Explore Grenoble, France

‘At the end of every street, there’s a mountain,’ the writer Stendhal famously said about his hometown of Grenoble, France. Set amidst three glorious massifs and spliced by two glacial rivers, nature’s divinity is still on the city’s doorstep. Therefore, first-timers should start their journey with its wonderful museums and distinct local cuisine.

Fly Up to Fort de la Bastille

For the best introduction to Grenoble, hop onto the bubble-like télécabine, the cable car that floats over the Isère River to Fort de la Bastille. Perched high above the city, this 19th-century military fortress was erected to defend France against the Duchy of Savoy. Surrounded by snow-capped mountains, enjoy a stunning 360-degree panorama that breezes out as far as Mont Blanc on a clear day.

Delve into the Region’s History

To gain a fuller sense of the area, clamber up Montée Chalemont, the ancient Roman road that winds past the red roofs of the city, and visit Musée Dauphinois. This former 17th-century convent is now an absorbing regional museum that explores the culture and traditions of the Dauphinois people. Its ‘People of the Alps’ section is particularly intriguing as it documents the lives of locals through old photos, timeworn clothes, and outdated farming machinery.

Digest Some Contemporary Art

Founded in 1798, the stirring Musée de Grenoble is regarded as one of France’s finest art institutions. Its rich collection includes Egyptian antiquities and artworks from the 13th century onward, but it truly excels at contemporary art. The bright, light-filled gallery has honored the likes of Georgia O’Keeffe and Wassily Kandinsky, while also showcasing more than 4000 paintings, including works by Renoir and Monet.

Become a Comic Book Convert

The Sainte-Cécile convent (couventsaintececile.com) has been converted for all manner of purposes, including being a religious sanctuary, theatre, and military base. However, since the Glénat publishing house moved in around 2009, it has embraced its comic book calling. With a library of more than 20,000 titles, visitors can witness the restoration of the cloister and its impressive staircase. Don’t miss Jacques Glénat’s private art collection as well as the colorful stained glass windows designed by Dutch comic designer Joost Swarte and the statue of the famous comic book character Titeuf out front.

Cycle to the Ecoquartier

Despite its proximity to the mountains, Grenoble is surprisingly flat. Moreover, you can take advantage of the city’s Métrovélo bicycle rental scheme to glide to Caserne de Bonne (la-caserne-de-bonne.com), a shopping center that’s home to France’s first ecoquartier (green neighborhood). Built on the grounds of a former military barracks, this sustainable development features a lovely park with fish-filled ponds and plenty of street art. Keep an eye out for Snek’s striking L’Arme de Paix depicting a woman crying, and Nevercrew’s Ordering Machine, which showcases two whales caught up in a towel.

Indulge in Some Gastronomic Treats

Cheese lovers will adore Fromagerie des Alpages (les-alpages.fr),easy to spot by the long lines stretching from the door. This award-winning cheesemongers is a treasure trove of dairy delights, offering Savoie, Beaufort, Bleu de Sassenage, Saint-Marcellin, raclette, and reblochon cheeses. One block down, you will find artisan chocolatier, Chocolaterie Bochard (chocolaterie-bochard.com), known for its extravagant sweet treats packaged beautifully, especially the star attraction, Le Mandarin – small chocolate-covered clementines.

Explore the Lanes Around Place Notre-Dame

Experience Stendhal’s notion about massifs lurking on street corners in the alleyways leading from Place Notre-Dame. By wandering through the narrow streets of this historic center, you will stumble upon handsome squares, artfully decorated fountains, and numerous tempting terrace bars. After a while, you’ll find the cobblestones of Place Saint-André leading to the city’s most beautiful building, Palais du Parlement du Dauphiné, a former courthouse from the 16th century, splendidly mixing Gothic and neo-Renaissance elements.

Drink an Elixir of Life

While gaining entry to the Grande Chartreuse monastery, located 30 winding minutes north of Grenoble, may not be possible without a vow of solitude, you can still hike the surrounding mountains and wild meadows. Consequently, head to the Chartreuse Cellars (chartreuse.fr) in neighboring Voiron for a taste of the monastery’s famous spirit, chartreuse. This pungent herbal liqueur, made from a mixture of 130 herbs, follows an ancient manuscript bestowed upon monks by François Annibal d’Estrées, the Marshal of France, in the 1600s. The intricate manuscript, thought to be written by a 16th-century alchemist, contained an elusive elixir that was complicated to decipher, leaving only parts of it to create the spirit.

Dine at One of the Oldest Cafes in France

Follow in the footsteps of Rousseau and Stendhal by dining at the famed Café de la Table Ronde (restaurant-tableronde-grenoble.com), reputedly France’s second oldest café after Le Procope in Paris. The café features a pewter counter, antique mirrors, and period chandeliers that contribute to the brasserie’s classic appeal. Start with the braised diots (mountain sausages) served with gratin dauphinois, and conclude with a delightful tarte aux noix (walnut tart), made with local walnuts and served with a scoop of walnut ice cream.

Explore the Revitalised Industrial Area

Once the industrial heart of Grenoble, Bouchayer-Viallet is slowly being reclaimed by nature. Housed in an old industrial hall built for Gustave Eiffel, the vast Le Magasin – Centre National d’Art Contemporain serves as a cutting-edge center for the arts. The building has been beautifully restored and is next to La Belle Electrique (la-belle-electrique.com), a newly designed concert hall with curved windows and wooden slats.