Kunafeh, kanafeh, kunfah, konafeh, kunefe, knefe, kadayf… Regardless of how you spell it, this delicate pastry is ubiquitous in Jordan, found in crowded bazaars and dedicated bakeries alike. So cherished is kunafeh that in Amman, it has become a staple dessert for every social event.
Variations of kunafeh are enjoyed throughout the region, bordering on obsession. It’s easy to see why: imagine melt-in-your-mouth white brined cheese, drenched in sweet syrup infused with rose (or sometimes orange blossom) water, and topped with crushed pistachios for a harmoniously balanced flavor experience that melds savory and sweet, crunchy and soft, warm and cool. There are two main types of this delightful dessert: the bird’s nest-like khishnah kunafeh, with a hard crust made from wired kadaif noodles, and na’ama kunafeh, which features a softer semolina dough crust.
Like its various spellings, kunafeh has multiple origin stories. One popular tale traces the pastry back to Nablus, an ancient city in the Palestinian Territories, claiming that visitors have not truly experienced Nablus until they’ve savored its kunafeh. Over the centuries, this dessert has gained popularity across the Middle East and beyond. Notably, the Palestinian Territories, Syria, Lebanon, Iraq, Egypt, Turkey, Jordan, and even Greece each boast unique names, pronunciations, and recipes for this dessert.
With a large Palestinian community, Amman certainly knows a thing or two about kunafeh. The dessert bakeries here thrive, with long queues often forming for the beloved warm, crunchy cheese indulgence. On your next visit to this vibrant city, don’t miss the chance to sample the many varieties of Amman’s cherished sweet. Below is a selection of the finest kunafeh shops to explore in Jordan’s capital.
Habibah
Your kunafeh journey should kick off at Habibah. This iconic 70-year-old bakery is considered the best in Amman and boasts several locations throughout the city. For an authentic experience, visit the original outpost downtown near the Arab Bank. Nestled in a narrow alley between a newsstand and an internet café, the small shop is perpetually packed. Most of the space is dedicated to large metal trays of kunafeh, crafted using traditional Nabulsieh methods that include generous quantities of rose water syrup and delightfully stretchy Akkawi cheese. At Habibah, patrons sometimes request their kunafeh served inside a sweet sesame bun, transforming this dessert into an irresistible calorie-defying sugary sandwich.
Al Sahel Al Akhdar Sweets
Unless you’re a local, Al Sahel Al Akhdar might not be on your radar. Situated atop Jebel Al Ashrafiyeh, this spacious shop features long counters of kunafeh. It’s essential to savor not only the dessert but also the stunning views surrounding you. After placing your order with a friendly server, enjoy your kunafeh in a quiet courtyard with the grand black-and-white chequered mosque, Abu Darwish, rising majestically above the city. Once you’ve enjoyed your sugar fix, take a stroll around the neighborhood and revel in the expansive vistas of Amman.
Nafeeseh Sweets
Head to the heart of Amman at Jebel Amman Second Circle to experience the delightful Syrian kunafeh. Opened by a renowned Syrian brand, Nafeeseh Sweets offers an impressive array of traditional Arabic treats. Walking into the brightly lit shop feels like unwrapping exhilarating holiday presents, as the counters overflow with trays of hard- and soft-crust kunafeh, baklava, and other delectable Syrian sweets. The ambiance is lively, with the sounds of cutlery clinking as the predominantly Syrian staff serve multiple kunafeh plates at once. Be sure to try the madloo’a, a soft pistachio cream pastry with candied lemon, and don’t forget to grab a couple of packages of kunafeh to enjoy later.
Atir Dessert
As the newest contender in Amman’s kunafeh scene, Atir Dessert has quickly gained a loyal fanbase in just a few months since opening. Located in Jebel Lweibdeh, a favorite area among expats known for its vibrant arts and culture scene, Atir features an inviting atmosphere with distressed wood design and soothing decor that encourages guests to linger. Owners Jinan Dalloul and Fawwaz Soufan make sure every visitor feels at home. Here, you can enjoy kunafeh with a twist; in addition to traditional pistachios, they also offer toppings like ice cream, cream, or even Nutella. The highlight is watching your made-to-order kunafeh being baked fresh right before your eyes on an impressive eight-burner stove.
Al Aker Sweets
With main branches in Qatar’s capital, Doha, Al Aker Sweets has emerged as a surprising competitor in Amman’s kunafeh market. Located in the suburban Tla Al Ali district on the bustling Al Madina Al Munawarah St – often referred to as ‘hungry people’s street’ by locals due to its plethora of late-night restaurants and shops – Al Aker is certainly worth the journey. Some of the traditional pastries showcased here include warbat, a baklava-like treat filled with cream, and namoora, a drier variant of kunafeh made with semolina and cream. However, kunafeh will always be the star attraction at Al Aker. Regulars claim this establishment serves the closest rendition to the original Nablus recipe, with a pleasing balance between sweetness and saltiness that has garnered many admirers.
