We’ve all seen the Instagram photos – turquoise colors of Lake Louise, vibrant Banff National Park hiking trails, and waterfalls aplenty. But what happens when the snow flies and it all freezes? That’s when the ski hills open, the lakes turn to rinks, and Alberta, Canada, is transformed into a winter wonderland like no other.
The best part? You have it almost all to yourself in this undiscovered season. Winter’s adventure runs deeper than the snow is high. This is where you need to go to find the best of Alberta on ice.
Editor’s note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and always follow government advice.
Scenic Drives and Ice Bubbles
The Icefields Parkway connecting Banff and Jasper National Parks is famed for its glacier-capped peaks, wildlife, and rugged landscape. Moreover, it’s the best and only scenic route to travel between Banff and Jasper. In the summer, tourists flock to this beautiful drive, but come winter, you’ll likely see fewer than 10 cars in 3 hours. Consequently, pack a lunch, fill up your gas, and get ready to experience a side of Alberta that is rarely seen. Scenic viewpoints include Athabasca Falls, the Columbia Icefield, Bow Lake, and several pull-outs along the way.
Halfway between Jasper and Lake Louise is the turnoff for Highway 11 toward Abraham Lake. Here, methane ice bubbles are trapped in the water as it freezes, creating an ice bubble phenomenon with highly Instagrammable photos.
Maligne Canyon Icewalk
In summer, Maligne Canyon is an impassable torrent of glacial melt carving its way through limestone in a flow that even expert kayakers find daunting. However, in winter, it becomes the Rockies’ most unique hike and an ice climber’s dream. To explore the Maligne Canyon Icewalk, a guided experience is recommended. Sundog Tours provides access to these frozen waterfalls, allowing you to safely traverse the area while wearing ice cleats.
Rocky Mountain Skiing
Four Canadian ski resorts set themselves apart by being within two national parks, protected playgrounds where powder days are common and views of glaciers remind adventurers of ancient ice ages that sculpted the peaks beneath your skis. The uncrowded slopes offer lift ticket prices significantly lower than competing resorts in the United States. Ski or ride Jasper National Park’s Marmot Basin or Banff National Park’s Mt. Norquay, Sunshine Village, and Lake Louise Ski Resort with a tri-area lift pass at Ski Big 3.
Ice Climbing at Johnston Canyon
Johnston Canyon is also a famous summer hiking spot in Banff National Park, transforming into a series of frozen waterfalls along an elevated pathway that spirals alongside the canyon. Crystal-clear water flows over and under the ice, constantly redefining its path based on daily temperatures. Yamnuska Mountain Adventures offers various introductory ice climbing courses throughout the Banff area, with few locations as scenic as Johnston Canyon.
Stargazing at the Jasper Dark Sky Preserve
Jasper National Park is among the world’s largest dark sky preserves. At the Jasper Planetarium, witness a night sky illuminated by countless stars. If you’re fortunate, you may even glimpse the northern lights. This experience begins in a 50-seat outdoor domed theater where astronomers unveil the night sky through local aboriginal constellations and scientific storytelling. After the virtual tour, observe real stars and planets using the most powerful telescopes in the Rockies, followed by fireside s’mores and hot chocolate.
Chasing Auroras throughout the Province
The Aurora Borealis becomes easier to spot in winter due to shorter days. For the best chances to see the dancing purple and green lights, seek low moonlight, clear skies, and a strong solar storm. To keep track of the Aurora forecast and where the lights may shine, visit auroraforecast.com. Depending on your location in Alberta, ideal spots for aurora viewing include Elk Island National Park near Edmonton, wide-open areas at Lake Minnewanka close to Banff, or virtually anywhere in Jasper.
Backcountry Lodge Life
Off the grid and off the beaten path, Sundance Lodge in Banff National Park is a winter escape reachable via fat bike (off-road bicycles with oversized tires), cross-country ski, or snowshoe. No matter your mode of transport, a warm fire, digital detox, and a unique Canadian culinary experience await your arrival.
Front Country Lodge Convenience
For those who seek full-day adventures along with backcountry luxury, Banff offers winter front-country lodges accessible by car. Baker Creek Mountain Resort and Storm Mountain Lodge (re-opening April 2021) provide the quintessential Canadian log cabin experience in the seemingly remote wilds of the Rockies. Both lodges feature Canadian cuisine using local ingredients, a cozy fireplace in your cabin, and essential amenities like a clawfoot tub or a jacuzzi suite to unwind after a day in the Rockies.
Rewarding and Unwinding at Kananaskis Nordic Spa
Alberta’s only Nordic spa welcomes sore adventurer muscles to its five pools (from hot and warm to cold), four saunas (banya, Finnish, and barrels), two steam rooms (alchemist and eucalyptus), an exfoliation cabin, and heated hammocks. Located at the newly renovated Pomeroy Kananaskis Lodge at the base of Nakiska Ski Resort (opening November 6), this area is often overlooked compared to the larger Banff National Park. Enjoy activities like guided snowshoeing, fat biking, or cross-country skiing with Kananaskis Outfitters, go skating at the lodge, ski downhill at Nakiska, or simply toast marshmallows outside.
This article was originally published December 2018. It was updated November 2020.
This article was first published Dec 4, 2018, and updated Nov 2, 2020.
