Explore the San Juan Islands – A Serene Retreat
If you’re in search of a peaceful getaway from the hectic pace of modern life, start planning your trip to the San Juan Islands now. This small, scattered archipelago is a bucolic mélange of sustainable farms and charming accommodations, where the pace hasn’t changed much since the 1950s.
Peace, calm, and closeness to nature are the main reasons visitors flock here. In laid-back but industrious rural communities, motorists wave greetings, and you can leave your bike unlocked outside the grocery store, expecting it to be exactly where you left it upon return.
Don’t arrive with expectations for shopping malls or bustling nightlife; instead, come for kayaking, whale watching, beachcombing, sailing, clamming, and skillfully crafted farm-to-table cuisine paired with local wines. Prepare to feel the tranquility while still vacationing on the continental United States.
When is the best time to go to the San Juan Islands?
Cocooned in the Puget Sound between northwest Washington and Canada’s Vancouver Island, the San Juans boast a relatively mild climate throughout the year. The optimal time to visit for dry, sunny, and warm weather is from May to September, when most businesses are open and conditions are ideal for invigorating outdoor activities such as kayaking and cycling. However, this peak season also means more crowds.
To sidestep the throngs while still enjoying pleasant weather, consider visiting in September after Labor Day weekend.
Fall and winter bring the most rainfall, but heavy snow and subzero temperatures are rare. Off-season accommodation rates are notably lower, except for a slight spike during Christmas and New Year.
Is it easy to get to and around the San Juan Islands?
When it comes to reaching the islands, you have two choices: air or boat. The ferry is by far the most popular option, with a scenic journey from the port of Anacortes, located about a 90-minute drive north of Seattle. The archipelago comprises more than 170 islands, with regular car ferries serving the largest four: Lopez, Shaw, Orcas, and San Juan Island.
The three primary islands—Lopez, San Juan, and Orcas—are small enough to explore by bicycle, with rental outlets available on each island. San Juan Island and Orcas also operate seasonal shuttle buses from May to September, connecting ferry terminals to popular attractions. Many travelers opt to bring their own cars for added convenience.
Seasonal flights in small aircraft and seaplanes connect the San Juan Islands with Seattle, Anacortes, and Bellingham. The nearest major international airport is Seattle-Tacoma International Airport (SeaTac).
How to pick the best San Juan island for you
San Juan Island: Best for History
San Juan Island is notable for being the site of one of America’s lesser-known diplomatic quirks. The islands gained attention during the 1859 Pig War, a border dispute between the British and Americans that almost ignited a full-blown conflict. The only casualty of this odd incident was a foraging pig shot by an overly zealous American farmer, prompting the establishment of two military camps on the island to safeguard the then-unclear border between the US and Canada.
Today, British Camp and American Camp still stand in place, incorporated into a national historical park as a testament to a conflict that—thankfully—never escalated. Visitors can explore old barracks, informative panels, and engage with park rangers to better understand this intriguing history.
The island is also home to wineries, cideries, and artisan farms producing everything from lavender to alpacas.
Lopez Island: Best for Cycling
With flat terrain, traffic-calmed roads, and friendly locals, Lopez Island is an ideal destination for cyclists. Leave the car behind, or at least park it at the ferry terminal in Anacortes, and enjoy the scenery as if you were in the Netherlands.
Covering 30 square miles and a population of under 3000, Lopez Island features sunlit fields, attractive wooden barns, curvy beaches, and rustling forests. With no highways or traffic signals to contend with, it offers a cyclist’s paradise. Cars rarely exceed 45mph, making for a peaceful riding environment.
Lopez Bicycle Works in the village rents a full range of bicycles from May to September—ideal for organizing fishing charters and kayaking trips. The island is famous for its pebbly sand beaches, often frequented by playful seals.
Orcas Island: Best for Kayaking
As the most rugged of the main islands, Orcas Island features a jagged coastline peppered with bluffs, bays, and small islets—making it a kayak enthusiast’s haven. Paddling close to shore offers the chance to navigate through clear, sheltered waters kissed by mossy tracts of temperate rainforest, with sightings of seals, eagles, and maybe even an orca on the horizon.
If venturing farther from shore seems daunting, consider joining an organized tour. Local outfitters are known for their exceptional kayaking trips and lessons, ideal for all experience levels.
Orcas boasts a large state park with a recreational lake, various campgrounds, and an extensive network of trails. Nearby, the vintage 1906 Rosario Resort offers luxurious accommodations along with its own museum.
How much money do I need for the San Juan Islands?
Despite its reputation as a favored spot for affluent yachters, the islands cater to a variety of budgets.
While the area doesn’t feature major discount stores or massive shopping centers, you’ll find reasonably priced bakeries and delis stocked with fresh ingredients for assembling a delightful picnic.
Travelers on a budget can opt for a hostel in Friday Harbor on San Juan Island or explore camping options on all four ferry-accessible islands. Some smaller paddle-in islands offer primitive camping accessible by private boat or kayak. All campgrounds include tent sites, with larger locations providing full-utility sites for RVs.
Although some affluent visitors use private boats for transportation, many others utilize Washington State Ferries, where fares remain surprisingly affordable without a vehicle.
How many days do I need in the San Juan Islands?
A minimum of three days is recommended, but plan for more time if you wish to savor each of the three main islands.
Are there any towns on the islands?
The only significant town in the archipelago is Friday Harbor on San Juan Island, which has a population of around 2000. Eastsound on Orcas and Lopez Village on Lopez both serve as small civic and commercial centers with shops, restaurants, and places to stay.
Do bears live on the San Juan Islands?
There is no permanent bear population; occasionally, a lone black bear might swim over from Vancouver Island or the US mainland, typically being caught and relocated.
Is Shaw Island worth a visit?
Shaw is the smallest of the four islands accessible by public ferry. While it offers a small campground, there is only one general store for food. With a couple of beaches and a network of quiet roads, it’s perfect for a pleasant afternoon bike ride; otherwise, the larger islands are recommended for more expansive exploration.
Which is the biggest island?
Orcas is the largest island, measuring 57 square miles in comparison to San Juan Island’s 55 square miles. In terms of population, however, San Juan Island is home to nearly 9000 residents, whereas Orcas has around 6000.
Which is the best island for hiking?
Orcas Island boasts the most extensive array of trails thanks to the 5000-acre Moran State Park, featuring rugged terrain that includes the 2407ft Mt Constitution.
What local dishes should I taste?
Shellfish takes center stage as the archipelago’s signature food, especially locally harvested razor clams, crab, oysters, and scallops. Supporting these delicacies are two Pacific Northwest staples: halibut and salmon, which have been fished since pre-Columbian times. If seafood isn’t to your liking, the islands’ residents also rear their own livestock, with Lopez Island lamb often gracing local restaurant menus.
What are the best water activities?
Whale watching ranks high on the list of activities, with orca sightings nearly guaranteed during the summer months (May to October). Visitors also have the chance to spot orcas from the shoreline at San Juan Island’s Lime Kiln Point State Park. Whale-watching boat trips are conveniently organized from Orcas and San Juan Island, with frequent sightings of humpback, minke, and gray whales.
All three islands provide kayak rentals and guided tours. More experienced paddlers can navigate the Cascadia Marine Trail (CMT), a 160-mile sailing and paddling route that encompasses the San Juans. The more remote islands in the archipelago include rustic CMT campsites equipped with landing areas, picnic tables, and compost toilets, all marked by official CMT signage.
Are there any non-athletic things to do?
San Juan Island features a whale museum, an art gallery, and a winery with a tasting room. Orcas, Shaw, and Lopez Islands each host small historical museums, while The Rosario Resort on Orcas Island offers a relaxing spa experience.
My favorite activity in the San Juan Islands
The San Juan Islands are my go-to destination for “active relaxation.” Here, I can disconnect from the noise of world news and social media, opting instead for walks and runs along quiet backroads and coastal paths.
If I could capture one unforgettable experience, it would be the exhilarating 10-mile bike ride from Eastsound to the summit of Mt Constitution on Orcas Island. This ride traverses farmland, forest, shoreline, and lakeside scenery, culminating in an ascent to the observation tower at the summit—the views of the island-speckled waters stretching into the horizon are simply breathtaking.
Daily costs
- Basic room for two in peak season: $190
- Campsites: tent/RV $15/45
- Ferry ticket with/without car: $45.85/15.85
- Bike/e-bike rental per day: $40/70
- Coffee: $3.50–$4.50
- Sandwich: $8–$13
- Dinner for two: $80–$100
- Beer/pint at the bar: $6–$8
This article was first published Apr 6, 2022, and updated Jan 30, 2024.
