western São Miguel
São Miguel Island, the largest of the nine islands in the Azores, offers a remarkable blend of hiking, culinary delights, and breathtaking scenery. With direct flights from Europe and the United States, accessing the Azores has become increasingly convenient.
Kicking off your adventure in Ponta Delgada, the island’s capital, you can easily explore either the eastern or western sections, each presenting unique experiences. This comprehensive guide aims to help you maximize your visit to São Miguel.
Western São Miguel
Best Hikes
One of the top attractions in São Miguel is the western part of the island, particularly on pleasant days, especially during summer when rainfall is minimal. A visit to the Lagoa das Sete Cidades (Seven Cities) provides numerous hiking opportunities offering awe-inspiring views.
Mata do Canário
The rim trail around the Caldeira offers some of the best vistas into the Seven Cities. This straightforward yet lengthy hike stretches approximately 12km; ensure you carry water and snacks as the multitude of photo opportunities may slow your pace.
Mata do Canário
Travel past the Monte Palace Hotel to a small parking spot on your left, which marks the beginning of your hike. After descending into the heart of the town, you can enjoy a meal and arrange a cab ride back to your vehicle.
Monte Palace Abandoned Hotel
The site of a once-luxurious hotel that has since fallen into disrepair is commonly featured in online images of the Seven Cities area. You may explore the dilapidated structure, but be cautious of your surroundings. Plans are underway for its renovation and reopening.
Adjacent to the hotel is the starting point for the Vista do Rei hike, providing yet another scenic viewpoint distinct from the Mata do Canário trail.
Miradouro da Boca do Inferno
This viewpoint, widely recognized in promotional materials, was unfortunately overlooked during my visit. It is often regarded as the most photogenic location on the island, drawing tourists seeking the quintessential Seven Cities vista.
Serra Devassa
This hike the day I attempted it was shrouded in fog, creating an eerie ambiance as I circled a pond featuring a quaint structure. While the path predominantly consists of gravel and maintenance roads, it still offers a serene experience.
We couldn’t see anything during this hike, so I couldn’t tell you if the views are beautiful but it was kind of cool to walk through the fog.Lagoa in the fog
Culinary Delights in Ponta Delgada
Ponta Delgada, characterized by its narrow cobblestone streets and notable churches, has seen significant tourism-driven growth. Numerous restaurants have emerged, epitomizing quality and culinary excellence. Visitors can partake in expertly prepared steaks, fresh seafood, and delightful pineapple cake, ensuring a memorable dining experience no matter the choice.
Pineapple Plantation
Just outside of Ponta Delgada lies the island’s sole pineapple plantation. Visitors can enjoy a free tour, wandering through the greenhouses to observe the pineapples at various stages of development.
Pineapple Plantation
Don’t miss the chance to sample their homemade pineapple liqueur available in the small gift shop, offering a unique souvenir.
Thermal Pools
The western region of São Miguel features multiple options for indulging in warm mineral waters within picturesque settings. One such location consists of a small alcove where heated rocks warm the sea water, making it a delightful escape.
This small oasis may become crowded during low tide, which is the ideal time to visit to fully appreciate its charm. Nestled alongside a spa, we enjoyed this experience for free, although it’s advisable to check for any changes regarding entry fees.
Thermal pools
The facilities include showers, changing rooms, and a small convenience shop, enhancing your experience. With ropes dividing the alcove, spend hours floating in the tranquil waters as the tide gradually rises.
Eastern São Miguel
The eastern region of São Miguel is characterized by its notable volcanic activity, most prominently displayed in the town of Furnas, where sulphuric scents emanate from the earth. With stunning vistas and impressive hiking opportunities, the east coast offers countless adventures.
Furnas
Furnas boasts an array of attractions, many of which come at a cost. Below are the top experiences well worth the investment, along with one complimentary option.
Cozido
A must-try for meat lovers, the cozido is a unique culinary experience, although vegetarian versions are available. This traditional dish consists of assorted meats and vegetables cooked underground in a caldeira, imparting a remarkable flavor that can’t be replicated elsewhere.
Recommended locations to enjoy a cozido include Tony’s and the Terra Nostra Garden hotel. The latter also grants complimentary access to the adjacent botanical gardens.
The serving of the cozido is a theatrical experience, with waiters presenting and explaining the assorted meats and vegetables, followed by rice and the flavorful broth it was cooked in.
Azoreans have been preparing meals in these caldeiras for generations. For a fee, visitors can observe cooks preparing their pots early each morning as they allow the ingredients to simmer in the steaming earth for hours, resulting in an exquisite outcome.
Terra Nostra Garden
After enjoying your generous meal and armed with a complimentary ticket, venture through the hotel to explore the renowned Terra Nostra Gardens in Furnas. The main attraction is the thermal pools, with the main house providing an overview of the central pool.
Furnas, Sao Miguel
The mineral-rich, warm, burnt orange pool is renowned for its skin-softening properties, albeit staining your swimsuit. Additionally, smaller hot tubs scattered throughout the gardens provide opportunities for quick soaks.
The garden is meticulously divided into sections, inviting leisurely strolls to appreciate its beauty and tranquility.
Caldeiras
In addition to being a cooking site, the town showcases the earth’s vigorous activity with bubbling pools and geysers. Visitors can sample the mineral-laden waters at various tapping points; though unpleasant, it’s a fun experience to try out.
main attractions in Furnas
Thermal Pools
This side of São Miguel also features various locations for a soothing soak. Apart from the aforementioned Terra Nostra Gardens, the Caldeira Velha, located just north of Lagoa de Fogo (Lake of Fire) is a hidden gem popular among both locals and visitors. This thermal pool provides a dramatic, prehistoric atmosphere.
Terra Nostra Gardens
Top Hikes in Eastern São Miguel
Pico de Vara
As the highest point on the island, Pico de Vara presents an unmissable challenge for avid hikers. Set within a protected forest, planning is essential; a permit is required, and optimal weather conditions are crucial. However, even on the best days, encountering fog is highly likely.
Drone Photo by Jan Lovy
For more information about hiking Pico de Vara, please refer to my dedicated hike guide.
Chá Gorreana
One of the few tea plantations on São Miguel features a comprehensive walking trail. Here, visitors can observe the tea processing and learn about the plantation’s origins through an informative video.
Cha Gorreana
Rota da Água – Janela do Inferno
During hikes across São Miguel, expect to spend considerable time traversing dirt roads, a less desirable aspect for some hikers. Nevertheless, the Rota da Água trail offers intriguing features that merit exploration.
Bring a flashlight, or your phone, as you will walk through several tunnels with no light. It’s an eerie adventure suddenly being swallowed by darkness but an interesting feature.
Lagoa do Fogo
Considered the finest hike among the Azorean Islands, Lagoa do Fogo attracts considerable foot traffic due to its stunning beauty. This moderate 5.5km one-way trek begins along a farm road and eventually delves into a breathtaking cedar forest.
hiking to the lake of fire on Sao Miguel
Transitioning from the cedar forest to the lush flora typical of the Azores, hikers follow a charming aqueduct that supports rainbow trout. Each twist and turn along the path presents a potential photo opportunity. The trail then opens to sweeping cliffs, revealing channels of the aqueduct and picturesque white buildings. While the area primarily serves hydroelectric power, its stunning vistas remain captivating.
Upon reaching Lagoa do Fogo, you can enjoy various viewpoints and discover a shorter trail on the opposite side leading to a beach and lookout point. The effort of the hike is repaid with fewer crowds and breathtaking views.
Make sure you bring your swimsuit and take advantage of the pristine waters while you’re there!
Concluding Thoughts
The town of Ribeira Grande, centrally located, is also worth a visit. This surfing hub offers delicious, fresh seafood and is home to some of the best dining experiences on the island.
While São Miguel is the largest island in the Azores, its character and beauty make it an exceptional travel destination. Whether you’re seeking to explore its natural wonders or indulge in culinary treats, the island holds something for everyone.
