Summary
There may not be a more picturesque scene in England than the cottages and cobblestones of Gold Hill set against the rolling North Dorset countryside.
This stunning view was famously captured by Ridley Scott in his 1973 Hovis advertisement. Shaftesbury and the Blackmore Vale are also featured in the works of Thomas Hardy, notably in novels such as *Tess of the d’Urbervilles* (1891). The historic stone wall along Gold Hill is part of Shaftesbury Abbey, founded by King Alfred the Great in 888, which was a significant pilgrimage destination during Anglo-Saxon England.
For walkers, Shaftesbury provides excellent opportunities to ascend to scenic viewpoints overlooking Blackmore Vale and to explore the chalk downs of Cranborne Chase, a vast Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty located just east of the town.
1. Gold Hill
One of the most delightful sights in England can be experienced from this renowned cobblestone street, which descends from Shaftesbury’s bustling high street.
To the right lies the 14th-century wall of Shaftesbury Abbey, while on the left, a terrace of stone-built cottages predominantly from the 18th century complements the landscape, with the North Dorset countryside extending behind.
Gold Hill has long been cherished, but its fame surged in 1973 when it was selected as the backdrop for Ridley Scott’s advertisement for Hovis Bread, accompanied by Antonín Dvořák’s Symphony No. 9.
2. Gold Hill Museum
Situated at the summit of the slope, the Gold Hill Museum occupies two historic structures; one served as a priest’s residence, while the other accommodated traders visiting the market.
Within eight galleries, visitors can explore the history of Shaftesbury and the broader region, perusing an intriguing collection of artifacts.
Among the most captivating exhibits is the Byzant, a ceremonial item crafted by a local artisan and carried in celebrations marking the discovery of Shaftesbury’s water supply.
Additionally, the museum showcases the oldest fire engine in Dorset, dating back to 1744, as well as antique examples of local lacework, buttons, and traditional costumes.
The priest’s residence features a “squint through” gap directing toward St Peter’s Church, conveniently located behind on the High Street.
The museum also boasts a quaint garden offering views of Blackmore Vale, perfect for a leisurely contemplation.
3. Shaftesbury Abbey Museum and Garden
Founded by Alfred the Great in 888, Shaftesbury Abbey was the most significant Benedictine nunnery in Anglo-Saxon England.
The relics of St Edward the Martyr, a young king who met his demise in 978, were transferred here in 981, establishing the abbey as a prominent pilgrimage destination.
By the 11th century, the town boasted three mints, thanks to the abbey, and was the site of King Canute’s death in 1035. The Shaftesbury Abbey Museum, located at the abbey’s excavated foundations, narrates the history of the abbey from its Anglo-Saxon establishment through the Middle Ages until its dissolution by Henry VIII.
The vibrant interiors of the museum reflect the colors of the abbey church, featuring cases displaying remarkable Saxon stonework, medieval floor tiles, and a wealth of artifacts unearthed during excavations.
The abbey remains enveloped in its 14th-century grounds, which visitors can explore through a tranquil walk in the Medieval orchard and herb garden.
4. Shaftesbury Heritage Trail
Established in the 2000s with funding from the Heritage Lottery, the Shaftesbury Heritage Trail offers an accessible introduction to the town through twelve notable buildings and sites adorned with blue plaques.
Information panels are provided at each location, commencing with the Gothic Revival Town Hall (1827) and the 15th-century Church of St Peter, ultimately leading to the abbey grounds and, of course, Gold Hill.
At the former cattle market on Bell Street, observers can note rings in the wall intended for tethering livestock, while the town hall retains the charter for this market, originating in 1260. For a detour, Castle Hill serves as a nature reserve on the town’s western edge, home to more than 40 bird species and providing views to King Alfred’s Tower on the Longleat Estate.
5. Cranborne Chase
The sixth-largest Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty in the country commences just east of Shaftesbury.
Covering 379 square miles, Cranborne Chase is a chalk plateau that is part of the Southern England Chalk Formation.
Shaftesbury lies next to the steeper scarp slope, with a series of downs providing breathtaking vistas over the Blackmore Vale.
As we shall discover, Cranborne Chase features numerous splendid vantage points, expansive chalk grasslands adorned with wildflowers, along with Iron Age hill forts, medieval churches, and quaint villages seemingly frozen in time.
Walkers and cyclists can plot extensive routes along public rights of way throughout this beautiful landscape, stopping for refreshments in a sunny pub garden.
6. Fontmell Down
Located at Fontmell Down, at the eastern edge of Cranborne Chase, is a vast expanse of ancient chalk grassland, which has become increasingly rare in England.
Having never been farmed, Fontmell Down supports 35 species of butterflies and a stunning variety of wildflowers, including nine types of orchids and the extremely rare early gentian.
Many of the wildflowers thrive on the south-facing slope of the main down, which is intentionally kept short, while the longer grass and scrub woodland on the lower slopes serve as a sanctuary for uncommon insects and small mammals.
Visitors can enjoy breathtaking views across Blackmore Vale throughout their exploration.
7. Melbury Beacon
This 263-meter chalk hill, which rises above Blackmore Vale and Cranborne Chase, was one of a series of beacons linking London to Plymouth in 1588 to signal the approach of the Spanish Armada.
Melbury Beacon was acquired in memory of Thomas Hardy to preserve a portion of the Blackmore Vale countryside, which served as the backdrop for many of his literary works.
Walking Melbury Beacon during midsummer reveals a spectacular display of wildflowers and butterflies, while to the north, one can reflect on Shaftesbury’s townscape nestled in the pastoral setting.
8. Duncliffe Wood
Alternatively, you might venture west into Blackmore Vale to explore this tract of ancient woodland located at the dual summit of the 210-meter Duncliffe Hill.
Spanning over 220 acres, this is one of the largest areas of ancient woodland in the region, noted in the Domesday Book of 1086. For five centuries, Duncliffe Wood belonged to King’s College, Cambridge, and is currently managed by the Woodland Trust.
The lime trees found here are estimated to be around 1,000 years old.
Some paths may be challenging due to the woodland’s location on a steep scarp slope, but the breathtaking sight of bluebells in spring is sure to captivate during the ascent.
9. Win Green
The highest point of Cranborne Chase is a mere five miles from the centre of Shaftesbury.
At 277 meters, Win Green is designated as a Marilyn due to its notable prominence in the landscape, and is maintained by the National Trust.
It is advisable to select a clear day for the ascent, as the views are truly remarkable, spanning back to Shaftesbury, northwest towards Glastonbury Tor and the Quantock Hills, and south as far as the Needles on the Isle of Wight, over 30 miles away.
Throughout the year, the sound of skylarks, a staple of the English countryside, can be heard on the hill, particularly during spring and summer, with a variety of butterfly species including chalkhill blues, Adonis blues, and dark green fritillaries visible in the warmer months.
10. Old Wardour Castle
When constructed in the 14th century, Old Wardour Castle was a forward-thinking residence built on a hexagonal plan.
William Wynford (1360-1405), one of Medieval England’s most prominent master masons, was involved in the castle’s design.
However, the founding Lovell family lost ownership in the 15th century for supporting the Lancastrians during the Wars of the Roses, and the Arundells, loyal to Charles I, found themselves embroiled in the English Civil War in the 17th century.
Old Wardour Castle has remained a ruin, albeit a substantial one, since Henry 3rd Lord Arundell laid siege to his own residence, resulting in significant damage.
Above the main entrance portal, the Arundell coat of arms remains visible, and English Heritage offers an audio tour highlighting the many features of the stonework, including a 16th-century bust of Christ, and interior spaces such as the great hall, great parlour, buttery, servery, and kitchen.
11. Larmer Tree Gardens
Located within Cranborne Chase are the Larmer Tree Gardens, designed by Victorian archaeologist and ethnologist Pitt Rivers in 1880. These gardens were originally intended as pleasure grounds for “public enlightenment and entertainment,” and were opened to the public at no charge (though a fee is required today). Visitors can wander among private arbours, rhododendrons, mature broadleaf trees, and manicured lawns populated by resident peacocks, while discovering an assortment of small monuments, including a colonial-style pavilion, a Roman temple, a Nepalese Room, and an open-air theatre stage featuring a backdrop inspired by Nicolas Poussin’s *Funeral of Phocion*.
Picnicking is encouraged, and visitors can borrow deckchairs and croquet equipment at no cost.
In mid-July, the Larmer Tree Festival offers a folk and world music celebration, recognized for its family-friendly environment.
12. Shaftesbury Arts Centre
The former covered market in the centre of Shaftesbury was transformed into a gallery and performing arts venue in 1957, hosting exhibitions, plays, live music events, stand-up comedy shows, dance performances, and various workshops and classes.
Operated entirely by volunteers, the Shaftesbury Arts Centre serves as a valued community resource, with activities occurring most days, ranging from shows featuring local artists and photographers (lasting one or two weeks) to Pilates classes, after-school drama sessions, and Friday night film screenings.
Each July, the Shaftesbury Fringe comedy event coincides with the annual Gold Hill Festival.
13. Melbury Vale Vineyard
This vineyard, situated approximately a mile south of Shaftesbury, was established in 2003 on the sun-drenched slopes of the picturesque Stirkel Valley.
Melbury Vale Vineyard is cultivated with cool climate grape varieties such as Pinot Noir, Seyval Blanc, Reichensteiner, and Bacchus, producing exquisite wines including the dry sparkling white, Grace, the fruity sparkling rosé, Decadence, and Elegance, a light white wine with notes of honey, elderflower, and pear.
The on-site winery was completed in 2013 and incorporates sustainable design elements such as a wildflower meadow roof and rainwater harvesting systems.
Visitors can stop by the winery shop on Fridays and Saturdays to sample wines before purchasing, and tours of the vineyard are available with advance arrangements.
14. Gold Hill Fair
Each year on the first Sunday of July, a charming celebration takes place in the enchanting surroundings of the abbey grounds and along the High Street.
Attendees can browse market stalls, and children have the opportunity to enjoy donkey rides.
Among the more unique local traditions is a “Van Pull” along the High Street.
The Abbey Grounds come alive with live music throughout the day, and the normally closed Trinity church tower is opened for visitors, providing access to one of the town’s finest viewpoints.
All proceeds from this event benefit local initiatives.
15. Shaftesbury Market
Thursday marks market day in Shaftesbury, when the High Street is filled with stalls offering produce including fruits, vegetables, flowers, eggs, fresh bread, pastries, honey, and preserves.
On Thursday mornings, visitors can also stop by the Town Hall for the Country Market, which features casual local traders selling homegrown seasonal produce, handmade crafts, home-cooked meals, flowering bulbs, and, on occasion, free-range pork and lamb.
Additionally, a farmers’ market occurs on the first Saturday of each month, as well as an arts and crafts market on the High Street every third Sunday during the summer months.
