Summary
Deep in the dense tropical forest of Meghalaya, shrouded in cloud and rain for much of the year, are some astonishing man-made natural wonders. Known as living root bridges, inventive members of the Khasi tribe have trained them to grow from the roots of ancient rubber trees, native to the northeast region. The root bridges provide a stable alternative to wooden bridges, which decay and get destroyed during the lengthy monsoon seasons.
Overview of the Living Root Bridges
It takes around 15 years for a new root bridge to become strong enough to bear the weight of people crossing it. However, it will continue to grow and strengthen over time. Some of the bridges are believed to be hundreds of years old, although no one knows their exact age. Their tangled webs of roots are almost eerie in nature and wouldn’t look out of place in a fantasy world.
Cherrapunji Living Root Bridges
Meghalaya’s most famous root bridge, the “double-decker” root bridge, can be found in the vicinity of one of the wettest places on Earth — Cherrapunji (also known as Sohra). There are 11 functional root bridges in this area, situated about a two-and-a-half-hour drive from Shillong.
The bridges have been documented as far back as 1844, in the Journal of the Asiatic Society of Bengal. However, it was the owner of the Cherrapunjee Holiday Resort, a retired Tamil banker married to a local Khasi woman, who put them on the tourist map. He spent considerable time exploring the surroundings and detailing interesting treks while setting up the resort. (The Cherrapunjee Holiday Resort is a delightful, homely place to spend time in nature and guides are provided for trekking. However, don’t expect resort-style facilities).
The treks to the root bridges vary in duration and level of difficulty. The most well-known ones, which are all near the resort, are:
- Ummunoi Root Bridge: Starting point: Laitkynsew village. Duration: Two kilometers one way. Return: Three to four hours.
- Umkar Root Bridge: Starting point: Siej village. Duration: Half a kilometer one way. Return: 30 minutes.
- Ritymmen Root Bridge: Starting point: Tyrna village. Duration: One and a half to two hours return.
- Umshiang Double Decker Root Bridge: Starting point: Tyrna village. Duration: Three kilometers one way. Return: Four to five hours.
- Mawsaw Root Bridge: A short walk past the Double Decker root bridge leads to natural swimming pools nearby.
Mawlynnong Living Root Bridge
An alternative to the root bridges around Cherrapunji is a substantial root bridge near Mawlynnong village. Renowned for being declared the cleanest village in Asia by a travel magazine, scenic Mawlynnong also promotes itself as “God’s Own Garden.” The village is located near the Bangladesh border, around three hours from Shillong. To reach the root bridge, drive to Riwai village, a few kilometers before Mawlynnong. From there, it’s approximately a 15-minute walk one way.
How to Visit the Double-Decker Bridge
The legendary double-decker root bridge at Nongriat village near Cherrapunji, in northeast India’s Meghalaya state, beckons outdoor enthusiasts with the opportunity to see a 150+ year old man-made natural wonder that’s not only unique but astounding. While there are many single root bridges in the area, this is the only one that has two levels. Apparently, local Khasi tribe members grew the second level after an unprecedented wet monsoon season caused water to reach the first level. A third level is planned to enhance the bridge’s tourism potential.
The beauty and cleanliness of the village adds to the experience. The surrounding environment is stunning, with waterfalls, natural swimming pools, clusters of brightly colored butterflies, and the enchanting sounds of nature enhancing the magical atmosphere.
Visiting the double-decker root bridge requires a commitment to a long and tiring trek, but the out-of-this-world experience is guaranteed to be a highlight of your travels.
How Fit Do You Have to Be?
Many articles about the double-decker root bridge warn about the strenuous nature of the trek. The reality is that you don’t have to be exceptionally fit; however, if you have joint or mobility issues, it’s advisable to consider some easier options to see the living root bridges. Parts of the trek are steep and may strain the knees and calves.
Even though I don’t consider myself to be fit, I managed the trek in two hours each way at a leisurely pace, plus an hour of relaxation at the bridge. In total, it took five hours, after which my muscles were sore for a few days.
About the Trek
The path to the double-decker root bridge extends three kilometers (nearly two miles) with approximately 3,500 stairs and a descent of 2,400 feet. While these figures may seem daunting, they shouldn’t discourage anyone!
The trek consists of three main parts. The steepest segment is the initial descent to Nongthymmai village. This portion takes about 45 minutes down a challenging trail lined with lush vegetation. Jackfruits and pineapples grow abundantly within this jungle paradise.
Nongthymmai is a charming village with neat paths, beautiful gardens, and vibrant blue-and-white churches. From there, it takes at least another hour to reach the double-decker root bridge.
The final segments involve crossing narrow suspension bridges over rushing rivers, which are much flatter. However, this may still be daunting for those with a fear of heights.
After conquering numerous stairs, reaching a sign for Nongriat village is profoundly rewarding. Ascending the last set of stairs reveals the spectacular sight of the double-decker root bridge, a surreal structure intertwined with ancient roots.
How to Get There
The trek to the double-decker root bridge begins at Tyrna village, around 30 minutes past Cherrapunji. It’s reachable for a day trip from Shillong. The drive from Shillong to Tyrna takes approximately two and a half hours, costing around 3,000 rupees round trip. For a reliable taxi driver who knows the surroundings, I recommend Mr. Mumtiaz. Phone: 9206128935.
Cherrapunji Weather: When to Go
Cherrapunji is infamous for being one of the wettest locations globally. The rainy season generally starts in April and continues until October, peaking in June and July. During these months, rain usually falls in the mornings. For instance, when I trekked in mid-May, mornings were rainy but afternoons cleared up.
In January, the dry winter season, average maximum temperatures are around 16 degrees Celsius, dropping to 5 degrees Celsius at night. Conversely, in July, the wet monsoon months, daytime temperatures can reach 22 degrees Celsius. At night, they average around 18 degrees Celsius.
What to Wear
You might think wearing a raincoat or heavy clothing is a good choice; however, it’s best to wear lightweight, breathable attire due to the exertion involved in the trek. As you’ll likely sweat a lot, it’s much more comfortable to allow your skin to breathe. For footwear, choose comfortable shoes with excellent grip. Sandals, especially good-quality walking sandals like Birkenstocks, are suitable too.
What to Take
If you’re worried about rain, bringing an umbrella is wise. Pack enough food and water, as you’ll encounter only a couple of shacks selling packaged water and snacks on the way to Nongriat village. Simple Indian vegetarian meals are available at Nongriat. If you have fair skin, sunscreen and a cap are advisable. Evening mosquitos might be present, suggesting mosquito repellent as a good idea. If you want to swim in the natural pools by the double-decker bridge, don’t forget your swimwear. However, be mindful that carrying extra weight will feel heavy as you hike back up the hill.
Staying There
In Nongriat village, a few guesthouses and homestays offer very basic accommodations. If you can manage, it’s worth spending one or two nights to enjoy the breathtaking scenery. You can trek to nearby waterfalls, natural swimming pools, and other root bridges from the village. Pack light, as carrying a heavy backpack may be cumbersome.
Other Things to Note
Entry and camera fees apply at the double-decker root bridge: 10 rupees for adults, 5 for children, and 20 rupees for a camera. The local Khasi people prioritize environmental cleanliness, and there are Indian-style (squat) toilets available at the bridge. It’s also important to note that there is a fine of 500 rupees for littering or disposing of waste in the forest. Aim to return to Tyrna by 5 p.m. at the latest since it gets dark early in this region. Though hiring a guide isn’t necessary, many choose to do so as the paths are well-marked.
