Summary
Whether navigating exhilarating black runs beneath the towering shadow of Mont Blanc, engaging in ski touring among the glistening, jagged peaks, or skiing through idyllic forests, France offers an unparalleled diversity of skiing options suitable for all skill levels, preferences, and financial considerations.
The peak winter ski season in the renowned French Alps, the quieter Pyrenees, and the laid-back Jura Mountains typically spans from mid-December to April. The alpine resorts at the highest elevations, including Val Thorens (Europe’s highest ski area and recipient of the World’s Best Ski Resort award for the eighth time at the 2023 World Ski Awards), Tignes, and Les Deux Alpes, are the first to welcome skiers, generally opening from mid to late November, contingent upon snowfall. Limited downhill skiing opportunities exist on glaciers exceeding 3,000m (9,842ft) in Tignes and Les Deux Alpes, providing ideal conditions for several precious weeks from mid-June to early August. However, with each passing year, rising temperatures and glacial retreat increasingly shorten the summer skiing window.
The holiday seasons during Christmas, New Year, and February school breaks are known as peak periods; during this time, expect elevated transport and accommodation costs, crowded venues, and extensive lines for ski lifts. It is advisable to plan ahead and secure arrangements months in advance to ensure your preferred options of location (charming alpine village, car-free settlement, purpose-built resort) and lodging (mountain hut with bunks, family-run hotel, self-catering chalet, or luxurious lodging with hot tubs and breathtaking views of snow-capped peaks).
To mitigate carbon emissions, consider taking the train to the French Alps and utilizing public transportation or local ride-sharing services such as BlaBlaCar or Morzine Co-Voiturage for the final stretch from the train station to the slopes. From the UK, overnight travel can be deemed convenient aboard the TravelSki Express, which travels through Lille to Bourg St-Maurice; alternatively, the once-weekly Eurostar Snow Train operates to Lille and continues to Chambéry, Albertville, Moûtiers, Brides-les-Bains, Aime-la-Plagne, and Bourg-St-Maurice. Alternatively, combine a standard Eurostar train to Paris or Lille with SNCF TGV and regional trains. For travelers considering rail options to the Alps, Snowcarbon serves as the definitive rail planning resource.
1. Morzine-Avoriaz
Optimal for Eco-Conscious Skiers
The ecological impact of a resort is increasingly significant to discerning skiers. Morzine-Avoriaz stands out with its sustainably powered chalet accommodations via renewable energy sources, alongside electric vehicle services and car-sharing options, zero-waste initiatives, and plant-based dining offerings. Skiers can rent ski attire in Morzine from Crevasse Clothing, relish artisanal dishes highlighting local ingredients at Avoriaz’s stylish hotel-restaurant MiL8, or savor mountain-foraged meals prepared by private forager-chef Blossom & Weeds. The day commences with zero-waste coffee, roasted locally by Cafés Vorlaz, and culminates with local craft beers at Morzine’s innovative microbrewery, Bec Jaune. Both resorts, accessible by train to Cluses or Geneva followed by a shared transfer, proudly hold the Flocon Vert (“Green Snowflake”) designation, awarded to 15 resorts in France for their sustainability efforts.
The family-friendly Portes du Soleil ski area (400km/249mi of ski runs) provides an excellent skiing experience for all skill levels. Morzine, known for its vibrant après-ski culture, features charming traditional wooden chalets and slate-roofed buildings. Situated at a snow-sure elevation of 1,800m (5,906ft), ski-in-ski-out Avoriaz is a whimsical, car-free village characterized by striking 1960s avant-garde architecture and picturesque, snow-draped streets where horse-drawn carriages add to its charm.
Accessing Morzine-Avoriaz: Geneva, located in neighboring Switzerland, is the nearest airport, approximately a 90-minute drive away. The Altibus shuttle service provides transport from Cluses train station to Morzine within 30 minutes; rail travelers enjoy a 10% discount on ski passes with the AlpinExpress Pass.
2. Megève
Optimal for Luxury and Culinary Experiences
A well-established jewel of the Chamonix Valley, this upscale village resort, featuring its baroque old town and an elegant array of horse-drawn carriages, was conceptualized in the 1920s by the alpine adventurer Baroness Noémie de Rothschild. It continues to captivate Parisians, epicureans, and affluent families.
This unique French ski destination boasts three Michelin-starred gastronomic establishments, featuring renowned chefs such as Emmanuel Renaut and Anne-Sophie Pic, alongside winter editions of St-Tropez’s famed Le Café and Paris’s sophisticated Le Piaf cocktail bar.
Dining experiences on the slopes are remarkable, with rustic chalets d’alpage, historically serving shepherds during summer months, adorning the family-friendly trails in the Évasion Mont Blanc ski area. Some of these chalets feature delightful Savoyard cuisine. Highlights include toasted Comté, gooey tartiflette, and local blueberry tart at Chalet Le Forestier or Auberge du Bonjournal. A memorable lunch awaits at the Alps’ oldest high-altitude eatery, Chalet Sauvage, or indulge in après-ski with truffle pizza and oysters at L’Idéal 1850.
Accessing Megève: Secure shared or private bus transfers from Geneva airport through Megevexpress. Buses connect the resort to Sallanches train station, located 12km (7.5 miles) to the south.
3. Espace Killy
Optimal for Families (Especially Teens)
Vast in size and diversity, Espace Killy in the upper Tarentaise Valley is a premier all-around destination. Offering an extensive range of off-piste descents alongside gentle green and beginner-friendly slopes, this extraordinary ski area caters to all ages and abilities. At the core of this experience are the renowned resorts of Val d’Isère and Tignes. Although higher costs are associated with these popular resorts, they offer world-class amenities, an extensive selection of accommodations and dining options, as well as vibrant nightlife: the legendary Folie Douce has been a lively outdoor hotspot since 1982, igniting aprés-ski parties with live performances and DJs.
Tignes, located by a frozen lake, offers various activities for thrill-seekers. Children can explore snow labyrinths and igloos, engage in ice skating, and try curling. Teenagers can challenge themselves with ski jumps or the exhilarating Bun J Ride, which simulates bungee jumping into a 40m (131ft) drop. Ice diving and floating present additional unique experiences.
Accessing Tignes: Travel by bus 83 from Bourg St-Maurice train station to Tignes takes approximately one hour; Transdev Savoie also provides bus services to Geneva and Lyon airports.
4. St-Martin de Belleville
Optimal for Charming Village Atmosphere
Adorned with its stunning steepled church and picturesque traditional Savoyard homes, this authentic village nestled in the Tarentaise Valley is reminiscent of a classic storybook. Skiers can easily access the snowy slopes at 1,450m (4,757ft), which are seamlessly linked by lifts to the reliable Trois Vallées – the largest ski area globally, comprised of four valleys and 600km (373 miles) of slopes. Its seven resorts include the British-favorite Méribel, sky-high Val Thorens, family-friendly Les Menuires, and high-end Courchevel, where the elite assemble. Skiing is accessible for various levels; intermediate and experienced skiers will find ample excitement. In the quaint St-Martin de Belleville, enjoy traditional dishes like diots (local sausages cooked in white wine) accompanied by live accordion music at the historic Le Trait d’Union, a reminder of rural Savoie ambiance.
Other charming ski villages include: Les Gets and St-Jean d’Aulps (Portes du Soleil); Lanslebourg-Mont Cenis, Lanslevillard, and Bonneval in the backcountry of Val Cénis.
Accessing St-Martin de Belleville: From Moûtiers, the nearest train station, Transdev Savoie operates bus services to all resorts within Trois Vallées. Airport transfers are available through Altibus.
5. Hirmentaz-Bellevaux
Optimal for Cost-Conscious Skiers
Little-known Hirmentaz nestled in Haute-Savoie’s Vallée Verte ranks among the smallest resorts, featuring 25 slopes and 15 lifts suited for beginners and intermediate skiers. With a lower altitudinal designation of 1,100m (3,609ft), snow conditions can be inconsistent, and the operational season is brief. However, budget-conscious skiers will find it remarkably affordable, as a single-day ski pass costs €25.60 (or €22.50/€14.60 for five hours starting after 3pm), in stark contrast to the €67 for neighboring Chamonix (not offering a half-day option).
Popular among local families, children can easily access the slopes as they exit their vehicles. Ski rental shops are conveniently located nearby, and the crepes served on the slope-facing terrace of Hôtel Les Skiers are among the most economical in the Alps. Additional budget-friendly resorts in the region include Bernex (featuring lovely forest trails) and Thollon-les-Mémises (boasting sweeping views of Lake Geneva).
Accessing Hirmentaz: Private transportation is necessary to reach Hirmentaz, situated one hour’s drive from Geneva airport. Alternatively, consider using the BlaBlaCar app for shared transportation.
6. Chamonix
Optimal for Seasoned Skiers
Rich in alpinist history and characterized by abundant ski trails, this historic town in Haute-Savoie’s Chamonix Valley is nothing short of spectacular. Towering mountains surround the area, peaking with Mont Blanc (4,805m/15,766ft) – the highest point in Europe – and the Aiguille du Midi (3,842m/12,605ft), accessible year-round via cable car. Here, accomplished skiers can traverse crevasse-laden glaciers with an experienced guide along the 20km-long (12.4mi) Vallée Blanche – a renowned off-piste descent.
Adventurers seeking challenging terrains will find steep slopes, moguls, and powder at the Grands Montets ski region in Argentière and can tackle the renowned black runs at Les Houches; the vertical Kandahar slope situated on the Verte des Houches piste is of legend. The sunny slopes of Brévent-Flégère also provide outstanding options for skilled skiers. After a day on the mountains, unwind in a soothing spa with panoramic views at QC Terme.
Chamonix’s downtown area is additionally dynamic, with abundant opportunities for dining and shopping. Don’t overlook local delicacies such as raclette and various cheeses at the boutique of the dairy cooperative Coopérative Fruitière en Val d’Arly (93 rue Whymper) and the most delightful gauffres (waffles) made to order at Gauffres de Chamonix (65 rue Whymper), a humble wooden street hut serving these treats since 1965. For dinner, secure a reservation at the trendy Mumma.
Accessing Chamonix: Trains provide connections from downtown Chamonix to various destinations across France. The quickest option to/from Geneva Airport is via private or shared bus transfers with Alpybus.
7. Alpe d’Huez
Optimal for Festival Enthusiasts
Alpe d’Huez is renowned for its reliable snow conditions, ample intermediate runs, and the impressively long La Sarenne black run – a dramatic 16km (10mi) descent (insider tip: catch the sunset on the last run from the Pic Blanc cable car). The resort’s steep, winding road featuring 21 hairpin bends often figures as a highlight in the Tour de France. Festival-goers will revel in the opportunity to dance to live house, techno, and varied electronic music performed by esteemed artists across multiple indoor and outdoor stages, including some at altitudes of 3,300m, during the week-long Tomorrowland Winter Festival each March.
Other unmissable musical events in the snow include: Snowboxx (Avoriaz), Rock the Pistes (Portes du Soleil), and Rise Festival (Les Deux Alpes).
Accessing Alpe d’Huez: Altibus offers bus transfers from Geneva airport. Remarkably affordable round-trip trips by coach from Grenoble bus station with Transaltitude start at €20, inclusive of a one-day lift pass.
8. Métébief Mont d’Or
Optimal for Cross-Country Skiers
Skiing is experienced at a slower, more serene pace in the tranquil Jura Mountains, stretching northeast from Lake Geneva to Belfort along the Franco-Swiss border. Here, cheese production, cross-country skiing, and the sweet sound of cowbells define the rhythm of life. Skiers can enjoy 214km (133 miles) of cross-country trails centered around Métébief Mont d’Or. One lift serves downhill skiing options, transporting guests to the summit of Mont d’Or (1,463m/4,800ft), where sweeping vistas of Lake Geneva, the Matterhorn, and Mont Blanc are revealed on the horizon. After an exhilarating day, warm up with a fiery shot of local liqueur de sapin (pine tree liqueur).
Additional picturesque cross-country skiing destinations include: Autrans in the Massif du Vercors (Isère); Domaine du Chioula, located an hour’s drive from Toulouse (Ariège).
Accessing Métébief Mont d’Or: Personal transportation is needed to access Métébief, as it is only reachable by car.
What to Know Before Your French Ski Trip
Assess the ski proficiency within your party and align it with the most suitable station de ski. If the goal is to step straight from your lodging onto the slopes, opt for a resort at a higher altitude, ideally around 2,000m, which typically ensures consistent snow coverage and provides primarily ski-in-ski-out accommodations.
Your two largest expenses will likely be accommodation and forfaits de ski (lift passes). The farther ski lodgings are from the lifts, the more reasonably priced they tend to be, and similarly, ski passes are generally cheaper in smaller, lower-altitude resorts. Overall, optimize your ski experience by purchasing or reloading reusable smartcard ski passes in advance online, thereby minimizing both wait times and expenses.
Consider saving significant amounts on equipment rentals while simultaneously being environmentally conscious: in the UK, you can rent or purchase pre-owned gear from Ecoski before your journey. Numerous sports shops in these ski resorts offer rentals for skis, boots, and helmets; however, it is wise to reserve online beforehand.
Skiing for Free or on a Budget
With one- to six-day lift passes priced between €25 for Hirmentaz-Bellevaux to €75 for Courchevel, widely recognized as France’s most upscale resort, undertaking the challenge of skiing without lifts can be a cost-effective choice. Most downhill resorts offer designated routes for ski de randonnée (ski touring), often featuring stunning scenery. Equipment rental for touring gear is also available through local shops.
Typically, children under five can ski downhill without cost across most resorts, as can seniors aged 72 or 75. Many resorts offer a 40% discount on one-day ski passes on Saturdays; this represents an incredible value, particularly since Saturday is generally recognized as the quietest ski day of the week, coinciding with traditional “changeover” periods.
And If You Don’t Ski?
If skiing is not your activity of choice, that’s perfectly acceptable. Many resorts provide pedestrian passes for winter hikers, allowing them to reach higher altitude trails by means of lifts for exploration on foot or using snowshoes. An array of outdoor activities that can be experienced without skiing are now available, including ice diving, fat biking (snow cycling), extreme sledding, ice climbing, zip lining, dog sledding with huskies, and even skydiving – there truly are no limitations on winter fun.
This article was initially published on January 4, 2022, and updated on December 6, 2023.
