Explore the Best Onsen Experience in Oita, Japan

Lowering yourself into a steaming outdoor bath filled with rejuvenating natural hot-spring water; soaking your muscles while gazing up at clear daytime skies or glistening twilight stars; relaxing in the serenity of nature – there’s no doubt about it: when you go to Japan, you must visit an onsen.

If it’s a genuine onsen experience you’re after, look no further than Oita. Located in the northeastern part of Kyushu, the prefecture boasts the highest number of natural hot-spring sources in all of Japan. Here’s how to find the best spots and get prepared for the adventure.

Nature’s Gift

Onsen are natural hot-spring pools, located in the thousands across Japan due to the country’s ample volcanic activity. For centuries, people have journeyed to onsen towns with the belief that the mixture of minerals in the water has medicinal effects. To be classified as an onsen, a hot spring must contain at least one of 19 designated chemical elements and be warmer than 25 degrees Celsius upon emerging from the ground.

Onsen come in many different shapes, sizes, and forms, from completely natural pools to indoor and outdoor baths in hotels, ryokans, and spas. Rotenburo refers to outside baths, often providing authentic and memorable experiences with beautiful views. Small pools known as ashiyu allow visitors to soak their feet, making it accessible for all.

Onsen Etiquette

Visiting an onsen is undoubtedly one of the most unique and rewarding experiences available in Japan. However, it can be a bit intimidating for the uninitiated.

First and foremost, it’s important to understand the country’s relationship with tattoos. Body art in Japan historically has been associated with criminality, and many onsen do not permit bathers with tattoos. Nevertheless, this trend is changing, with some establishments now embracing a ‘tattoo friendly’ policy. Oita, for instance, has a rich history of accepting tattooed visitors.

Basic etiquettes at an onsen include showering before entering the bath, as facilities will typically be provided. Showers are equipped with stools and buckets for washing with soap and water. Additionally, standing while bathing is generally considered rude, so it is advisable to sit. Most onsen offer separate bathing areas for males and females, or designate specific times for each to bathe. Moreover, bathing suits are usually not allowed—expect a completely nude experience. While this may seem daunting initially, you’ll soon appreciate the freedom and relaxation it offers.

Large towels are left in changing rooms while smaller hand towels can be used for modesty as you enter the bath. It’s important to note that towels should not enter the water; instead, place them off to the side or on your head. Long hair should be tied back to prevent it from entering the water. Additionally, as hot spring temperatures can be high, enter the onsen slowly. Remember to hydrate before and after your soak, as the heat can make you light-headed. Once you’re in, relax! Baths often serve as social hubs, where people can be seen chatting quietly or enjoying blissful silence.

Oita’s Offerings

Beppu ranks among the most popular and well-loved onsen spots in all of Japan. With eight designated onsen areas, it has thrived as a resort destination since ancient times. Onsen here feature eight different types of special springs, categorized for their therapeutic properties, including chloride, hydrogen carbonate, sulphate, iron, and sulphur springs.

Located in the city’s downtown, Takegawara Onsen dates back to the Meiji Period, making it a local icon. The experience here is simple yet intense, as guests scoop water with buckets before pouring it over themselves and jumping in. The facility also offers a sand bath where visitors lie down and are buried up to their necks in heated sand.

Near the beach, Kitahama Termas Onsen offers a large hot spring facility with a variety of bathing options, including jacuzzis, steam baths, mist saunas, outdoor baths, and utase-yu (waterfall baths). The ‘outdoor health bath’ offers mixed-gender bathing where customers wear bathing suits.

The neighboring Yufu City is also home to attractive resorts like Yufuin Onsen and Yunohira Onsen, with myriad options in the regions surrounding Beppu. Further west in the Yamanami area lies the Ukenokuchi Onsen at Ryokan Shinseikan, featuring golden water amid lush trees. Below Yufu, Nagayu Hot Spring Town offers Gani-yu, a rustic mixed-gender outdoor bath along the river, which, although open 24 hours, lacks any facilities—remember to bring towels!

Welcome to ‘Hells’

For those eager to explore another aspect of onsen culture, the jigoku meguri or Beppu Hell Circuit presents a series of seven extreme hot-spring locations that have become popular tourist attractions.

This circuit is divided into two groups, with five at Kannawa (over 4 km northwest of Beppu Station) and two approximately 2.5 km to the north. The former includes the impossibly blue Umi Jigoku (Sea Hell); Oniishibōzu Jigoku, where the bubbling mud resembles a monk’s shaved head; Shira-ike Jigoku; and Kamado Jigoku, which was once used for cooking (with kamado meaning stove in Japanese). Notably, Umi Jigoku, Chinoike Jigoku (Blood Pond Hell), Tatsumaki Jigoku (Tornado Hell), and Shiraike Jigoku (White Pond Hell) are recognized as National Scenic Beauties for their aesthetics and distinctive colors.

Culinary Curiosities

Aside from bathing, the hot, mineral-rich waters of onsen are also employed to create unique dishes. Onsen cuisine (Jigoku-mushi Ryori) has its roots in the Edo Period, with visitors today able to participate in experiences that showcase different dishes.

A notable specialty found in many towns is the onsen tamago, an egg slow-cooked in the water and steam. Additionally, a popular post-bath custom includes drinking milk-based beverages such as fruit gyuunyuu (fruit milk) or coffee gyuunyuu (coffee milk). Many towns offer drinkable springs, such as the Colonade in Taketa City.