Discovering Tierra del Fuego: A One-Week Adventure

Travel to the terminus of the Andes, and you’ve truly reached the end of the world once you set foot on Tierra del Fuego, a mythical land of fire and ice marooned off the southern tip of South America. Splitting between Chile and Argentina, visiting both sides of Tierra del Fuego has never been easier, allowing you to embark on an epic journey through forgotten fjords, crackling glaciers, windswept pampa, and brooding evergreen forests. Here’s how to make the most of your week-long adventure.

Day One: Arrival in Ushuaia

Malvinas Argentinas International Airport in Ushuaia serves as the main commercial airport on Tierra del Fuego, making it an excellent starting point for your adventure. With at least two daily flights from Buenos Aires, reaching this salty port town is convenient. Although Ushuaia may seem rough around the edges, its well-developed tourism industry provides all the comforts of home, including delicious Patagonian wine and fire-cooked lamb.

Ushuaia acts as the base for 90% of the world’s cruises to Antarctica each summer (Nov-Mar). The town transforms into a winter wonderland come June, attracting skiers, snowmobilers, snowshoers, and dog-sledders to its powdery hills and river valleys. Immerse yourself in the rich history of this unlikely outpost by visiting the Museo Maritimo y del Presidio, a museum located within the cellblocks of the old National Prison.

Day Two: Adventure in Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego

The charming Tren del Fin de Mundo is an old logging train that now transports tourists on a scenic 7 km journey to the enchanting lenga forests and peat bogs of Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego. The serene waters of Lapataia Bay are perfect for a morning canoe trip, where you can paddle alongside a variety of seabirds, including cormorants and petrels.

In the afternoon, enjoy more wildlife on a catamaran ride down the Beagle Channel, one of the three navigable passages between the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans. The nutrient-rich waters host sea lions, whale species, and a colony of orange-beaked gentoo penguins on Isla Martillo. Piratour is the only company permitted to land on this island.

Day Three: Exploring the Huashuaca Valley

As you cross through the glacier-capped Andes and skirt the breathtaking Lago Fagnano, you’ll reach the golden grasses of Tierra del Fuego’s sleepy interior. The town of Tolhuin, located on the lake’s edge, serves as a fantastic base for off-roading adventures. Don’t forget to visit Panadería La Unión, a famous pastry shop known for its empanadas and alfajores (cookie sandwiches), adorned with photos of its illustrious visitors.

Head north to discover the lonely lighthouse of Cabo San Pablo, overlooking a sandy beach with the rusting carcass of the Desdémona shipwreck. On your return to Tolhuin, stop at Garibaldi Cerveza Artesanal to pick up some hop-heavy craft brews, and consider staying overnight at Hostería Kaikén, the only remaining refuge built by the government in the 1960s for early pioneers.

Day Four: Crossing to Chile

Prepare to be amazed as you cross into the Chilean side at Paso Bellavista. With fewer than 7,000 inhabitants, this region represents the final frontier of the Americas. To truly appreciate its wild charms, visit Karukinka Natural Park, a stunning 300,000-hectare reserve owned by the Wildlife Conservation Society. Here, you might spot culpeo foxes, guanacos, and tuco-tucos as you hike the 7 km Cerro Pietro Grande trail for panoramic views of the island.

Day Five: King Penguins of Bahía Inútil

Continue your journey northward until you reach the rocky shores of Bahía Inútil, home to Parque Pingüino Rey, which boasts the only king penguin colony outside the Sub-Antarctic islands. The colony evolved from a group of eight lost penguins that washed up on a private estancia in 2010, now flourishing to nearly 100 individuals. Enjoy viewing these waddling creatures from specially designed viewing platforms.

Next, follow the coast westward toward the pint-sized capital of Chilean Tierra del Fuego, Porvenir, where you can catch the afternoon ferry across the Strait of Magellan. Spend the night in the bustling port city of Punta Arenas, renowned for its delectable king crab.

Day Six: Exploring Fuerte Bulnes

One hour south of Punta Arenas, you’ll find Fuerte Bulnes, a reconstructed fort narrating the tale of Chile’s early attempts at colonization. The fort lies within Parque del Estrecho de Magallanes, complete with a sleek visitor center offering insights into the motivations of settlers and the struggles of indigenous inhabitants.

Nearby, you’ll find the boarding point for Expedicion Fitz Roy, a small expedition vessel that explores the remote corners of the Tierra del Fuego archipelago. Much of Chilean Tierra del Fuego encompasses deserted islands and foggy fjords, only best explored by water. Set sail toward the towering cross atop Cape Froward — the southernmost point of mainland South America — and wake up in the breathtaking Parque Nacional Alberto de Agostini.

Day Seven: Whale Watching and Glacier Exploration

Spend your final day in Tierra del Fuego searching for whales — including humpbacks, orcas, blues, and southern rights — while exploring glaciers tumbling into the frosty sea from the Cordillera Darwin, the world’s southernmost mountain range outside of Antarctica. This isolated landscape, characterized by foreboding peaks and dense lenga forests, evokes a sense of pristine wilderness reminiscent of days gone by. After disembarking back in Punta Arenas, you have the option to fly out via Santiago or return to Ushuaia by bus, car, flight, or ferry.

Mark Johanson journeyed to Tierra del Fuego with the Adventure Travel Trade Association.