It’s Friday at 8pm and, somewhere in the Baltic Sea, a ferry is sailing through icy waters. There is a party aboard: pints of beer are being slung in an on-board pub where people are enjoying contemporary hits played by a two-man band. Adults are relaxing with cans of something boozy, indulging in arcade games, or simply sipping beverages in the Arctic wind on an open-air deck.
This is the ferry between Tallinn and Helsinki: a majestic mode of transportation that makes embarking on a twin-city weekend away possible while providing an opportunity for an extraordinary cross-Baltic pub crawl, exploring two of northern Europe’s most underrated capital cities.
Tallinn and Helsinki: Connected Through the Ages
Finland and Estonia share historical and cultural roots that distinctly position them apart from neighboring Baltic nations. To begin with, both countries belong to the Finno-Ugric language family, which includes Finnish, Estonian, and Hungarian. This unique linguistic connection separates them from their Baltic counterparts, like Latvian and Lithuanian.
The Tallinn-Helsinki ferry is not the first “booze cruise” to sail Baltic waters. In the 18th century, British ships journeyed from the Thames through the Gulf of Finland, delivering dark English ales favored by the Russian empress Catherine the Great. Crews would stop en route, making the drink popular at ports throughout the Baltics. Eventually, it was mixed with other brewing styles from Germany, resulting in the unique and rich flavor known today as ‘Baltic porter’. This style, first coined by beer writer Michael Jackson, has grown in complexity and popularity throughout the centuries, with many craft brewers in Finland, Estonia, Poland, and beyond still brewing it today.
Exploring the Tallinn Pub Scene
Traditionally, Helsinki served as the departure point for a Baltic booze cruise. Finns would cross the sea to take advantage of Estonia’s lower alcohol taxes. Although recent years have seen a substantial increase in alcohol tariffs in Estonia, evidence of this economic phenomenon persists in Tallinn’s port area, where large stores such as SuperAlko and Off License offer discounted beverages to day-tripping Finns.
For visitors planning a weekend filled with cross-Baltic adventures, basing in Tallinn is incredibly convenient. The city is easy to navigate and features affordable accommodation, historical sites, and upscale restaurants at surprisingly reasonable prices.
Beer enthusiasts should definitely visit the local brewery Põhjala. This brewery, inspired by Estonian heritage, produces beers like the ‘Forest Series’, which incorporates unique ingredients such as birch bark, lingonberries, and woodland herbs. They have recently opened a brand-new brewing space and taproom, complete with a sauna, in a historic Tallinn building that used to be a shipbuilding warehouse.
In addition, you can explore local brews at brewpub Humalakoda and the craft beer bar Pudel, both located in the city’s gentrified railway warehouse district, Telliskivi Creative City. Allocate a night to explore cocktails, food, and drinks amidst the trendy restaurants and bars in the area. Don’t forget to visit the neighborhood’s pioneering restaurant, F-hoone.
Riding the Tallinn-Helsinki Ferry
Various ferries cross the Baltic at different speeds, but many travelers prefer the speedy Tallink Shuttle. This remarkable vessel is essentially a multi-deck party ship, featuring something for everyone, including a vast duty-free shopping mall, cafes, a buffet, and an upscale restaurant. You’ll also find a lively pub, live music on every crossing, a Starbucks, and even the world’s only floating Burger King (with a retro arcade nearby).
The crossing lasts just two hours, which may seem adequate until you board and are lured into the captivating yet peculiar timelessness of the journey. Both Tallinn and Helsinki are exceptional cities, but the ferry ride creates a unique experience that can overshadow them both, showcasing its entertainingly mediocre charm.
Helsinki Pub Crawl
Helsinki is an ideal day trip destination. By many travelers’ standards, it is more costly to eat and sleep here compared to Tallinn. While Helsinki boasts striking architecture and a friendly atmosphere, it offers somewhat less in sightseeing opportunities compared to its Estonian counterpart. Therefore, visitors can delight in the cold Finnish air, warm up with several cups of glögi (mulled wine), explore excellent brewpubs, and appreciate the probably-grey sea in a one-day pub crawl.
The city’s tram system conveniently connects to the ferry port, facilitating easy access to the city center upon arrival. A travelcard for the day can be procured at machines near the tram stop, enabling a DIY tram tour. The first stop should be Vanha Kauppahalli, Helsinki’s harbor-side market hall, established in 1888, replete with food stalls showcasing Baltic delicacies, including reindeer jerky and smoked fish. Within, at Story, claim a seat with harbor views and relish a generous bowl of salmon stew accompanied by a steaming cup of glögi.
Once you’ve fortified your stomach, it’s time to discover the drinking scene, as there are many bars throughout Helsinki. Eponymous Bryggeri Helsinki was one of the city’s first local breweries and offers a cozy place to enjoy a pint of Finnish craft beer. A short stroll away lies the stylishly designed Sori Brewing taproom. The story of Sori is quite unique: co-founders Pyry and Heikki initiated their brewing journey in Tallinn, yet operate the taproom in their hometown across the sea.
If you manage to venture beyond Sori (though, beware, it can be quite easy to lose track of time amid the taps), you’ll find international breweries like Tommyknocker and BrewDog also maintain bars in Helsinki. To wrap up your evening, consider stopping by Tislaamo, a cocktail bar housed within the Helsinki Distillery, serving Nordic-inspired cocktails and cuisine. The distillery also offers tastings and tours, making it a must-visit for whiskey enthusiasts.
Ultimately, you may find yourself racing towards the ferry terminal, likely indulging in a good old-fashioned floating Burger King to soak up a fantastic weekend of bar crawling across the enchanting Baltic Sea.
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