I’ve been living in Prague for the better part of three decades. Over that time, I’ve witnessed breathtaking changes in the city’s food scene. It used to be that eating out in Prague meant stodgy plates of pork or beef and stale bread dumplings, all swimming in an indecipherable brown sauce. Thankfully, a new generation of chefs, inspired by both traditional recipes and fresh, international influences, is redefining the culinary landscape.
That said, it’s always a good idea to avoid restaurants that are on or around tourist traps. Many of these (with some notable exceptions) serve overpriced, mediocre food aimed at unsuspecting visitors. Instead, venture out of the center to the more inventive places detailed below and enjoy your meal seated alongside locals who are just as pleasantly surprised by the results as you will be.
Breakfast
Dining out for breakfast is still a relative novelty in Prague; Czechs typically start their day at home with a simple bread roll and a cup of coffee. A historic, early-20th-century sweetshop, Myšák, offers a traditional breakfast menu (including Viennese-style “poached eggs in a glass”) plus a mouthwatering assortment of Czech pastries. Don’t miss their buchty, sweet rolls served in custard sauce. In Dejvice, Šodó Bistro features freshly baked breads, pastries, and creative egg dishes, alongside satisfying bowls of fruit-topped granola and yogurt. Nearby, Místo boasts arguably Prague’s best-stuffed omelet, plus oven-warm bread and home-roasted beans for coffee-based drinks. For a hipster vibe, Karlín’s industrial-style bakery Eska puts a local spin on things with traditional Czech breakfast offerings like locally sourced ham and soft-boiled eggs.
Coffee
The worldwide coffee revolution is in full swing in Prague; every week brings a new espresso shop or coffee roaster. Many of the best can be found in the outlying neighborhoods of Karlín and Letná. Café Letka is a gorgeous space drenched in natural lighting, while Dos Mundos Café roasts its own sustainably sourced beans and serves an array of cakes and pastries. In Karlín, the popular Můj Šálek Kávy, run by a local specialty roaster, Doubleshot, offers an excellent choice for breakfast or lunch.
Lunch
Czechs typically consume their main meal at midday, and numerous restaurants offer daily lunch specials that are often at discounted rates. One standout is Hostinec na Výtoni, an upscale pub specializing in roast duck, a must-try local treat. Foodie destination Výčep, located in Vinohrady, provides modern interpretations of classic Czech dishes like pork schnitzel and potato dumplings at appealing lunchtime prices. For something quick and easy, KRO Kitchen in Vinohrady is loved for its locally sourced, rotisserie-cooked chicken. Mr. HotDog, in Letná, serves up mouthwatering sliders and hot dogs in a relaxed, welcoming atmosphere.
Brunch
Weekend brunches have emerged as a beloved culinary tradition. For those seeking international brunch staples, the high-end hotel Monkey Bar’s “Jungle Brunch” delivers exquisite options like eggs Benedict and smoked salmon. A more relaxed atmosphere can be found at Mama Shelter in Holešovice, which offers all-you-can-eat Sunday brunch on the terrace. In Karlín, Etapa serves a daily all-vegetarian brunch featuring ingredients sourced from across Czechia.
Dinner
When done well, traditional Czech cooking can be delightful. You can’t go wrong at either Kuchyň, near Prague Castle, or U Modré Kachničky (The Blue Duckling), in Malá Strana. Kuchyň’s modern, minimalist take showcases dishes like pork-neck schnitzel and beef shank with bread dumplings, elevating grandma’s cooking to high art. U Modré Kachničky exudes an elegant hunting lodge ambiance, with a menu rich in game, including venison and duck. Meanwhile, U Kroka offers classic mom-and-pop pub charm with superb renditions of schnitzel, goulash, and the Czech classic, svíčková (braised beef served in a cream sauce of root vegetables).
For a memorable splurge, consider Field, a Michelin-starred restaurant where chef Radek Kašpárek presents a unique fusion of classic Czech mains prepared with fresh local ingredients. However, you’ll need to plan well in advance to secure a reservation.
Pubs and Bars
Prague, at heart, is a beer town. Any self-respecting Czech pub will pour an excellent Pilsner-Urquell, brewed in the nearby city of Plzeň. Lokál on Dlouhá Street is a great place to taste this local favorite. Additionally, the classic U Fleků pub offers a quintessential experience, featuring some of the city’s best house-brewed dark beer. The growing craft-brew scene is hard to miss, with establishments like Dva Kohouti in Karlín serving delightful American Pale Ales in an open-air setting. Automat Matúška features local craft brews alongside delicious smoked meats.
For those interested in underrated Czech wines, Bokovka, an upscale wine bar hidden in a quaint courtyard, offers a fabulous selection from Moravia. For high-end cocktails, Hemingway Bar evokes a classic Hollywood film noir vibe. Café Bar Pilotů in the trendy Vršovice neighborhood showcases inventive cocktail creations, ensuring an exciting night out.
