Summary
The second-largest city in Ontario and the seat of government in Canada, Ottawa has a population of about 883,000—it’s nearly 1.3 million if you factor in the metro region, which includes parts of eastern Ontario and southern Quebec. This attractive, tidy, and culturally vibrant city, bisected by the scenic Rideau Canal and separated from the smaller city of Hull, Quebec, by the Ottawa River, is just a 2.5-hour drive from Montreal and a 5-hour drive from Toronto. The nearest major U.S. cities—Boston and New York City—are about 8 hours away by car, but they’re easily reached by short (under 90-minute) direct flights.
As Ottawa is the capital of one of the most progressive gay-friendly countries in the Western Hemisphere, it’s not surprising that the city has a sizable GLBT community. You won’t find the raucous party scene more typical of Montreal and Toronto, but there are a handful of fun gay bars. Moreover, a great variety of hip restaurants and lounges cater to a mixed bunch. For visitors and residents alike, much of the social and entertainment scene is anchored around downtown, within a few blocks of the magnificent government buildings of Parliament Hill.
Overview of Ottawa
Follow Bank Street south of Parliament Hill for about 10 blocks, and you’ll find yourself in the heart of Ottawa’s Gay Village. The roughly six-block span of Bank Street (and to a lesser extent O’Connor Street) between Somerset and Gladstone makes up the heart of this GLBT hub, which has just one gay bar but several shops, restaurants, and cafes with strong community ties.
Plenty of locals assert that “Gay Village” is something of a misnomer given how eclectic the aforementioned Bank Street area is, and also taking into consideration how geographically diffuse the city’s GLBT community is. There’s a noticeable gay presence, both in terms of nightlife and dining, in the lively and hip Byward Market district, located on the northeast side of downtown, just across the Rideau Canal from Parliament Hill. This area is perfect for daytime exploration, as it is home not only to wonderful cafes but also a noteworthy gallery district.
Museums and Attractions
Many of the city’s key attractions pertain to Ottawa’s role as the center of the Canadian government. Dominating the city skyline along a high bluff overlooking the Ottawa River, Parliament Hill comprises a series of 1860s buildings that rank among the most elegant works of Gothic Revival architecture in Canada. The complex has three key components: the West Block; Centre Block (above which rises the 300-foot-tall Peace Tower, from whose observation deck you can enjoy stunning views of the city), and East Block. Guided and self-guided tours are available.
Other attractions that relate to the city’s governmental role include Rideau Hall, the official residence of the Governor General of Canada, and the Royal Canadian Mint—tours are available for both buildings.
Downtown contains most of Ottawa’s top sightseeing draws. However, one highlight—the Canadian Museum of Civilization, which traces the country’s human heritage back more than 1,000 years—is just across the Ottawa River in Hull, Quebec. It’s an enjoyable walk or bike ride across the Alexandra Bridge to reach the museum.
Notable downtown museums include the Canadian Museum of Nature, with galleries showcasing fossils, mammals, birds, and exhibits about the earth and sea; and the National Gallery of Canada, located near ByWard Market and housing over 36,000 works of art.
One of the best ways to enjoy Ottawa is to stroll alongside the Rideau Canal National Historic Site, which features a series of locks leading down to the Ottawa River. Recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Rideau Canal passes through some of the most scenic areas of Ottawa as well as charming towns on its journey south. Along the downtown stretch of the canal, you can walk to the ByTown Museum, a repository of city history housed in the city’s oldest stone building. In winter, the canal is popular for ice skating, while the rest of the year, it’s an ideal route for biking.
Close to the canal and just southeast of Parliament Hill, Canada’s National Arts Centre serves as the city’s premier performing arts venue, showcasing festivals, French- and English-speaking theater companies, classical music, and dance.
Restaurants and Coffeehouses
Ottawa boasts several noted dining hubs, with the ByWard Market neighborhood leading the way in critically acclaimed eateries. Additionally, the Bank Street Gay Village, the trendy stretch of eateries on Elgin Street, the lively Glebe area, and Westboro Village are also excellent choices.
In the Gay Village, the ’50s-inspired Bramasole Diner offers hearty breakfast options, burgers, shakes, and similar fare. The nearby Whalesbone Oyster House is celebrated for its commitment to sustainable seafood.
Coffeehouses are plentiful in Ottawa, including various locations of the excellent regional chain Bridgehead Coffee, which uses high-quality, fair-trade beans. The Bank Street location in the Gay Village is particularly popular.
In a charming old-fashioned redbrick house downtown, 222 Lyon specializes in Spanish tapas. Elgin Street is home to Fresco Bistro Italiano, known for thin-crust pizzas and delicious main dishes, while Play Food & Wine is a favorite for small plates and interesting wines by the glass.
Don’t miss Kinki Asian Fusion, located beneath the Lookout gay bar, or the Japanese restaurant Wasabi, which serves delicious sushi. Open 24 hours, Dunn’s Famous offers a satisfying menu of Montreal classics and several locations in Ottawa.
In ByWard Market, Empire Grill is an upscale favorite for steaks, and for dessert, check out the artisan gelato shop Piccolo Grande.
In the Glebe, you might visit Quinn’s Ale House for good pub fare, while Wild Oat Bakery is known for delicious vegetarian options. For Montreal-style bagels, stop by Kettleman’s Bagel Co., famous for its chewy bagels baked in a wood-burning oven.
A short drive west of downtown, be sure to check out Westboro Village’s offering, including Canvas Retso-Bar and Foolish Chicken, both favorites among locals.
Best Hotels for Gay Travelers
Most of Ottawa’s best hotels are located in or near downtown, close to local gay nightlife, top restaurants, and engaging attractions. A major sponsor of the annual Ottawa Gay Pride festival in August, the stylish ARC Hotel is an upscale boutique property offering competitive rates. The inviting hotel features an attractive lounge and sleek rooms outfitted with premium bath amenities, plush robes, and minibars.
The city’s grand dame, the Fairmont Chateau Laurier, rises elegantly above Rideau Canal, its regal architecture appealing to both leisure and business travelers alike. The trendy restaurants and nightlife of ByWard Market are just a couple of blocks away, making this hotel a popular choice.
Another notable downtown hotel is the intimate Metcalf Hotel Ottawa, part of the Indigo boutique-hotels brand. With sleek, high-tech rooms and valuable amenities such as free Wi-Fi and a great pool, this hotel is one of the best values in the city.
Also well-liked are two B&Bs a short drive or 10 to 15-minute walk east of downtown: The Avalon B&B, known for its elegant touches, such as comfy armchairs and hardwood floors.
LGBT Nightlife
Ottawa may not have a huge number of gay bars, but those in the city are fun and friendly, all situated in great neighborhoods close to downtown.
Packed with stylish bars and buzzing nightclubs, the ByWard Market district includes a popular gay hangout, the Lookout Bar, located on the upper level of a historic brick building. The cozy club features dancing, drag shows, and karaoke. Fridays are known for a popular lesbian night.
The other GLBT option in ByWard Market is the Mercury Lounge, a mainstream club on most nights but offers themed events on HUMP Wednesdays that cater to the queer community.
In the Gay Village on Bank Street, Swizzles serves karaoke, cabaret, and more, attracting a mix of patrons, while Central Spa Ottawa caters to the more mature crowd.
Lastly, One In Ten offers a huge selection of gay porn, toys, and erotica, complete with a backroom X-rated movie theater.
Popular LGBT Shopping
Ottawa features several shops with strong GLBT followings, particularly in the Bank Street Village. Wicked Wanda’s is noted for its friendly staff and wide variety of adult erotica products. Nearby, Book Bazaar offers a great selection of used books.
In addition to the excellent restaurants in the ByWard neighborhood, the public market—one of the largest in the country—offers a diverse selection of food retailers and independent shops. Schad Blu is a trendy spot for clothing brands like Diesel and True Religion.
Among major downtown shopping areas, the Rideau Centre is a three-level mall packed with popular brands, conveniently located in the heart of downtown across from the Rideau Canal.
Side Trips: Wakefield, Quebec, and Merrickville, Ontario
Wakefield, Quebec (and Gatineau Park)
If you’re looking to escape the hustle of the city, consider a day trip to Wakefield, an artsy town with a charming covered bridge and excellent dining options. The village is about a 45-minute drive from Ottawa, with the picturesque Gatineau Park along the way. The pedestrian-only covered bridge presents a delightful opportunity for photo-ops, while numerous boutiques and restaurants line the western side of the river.
Dining options include romantic Cafe Pot Au Feu and the lively Bistro Rutherford at the Black Sheep Inn. In Gatineau Park, you’ll find scenic trails and lakes perfect for boating, making it a fantastic nature getaway.
Merrickville, Ontario
Approximately an hour’s drive south of Ottawa, the charming town of Merrickville offers picturesque scenery along the historic Rideau Canal. Renowned for its preserved historic architecture, the town is a favorite spot for shopping, dining, and kayaking. Numerous inviting restaurants and cozy B&Bs are available, with the Baldachin Inn particularly popular among GLBT travelers.
