Summary
Within the Vaucluse department of Provence lies Carpentras, a town rich in history and charm, with a captivating appeal evident on nearly every street. This unique town served as the capital of Comtat Venaissin, a Papal Enclave that remained distinct from France until the Revolution.
An intriguing aspect of Carpentras is its long-standing acceptance of the Jewish community, proudly housing the oldest active synagogue in France. The town is also celebrated for its exquisite black truffles, which are harvested from November to March and fetch remarkable prices at the weekly market.
Now, let us delve into the top attractions in Carpentras:
1. Carpentras Synagogue
The town has maintained a Jewish presence since 1276, during a time when many were expelled from France by Philip the Fair. This Papal Enclave was one of the few places offering Jewish individuals the freedom to practice their faith. The synagogue, established in 1367, is the oldest still in use in France.
Visitors can arrange a tour of the facility via the tourist office, which includes a journey through the basement featuring the mikvah bath for ritual cleansing. An antique matzo flatbread-making instrument is also on display.
The synagogue’s interior was renovated in the 18th century, showcasing a beautiful rococo design, complete with ornate chandeliers and columns.
2. Friday Market
Carpentras has been a hub for commerce since ancient times, where the Phocaeans and Greeks exchanged goods such as grains, honey, and livestock. The Friday market, established in the 1st century BC, is the oldest known in France, originally called Forum Neronis.
The market, a vital part of the town’s culture, fills its streets and squares with vibrant stalls every Friday morning, showcasing fresh produce and regional delicacies, including candied fruits and boiled sweets. During summer, strawberries, cherries, grapes, melons, and peaches are freshly sourced from local farms.
3. Black Truffle Market
During winter, Carpentras hosts a prestigious black truffle market every Friday morning. A private wholesale market operates in the courtyard of the Hôtel-Dieu, where these culinary treasures, referred to as “black diamonds,” command prices that soar into the thousands of Euros per kilogram.
From November to March, truffle stalls welcome the public outside the town’s tourist office from 08:00 to 12:00. The purchase of truffles involves a degree of etiquette and ceremony, as they are weighed using antique scales and carefully wrapped in paper.
These truffles are sourced from the oak forests on the slopes of Mont Ventoux, and are located with the assistance of trained dogs and pigs.
4. Carpentras Cathedral
This Church of Saint-Siffrein, constructed in the 15th century, lost its cathedral designation in 1801 following the abolition of the Diocese of Carpentras after the Revolution. Among its treasures is a horse bit from the 4th century, believed to have been made for Emperor Constantine’s horse and said to contain a nail from the cross of Jesus.
This relic is housed within a gilded reliquary located in the Oratoire de Saint-Mors. Additionally, a visit to the church reveals 11 chapels adorned with polychrome sculptures, 15th-century stained glass, and intricate marble altarpieces.
5. Passage Boyer
This covered arcade captures a slice of Paris in the centre of Carpentras. Established in 1848 during a time of widespread unemployment in France, the Passage Boyer emerged as part of the Ateliers Nationaux initiative aimed at engaging the labor force in ambitious construction projects.
Spanning 90 meters in length and 5 meters in width, this passage is adorned with a vaulted iron and glass canopy. Today, it is home to an array of stylish boutiques and specialty shops, exuding a refined Parisian atmosphere even after 170 years.
6. Musée Comtadin-Duplessis
This museum offers a deep dive into the art and culture of Comtat Venaissin, spanning from the 13th century until the Revolution. It showcases an array of ethnographic collections, including traditional attire, votive offerings, official seals, samples of local metalwork, and a bell from the Simon foundry.
For many, the highlight will be the art galleries featuring medieval Provençal primitives, pieces from the Italian School, and works by renowned French artists such as Hyacinthe Rigaud and Carl van Loo.
7. Porte d’Orange
This fortified gate, positioned to the north of the city center, is the best-preserved segment of an extensive 1770-meter defensive wall that once encircled Carpentras. Constructed by Pope Innocent VI in the latter half of the 14th century, the wall originally included 32 towers.
Most of these fortifications were demolished in the early 1800s to facilitate urban expansion. Towards the end of that century, the historical significance of this gate earned it the designation of “monument historique.” Interestingly, in 1791, the “commissaires royaux” entered Carpentras through this gate to integrate the Papal Enclave with the rest of France.
8. Arc de Carpentras
The Arc de Carpentras stands as one of the few remnants of the Roman settlement formerly known as Forum Neronis, likely constructed in the early 1st century during Emperor Tiberius’s reign. Although weathered, the arch still features a striking relief depicting two prisoners in chains—one clad in a bear skin tunic and the other adorned in Persian garments.
This artistic representation was intended to project the Roman Empire’s strength to newly subjugated territories.
9. Musée Sobirats
Situated in a narrow street of the old town, this mansion offers insight into the opulent lifestyle of the upper class in Comtat Venaissin prior to the Revolution. The interiors are rich with antique furniture from the Louis XV and Louis XVI periods, in addition to some remarkable pieces from the Napoleonic era.
The walls are adorned with 18th-century paintings and Aubusson tapestries, complemented by displays of faience originating from Marseille and Moustiers. Furthermore, the craftsmanship of the ironwork on the staircase and the gypsum plaster decorations on the Louis XV trumeau merits careful observation.
10. Hôtel-Dieu
Constructed in the 1750s in an exuberant Baroque style, the town’s historic hospital remained operational until 2002. Established by Bishop Joseph-Dominique d’Inguimbert, it left a lasting mark on the town by founding the esteemed Bibliothèque Inguimbertine, renowned among bibliophiles across France.
Constructed beyond the city walls to evade the unsanitary conditions of the old center, the apothecary inside has been preserved in its 18th-century splendor, complete with intricately carved cabinets and period medical jars.
A gallery within the entrance displays 281 paintings dedicated to the benefactors who contributed to the hospital over the years.
11. Palais de Justice
Visitors to the tourist office should inquire about guided tours of the courthouse that occupies a prominent position in the center of the town, typically available during school holidays. Originally used as the episcopal palace for the Bishops of Carpentras, this building also served as a gathering place for the nobility of Comtat Venaissin.
This Italian Baroque-style palace was constructed in the 17th century and richly adorned with sculptures, elegant plasterwork, and frescoes, many of which have endured since the Revolution, when the bishopric was dismantled.
12. La Charité
Additionally, visitors can explore another historic site: La Charité, which functioned as a shelter and hospital for the impoverished of Carpentras, established in 1669. Following renovations in the 1980s, this remarkable building, featuring a tower and a two-tiered gallery, boasts atmospheric stone vaults within.
Seven rooms within the arches are dedicated to art, theater, and the town’s Conservatory of Music and Dance. La Charité warrants a visit in its own right, regardless of whether one seeks to enjoy the art or performances on offer.
13. Carpentras Aquaduct
As is common in medieval towns, the fountains in Carpentras were constructed to supply residents with water for various needs. To ensure a consistent water supply from the Caromb springs, a Roman-style aqueduct was developed, initially taking shape in the 1400s but requiring remodeling in the early 1700s.
This task was entrusted to Antoine d’Allemand, also the architect behind the magnificent Hôtel-Dieu in Carpentras. Spanning over 700 meters across the Auzon River, this remarkable aqueduct features 48 arches.
14. Dentelles de Montmirail
Carpentras serves as an ideal base for a plethora of day trips, with the Dentelles de Montmirail to the north epitomizing the essence of Provence. This rugged mountain ridge stretches for eight kilometers and rises over a Mediterranean landscape adorned with cypress trees, Rhone Valley vineyards, and olive groves.
Its bare limestone walls beckon climbers, while others may simply appreciate the breathtaking views of the massif and surrounding countryside, accessible via hundreds of kilometers of walking and cycling trails.
15. Food and Drink
The region surrounding Carpentras has been cultivating wine grapes for over 2,000 years, with the Popes further expanding vineyards during the Middle Ages. Visitors can sample AOC Ventoux wines at local estates such as Domaine de Marotte or various caves in the town.
Rosé wines are particularly esteemed in this region, celebrated for their notes of cherry, raspberry, and pepper. The market also offers a variety of truffle-related products, including truffle oil, truffle salt, truffle charcuterie, dry truffle flakes, and even a truffle aperitif.
