Writer Baia Dzagnidze was born and raised in Tbilisi, Georgia. Apart from studying in Prague for four years, she has spent most of her life in this charming city. Even though she is a local, it took her years to discover the perfect walking routes to the main landmarks and find the best places to hang out. Here’s her insightful guide to the Georgian capital.
The best way to see Tbilisi… is on foot. Tbilisi is a highly walkable city with famous landmarks situated close to each other. Walking through its streets, main avenues, and hidden alleys allows you to discover new places, notice intriguing details, and experience the vibrant local lifestyle.
When I’m up for a big night out… my friends and I usually start at open-air bars like Bauhaus or Dedaena when the weather is warm. Drinks are affordable, and the music is lively, making it one of the best places to pre-party. After a couple of beers, we either stay or move to clubs like Bassiani, KHIDI, or Mtkvarze to dance until dawn. Tbilisi nightlife is incredibly diverse, offering many venues to suit your preferences.
One must-do unique experience in Tbilisi… is to visit a sulphur bath. This natural thermal water ranges from 40–50°C (104–122°F), making it an extremely relaxing and therapeutic experience, especially during the colder months. Try either Chreli Abano (also known as Orbeliani), Gulo’s, or Queen’s sulphur baths. Prices start from 40 GEL for a two-person room.
On a rainy day in Tbilisi… visiting galleries or museums along Rustaveli Ave is highly recommended. Art lovers should definitely check out the National Gallery to admire works by local artists like Lado Gudiashvili, Niko Pirosmani, and David Kakabadze. The Georgian Museum of Fine Arts showcases over 3500 works by 80 local artists. For those interested in Soviet-era history, the Soviet Occupation Hall in the Georgian National Museum is a must-visit, featuring striking works by ancient Georgian goldsmiths in the Archeological Treasury Hall.
On a sunny day… you’ll find me strolling down the picturesque streets of Tbilisi, capturing the moment with my camera, or enjoying the numerous green spaces. My favorite parks include Vake Park and the newly renovated Vaso Godziashvili’s Red Garden for a pleasant walk with my dog, Louie. On warmer days, my friends and I enjoy spending time at Lisi Lake, either having delightful picnics or taking calming strolls around the water’s edge.
When I have friends in town… I take them to explore the main sights of the Old Town first, before introducing them to more local and hidden gems. We typically start from Pushkin Park at Freedom Square to see the remnants of the old wall. We continue to Narikala Fortress via a cable car for breathtaking views over Abanotubani and Rike Park. Then, we meander down through narrow cobblestone streets, admiring the distinctive carved wooden balconies and charming courtyards typical of Georgian architecture.
When visitors want to have a cultural night out… I always recommend attending Welcome to Georgia – The Musical, even if they aren’t huge fans of musicals. It’s entertaining while providing a great insight into Georgian customs, traditions, and hospitality. For a unique experience, try Gabriadze’s Theatre, which features puppetry addressing significant political and historical topics. Keep in mind that tickets often sell out quickly, so act fast to secure them once your travel dates are set.
For cheap eats… I love going to Mapshalia, a quirky semi-basement restaurant that serves delicious Megrelian cuisine at budget-friendly prices. My go-to dish is elarji, made with grits and local mozzarella-like cheese, topped with a savory chicken stew prepared in a walnut sauce called kharcho. If I’m in the mood for our traditional meat dumplings (khinkali), my two go-to spots are Zodiaqo and Klike’s Khinkali.
Must-do festivals in Tbilisi are… the annual New Wine Festival held in May, and the Art-Gene folk festival in July. The one-day wine festival features both small and large entrepreneurs showcasing wines made from the latest vintage season. Admission is free, and you can participate in tastings. You also have the option to purchase a festival-branded glass as a keepsake. The week-long Art-Gene festival, taking place at the Open-Air Museum of Ethnography, presents the cultural heritage of Georgia with folk songs, dances, and artisan crafts from various regions.
One thing I love about Tbilisi is… the striking contrast of old and new, showcasing a seamless blend of European and Asian influences in culture, history, cuisine, and architecture.
