Summary
Discover the islands that inspired Charles Darwin.
The Galápagos Islands, located roughly 600 miles off the coast of Ecuador, remained a closely guarded natural secret for millions of years. Over that time, the archipelago evolved into a home for an all-star cast of plants and animals. Sometime in the 1800s, some swashbuckling pirates and intrepid explorers started arriving in the Galápagos Islands. The most famous early visitor was Charles Darwin, a young naturalist who spent 19 days studying the islands’ flora and fauna in 1835. In 1859, Darwin published On the Origin of Species, which introduced his theory of evolution and the Galápagos Islands to the world.
Since then, word of these islands and their magnificent beauty has steadily grown. In 1959, the Galápagos became Ecuador’s first national park, and in 1978, it was named a UNESCO World Heritage site. Today, more than 275,000 people visit the Galápagos every year to see those incredible animals and landscapes for themselves.
As amazing as you think the Galápagos Islands will be, they routinely exceed expectations. It’s a place where lizards swim, birds walk, and humans, for once, don’t take center stage.
Reasons to Visit
Biodiversity brings over 100,000 visitors each year to these remote islands that were totally unknown to the world until 1535. Without the influence of a human presence, the island’s flora and fauna, and the surrounding marine life, thrived for thousands of years by evolving into unique species you won’t find anywhere else in the world, such as the charismatic giant tortoises and blue-footed boobies. Beyond seeing the main stars of the island, many visitors also enjoy the beautiful beaches and choose the Galápagos Islands as their honeymoon destination.
This is also one of the world’s top scuba diving destinations, so spending time on or in the water is a must, whether that means you’re ready to jump in with your snorkel for a sea lion swim or are happy to enjoy the views from the deck of your adventure cruise. Brimming with natural beauty, the Galápagos is for many a once-in-a-lifetime destination where the marvels of the natural world are waiting to astound you.
Best Time to Visit
There’s no bad time to visit the Galápagos Islands. No matter what time of year you go, the adventure is sure to be unique and wonderful. June through December are the cooler and drier months. Even though this is the dry season, a garúa (or light, misty rain) is still possible, particularly in December, and skies can be cloudy and gray.
January through May are the warmer and wetter months, but the rain creates brilliantly clear blue skies between showers — great for photography. March and April tend to be the hottest and wettest months, while August tends to be the coolest time.
Water temperatures vary throughout the year because of the powerful ocean currents in the archipelago. Between June and December, the colder currents dominate, and the water temperature dips low. A wet suit (likely provided by your boat or hotel) may be required while snorkeling during these months. However, the upside is that the cold current brings in huge quantities of plankton, which attract hungry marine life.
If you’re set on seeing a particular species in the Galápagos, talk to the tour operator and pick the month and itinerary that will give you the best chance for a sighting. Some species are seasonal, and many exist only on specific islands. For example, the waved albatross, also called the Galápagos albatross, is not a full-time resident. These birds just show up for mating in the spring and summer.
How to Get There
Flights to the Galápagos Islands depart multiple times each day from Quito or Guayaquil on mainland Ecuador. Flights from the U.S. are plentiful to both cities. Hotel options are better in Quito and, in general, this city is more compelling with a stunning colonial center, which was made a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1978. It’s also home to ample museums, shopping, and restaurants to easily fill a few days. However, Quito is over 9,000 feet above sea level, so altitude can be a problem for travelers arriving from lower elevations. Steamy Guayaquil, Ecuador’s largest city, is at sea level, so altitude is not an issue. However, the hotel and restaurant selection is much more limited in Guayaquil.
If you are planning to travel from mainland Ecuador to the Galápagos Islands, remember that there are two airports on two different islands in the archipelago. San Cristóbal Airport is on the island of the same name. Seymour Airport, which runs entirely on sun and wind power, can be found on tiny Baltra Island, which is separated from Santa Cruz Island by a narrow channel. Be sure to choose flights to the same island you’ll be based on or where your boat departs and returns.
By Land or By Sea
The first decision you have to make when visiting the Galápagos Islands is also the most difficult. Do you want to stay in a hotel on one of the three inhabited islands, and explore other islands and areas via day-trip boat rides? Or do you want to be based on a live-aboard boat, which provides accommodations and transportation from island to island? There are three main factors to consider when choosing between land and sea: cost, time management, and access.
A trip to the Galápagos Islands can be pricey. However, it’s easier to craft a less expensive experience if you choose to be land-based. These days, there are hotels and restaurants at many price points on San Cristóbal Island, Santa Cruz Island, and, to a much lesser extent, Isabela and Floreana Islands. Live-aboard boats also come in a range of price points. However, all but the most bare-bones boats still add up to more than a land-based vacation.
If you choose a land-based vacation, expect to spend a lot of time getting from your hotel onto a boat, out to the day’s destination, then back to your property. On the other hand, live-aboard boats do most of their navigating during the night when travelers are asleep in cabins on board. This means passengers wake up in a new destination ready for a full day of exploration. Because land-based explorations are limited to the five islands that can be reached in one day, travelers won’t be able to visit the more distant islands that boat-based itineraries include.
Unless you’re terrified of sailing, suffer from seasickness, or hate the idea of being on a boat for a week, consider booking a cruise. You’ll waste less time running back and forth and see as many distinct areas of the Galápagos Islands as possible.
Boat Tours
Most live-aboard boats offer five- to eight-day itineraries, with set departure dates and routes. Routes are dictated by Galápagos National Park officials to mitigate crowding and environmental stress. Your boat will provide a northern or southern itinerary (sometimes called eastern and western itineraries), alternating weekly. Both include wonderful land excursions, plenty of time in the water, and ample opportunities to see the famous flora and fauna of the Galápagos.
Best Hotels and Resorts
A wide range of hotels can be found on Santa Cruz Island and San Cristóbal Island, and several boats operate out of harbors on those islands as well. Be sure to choose a hotel near the harbor (not in the highlands) to stay close to the boat’s boarding spot for day trips.
For example, the 19-room Golden Bay Galapagos is situated right on the harbor of San Cristóbal Island. You can watch sea lions cavort on a small beach directly in front of the property, and day-trip boats leave from a dock that’s no more than a three-minute walk away. Book the corner suite, which features a living-room bathtub and glass walls that slide open to eliminate all barriers between you and nature outside. Meanwhile, the Angermeyer Waterfront Inn is located right on Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz Island. The hotel has cleverly fashioned its newest room inside a beached wooden boat.
Alternatively, choose a hotel that owns and operates its own boats to ensure a seamless standard of service and the most practical and convenient itineraries. The unparalleled Pikaia Lodge, located in the highlands of Santa Cruz Island, has its own boat used exclusively for guests on packages that include both land and sea adventures.
The Finch Bay Galapagos Hotel, set in Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz Island, also has its yacht, named Sea Lion. This vessel can hold up to 20 passengers plus two guides, providing itineraries that encompass all five islands that day-trip boats can visit.
Last-minute deals are sometimes available for travelers willing to search for sales upon arrival. However, due to the popularity of the Galápagos Islands, it’s advisable to book well in advance, especially for dive boats which tend to fill up fast.
Best Restaurants
As you can imagine, the seafood in the Galápagos Islands is extremely fresh, and the islands have many fine dining establishments to cater to hungry visitors. You’ll find a range of dining options across the islands’ main hubs, many associated with hotels, such as the Finch Bay Restaurant in Santa Cruz, which blends local Ecuadorian cuisine with international style. Another popular restaurant is the FraFre GastroBar, where the fish is served with a regional flair that’s popular among locals and tourists. You’ll also find more casual eateries like the humorously named Booby Trap that serves fish tacos and pizza on Isabela Island alongside wonderful oceanfront views.
If you are looking for a memorable meal in Quito, Zazu is the only Relais & Châteaux restaurant in Ecuador. For a more casual experience, head to its sibling restaurant Zfood, which replicates a Hamptons-style fish-shack vibe, with seafood reigning supreme. At Urko, chef and owner Daniel Maldonado focuses on showcasing Ecuadorian ingredients and flavors, making the tasting menu a fantastic way to experience cocina local.
Things to Do
Aside from observing the fabulous animals above and below the water, you can incorporate many other striking landscapes into your adventures. If you want to island-hop, you can coordinate visits to these sites yourself, but if you’re on a cruise, you might have to follow a pre-planned itinerary.
Throughout the islands, enjoy the white sands of beaches like Tortuga Bay and Puerto Villamil, or take the adventurous route by hiking to the top of the Sierra Negra Volcano, an active shield volcano that last erupted in 2018, providing a dazzling view for offshore boaters. For something more tame, you can pay your respects at the Charles Darwin Research Station in Puerto Ayora, which has been used as a scientific base since 1964 and features an exhibition hall, gardens, and a public library.
Best Islands to Visit
There are 127 islands that make up this tropical archipelago, but only about 20 are frequently visited by tourists, and only four have major populations. Isabela Island is the largest of these, but despite its size, it has fewer residents than Santa Cruz, which has approximately 12,000 inhabitants between the towns of Puerto Ayora and Santa Rosa. When you fly into the Galápagos, you will most likely arrive through Baltra Island, which is separated from Santa Cruz by a short ferry ride. Meanwhile, the province’s capital is located on San Cristóbal Island.
Booking a live-aboard boat trip will give you more opportunities to explore the diverse islands in this enchanted archipelago. However, if a particular attraction or animal captures your attention, you may want to seek out specific sites like Bartolomé Island, known for its unique volcanic rock formations, and Española Island, where the waved albatross nests at Punta Suarez. If you’re interested in the history of human discovery, Floreana Island was the first to be visited by people. Here, you can learn about the seamen who sailed into these waters and the fascinating postal system they set up using a wooden barrel. Bird-watchers particularly enjoy Genovesa Island, where frigatebirds and red-footed boobies are frequently spotted. For Galápagos penguins and flightless cormorants, the sparsely vegetated Fernandina Island is another popular destination.
Packing Tips
A trip to the Galápagos is a big adventure, so you should come prepared with the right clothes and tools to face the elements. It may be tough to find what you need once you arrive on the islands — especially if you are spending most of your time at sea — so we’ve broken it down into essential categories.
Clothes
Basic supplies are available at small shops on both San Cristóbal and Santa Cruz islands, but prices are high and the selection is limited. It’s best to have the essentials with you, including sturdy closed-toe walking shoes with durable soles. Although land excursions are generally short and trails tame, you may encounter jagged volcanic rock and other obstacles at times. You will also want sandals or flip-flops to wear in towns and on boats. Leave the heels at home, especially if you’ve booked a boat-based itinerary. Even the most luxurious boats have narrow, steep stairways that are hard to navigate safely (or gracefully) in heels.
You’ll also want rain gear and good weather protection for your camera, as you will be traveling on boats and in dinghies, with rain showers possible at any time. If you’re exploring an island when wet weather rolls in, there will be no place to shelter from the rain.
Health and Comfort
Stock up on insect repellent and water-resistant, high-SPF sunscreen. As you might have guessed, Ecuador is on the equator, which magnifies the strength of the sun’s rays, and most Galápagos excursions are fully exposed. We recommend purchasing reef-safe sunscreen to help protect the coral, animals, and waters around the islands. A hat with a brim for sun protection during land excursions is also recommended. If you plan to participate in kayaking and snorkeling excursions, a rash guard is useful for sun protection. When water temperatures are colder, a wet suit will typically be provided. If you have fins, a mask, and a snorkel that you love, bring them with you, as snorkeling gear is provided but varies in quality and cleanliness.
Seas are generally calm, and boat captains take great care in choosing protected spots for anchoring. However, if you’re prone to motion sickness, bring some Dramamine. Prescription preventions like scopolamine patches work well, too, but note that scopolamine is generally not available for sale in Latin America. Bring a reusable water bottle so you can fill it for day-long excursions and reduce your plastic waste.
Money
There are ATMs available on Santa Cruz and San Cristóbal islands, but they can run out of cash, so bring some with you to cover tips. Credit cards are often accepted at shops and restaurants. The official currency of Ecuador is the U.S. dollar.
What Not to Bring
The introduction of non-native plant species is considered a top environmental threat to the Galápagos Islands, so do not bring any fruits, vegetables, or plants of any kind with you. Anything that might have seeds or spores clinging to it, such as the soles of your shoes and any outdoor gear or camping equipment, should be washed and thoroughly inspected before being brought to the islands. The threat of invasive plant species is so serious that visitors arriving in the Galápagos have to sign an affidavit swearing they are not bringing in any food, animals, seeds, or unclean camping gear.
Park Fees
In 2012, Ecuador’s then-president Rafael Correa abolished fees at national parks and reserves in the country. However, Galápagos National Park was not part of that exemption and still requires a $100 entrance fee per person, payable only in cash upon arrival at either airport in the Galápagos Islands. Additionally, each visitor must buy a $20 transit card, which is also payable only in cash at the airport. The transit card is a measure of immigration control, so all visitors must purchase one at the airport upon arrival and return it when they leave. If you’re booked on a tour, your tour operator might take care of this for you, but it’s better to inquire ahead of time.
Before Visiting the Galápagos Islands
With the anticipation building for your trip, you may be looking for resources to immerse yourself in the spirit of an adventurous naturalist. Here are some recommendations for what to read and watch to prepare for your visit:
- My Father’s Island by Johanna Angermeyer: This account of the author’s German ancestors, who were among the first to settle on Santa Cruz Island, offers valuable insights into the challenges and triumphs of early settlers.
- The Galapagos Affair: Satan Came to Eden: This documentary uses archival material to recount a real-life murder mystery involving settlers on Floreana Island in the 1930s, narrated by Cate Blanchett.
- On the Origin of Species by Charles Darwin: This classic work is essential reading to understand Darwin’s foundational theory of evolution, inspired in part by his observations in the archipelago.
