September is my favourite time of year in Barcelona, and that’s mainly because of Festes de la Mercè. Just three weeks after the city has returned from the month-long August break, Barcelona goes on holiday once again for the biggest celebration of the year. There’s everything from quirky theatrical performances to acrobatics in the castle, interactive installations and colourful folkloric parades.
What is La Mercè?
La Mercè is one of the biggest festival events in Barcelona’s calendar. It’s a time when all the neighbourhood barrios come together to celebrate as a city. The four-day event honors the Verge de la Mercè, or the Virgin of Mercy, one of Barcelona’s two patron saints. While the festival’s origins lie in religion, it has evolved into a celebration of Barcelona itself.
When does La Mercè take place?
The festival occurs over a few days in late September. The day of La Mercè itself is always 24 September, and the celebrations are held around this date each year. This year, it will take place from 20–24 September 2019.
What happens during La Mercè?
La Mercè is a massive citywide event, comprising numerous festivals happening simultaneously. There are so many that even locals find it challenging to keep track.
The BAM Festival highlights live music, with concerts throughout various locations in the city. Moreover, the MAC Festival focuses on performing arts, dance, and street theatre, featuring performances at the Parc de la Ciutadella and Arc de Triomf area. Expect everything from bizarre acts to splendid cultural performances from across the globe.
Nits al Castell or Nights at the Castle offers a series of thrilling circus acts and acrobatic performances, taking place at Montjuic Castle and in the Nou Barris neighborhood to the north. Additionally, the Mostra de Vins i Caves de Catalunya celebrates Barcelona’s wine and cava, set this year in the barrio of Sant Antoni.
Besides individual events, traditional Catalan folkloric elements enrich La Mercè, showcasing parades of giants, correfocs (fire runs) featuring firework-spraying devils, and castellers (gravity-defying human towers).
Additionally, many city attractions, museums, and buildings offer free or discounted entry during La Mercè. If there’s a site you’ve longed to visit that is not typically accessible to the public, check on 24 September, as it might be open. Be mindful that there isn’t usually an official list, making it beneficial to verify individual websites beforehand.
What are the main highlights that I shouldn’t miss?
There are hundreds of different events occurring during La Mercè, making it impossible to experience everything, which can initially seem overwhelming. Therefore, obtaining a programme is essential. While an online version exists, the English translation can be limited. It is advisable to secure a printed copy from one of the tourist offices.
If your time is limited or you feel uncertain about what to see, it’s best to concentrate on the highlights. Key events include the opening parade along La Rambla (scheduled for 20 September), the light projections on the City Hall in Plaça Sant Jaume (every night from approximately 8:30 PM to midnight), and the giant’s parade on the morning of 24 September. The festival culminates with a grand pyromusical display of water, fire, and music at Plaça d’Espanya on the night of the 24th.
For those experiencing a Catalan festival for the first time, the traditional aspects, such as fire runs and human towers, are must-sees; keep an eye on the programme to ensure you don’t miss anything. Most of these will occur around Plaça Sant Jaume.
If you are already familiar with Catalan festival traditions, focus on watching as many individual performances as you can, primarily around Parc de la Ciutadella and the Arc de Triomf.
What about events for children?
La Mercè is inherently family-oriented, and nearly all events are suitable for children. Kids will particularly enjoy the parade of giants alongside circus performances and street theatre at the MAC Festival. Additionally, a large segment of Parc de la Ciutadella is dedicated to children, including eco-friendly rides, toys, and games, many facilitated by parents. There are also puppet shows, storytelling, and workshops available. Be aware that all activities will be conducted in Catalan, yet the entertainment factor remains high, regardless of language barriers. However, if you or your children have never experienced a correfoc (fire run) before, it could be quite intimidating.
