Marseille’s unique charms have transformed it into a destination unlike anywhere else in L’hexagone – a kaleidoscope of jaunty street art, rugged scenery, busy cafes, and bustling markets, from the glittering port to the colorful neighborhoods.
But where to stay in this captivating coastal city? Here’s a look at some of Marseille’s most intriguing enclaves and what to expect in each one.
Le Panier: The Heart of Historic Charm
As Marseille’s oldest neighborhood, Le Panier epitomizes the city’s historical allure. Adorned with green hanging baskets and sky-blue shutters, its narrow streets rise and fall, while Victorian-era streetlights create a romantic ambiance. Cozy corner cafes and whimsical street art enhance its charm.
Located just north of the Old Port, Le Panier lacks a singular monumental attraction; however, the impressive Byzantine facade of Cathédrale de la Major is nearby, inviting exploration of the district.
Start your journey with a coffee and warm buttery croissant from Les délices de l’évêché on Rue de l’évêché, then delve into the neighborhood’s restaurants. The arched stone dining room at Place Lorette serves tantalizing Moroccan delights such as chicken tagines and pastillas. Discover chef Nadjat Bacar’s seasonal chalkboard menu at Douceur Piquante for a taste of the Comoros Islands.
Vieux Port: Seductive Scenes and Vibrant Bars
Exploring the relentlessly vibrant Vieux Port is essential. The sight of bobbing white boat masts against the shimmering Mediterranean is arguably Marseille’s most iconic view. The port is surrounded by bustling restaurants and bars, perfect for people-watching.
Near the fascinating Mucem, Les Artisanales du Vieux Port, situated on the harbor’s north side, hosts a summer craft market that features handmade jewelry and local craft beer until September. The M1 metro line conveniently serves this area, placing you just steps from boats offering daily trips to Château d’If and Les Calanques.
Embrace the Marseille spirit by sampling various pastis at the stylish craft-cocktail bar CopperBay. For dinner, head to low-key Ourea, where chef Matthieu Roche offers exquisite Provençal cuisine crafted from the freshest local ingredients. Wrap up your evening at Jasmin de Tunis for some of the best Tunisian pastries in the city.
Nouilles: A Market Lover’s Paradise
Home to the bustling Marché des Capucins, Nouilles embodies the vibrant chaos of Marseille. Spanning between Rue Saint-Ferreol and La Canabiére, the neighborhood showcases a rich tapestry of cultures and languages. Enjoy a coffee and croissant at family-run Cafe Prinder while watching the lively atmosphere unfold.
Once a haven for the local aristocracy, Nouilles now features busy streets filled with fresh floral aromas from colorful markets and the irresistible scents of sizzling North African bistros. Turkish cuisine also flourishes here, with Helin Kebab on Blvd Dugommier offering budget-friendly options and Epicerie L’Idéal on Rue d’Aubagne providing the freshest French ingredients alongside hearty sandwiches perfect for lunch. For the adventurous palate, La Mercerie Marseille presents a five-course “surprise” menu from Thursday to Monday.
Notre-Dame-du-Mont: The Nightlife Hub
With its vibrant graffiti, charming cafes, and intriguing side streets, the area around Cours Julien stands as one of Marseille’s jewels. Nestled in the Notre-Dame-du-Mont neighborhood, it offers a delightful retreat from the tourist-heavy spots of the Old Port.
Cours Julien truly shines during warm summer evenings, with stunning views down Rue Estelle that rival any Parisian neighborhood vista. La Brasserie Communale provides a convivial ambience perfect for enjoying artisanal beers while soaking in the area’s hedonistic spirit.
Across the square resides the inviting L’Escalié, featuring beautifully presented French tapas like tuna carpaccio. Separated by the art-splattered steps of the Escaliers des Cours Julien, the colorful Boteco Brasil serves Brazilian favorites alongside refreshing caipirinha cocktails.
Endoume: Breezy Coastal Escapes
For a refreshing change from the hustle of the Old Port, visit Endoume, a coastal neighborhood just a few kilometers south. Here, you’ll find Vallon des Auffes, a picturesque fishing village nestled between rocky cliffs, only accessible via narrow stairways.
For an authentic taste of bouillabaisse, visit Chez Fonfon’s at the village’s northeastern corner, famed for its rich broth of tomatoes, saffron, and five kinds of fish, a classic dish since 1952.
