot Pons de l’Orme for stunning countryside views and learn about its fascinating past.
Not far from the Abbey, the Chapel of the Holy Cross showcases exceptional Romanesque architecture. An audio tour is recommended to fully enjoy the many exhibits within the Abbey complex.
The Camargue
The picturesque Camargue region is known for its rich and fertile delta landscape, prime for exploration, especially with children. French cowboys, known as gardians, manage Camargue cattle in this unique ecosystem. Additionally, the Parc Ornithologique serves as a sanctuary for diverse birds, particularly flamingoes.
For an immersive experience, consider horseback riding through the countryside, allowing for a closer relationship with this stunning region.
Saint Remy
Saint Remy de Provence is a haven for walkers, where the landscapes famously depicted in Van Gogh’s artwork await. Highlights include delicious local cuisine and a visit to the Saint-Paul asylum, where Van Gogh spent his final days. The town also features a range of cafes and restaurants that reflect Provence’s inviting atmosphere.
