Summary
This industrial city located in eastern-central France is often overlooked by travelers. Historically known for its mining and manufacturing industries, Saint-Étienne is undergoing a transformation into a vibrant arts center. The Manufacture-Plaine-Achille represents a newly revitalized area where former factories have been repurposed for creative endeavors.
In addition to the city’s rich coal-mining heritage, as showcased at the Musé de la Mine, football enthusiasts can pay tribute to one of Europe’s historic football clubs, AS Saint-Étienne, at the Stade Geoffroy-Guichard. For those seeking fresh air and natural surroundings, the Pilat Regional Park offers easy accessibility with mountain peaks and expansive forests located just outside the city’s southern suburbs.
Let us explore the most notable attractions in Saint-Étienne:
1. Musée d’Art et d’Industrie
A comprehensive introduction to the city’s culture and history can be achieved by dedicating a couple of hours to this museum.
Among its industrial exhibitions, a large gallery focuses on bicycle manufacturing, which began on a significant scale in Saint-Étienne in the 1800s.
The technical development of bicycles is illustrated through various antique prototypes.
Furthermore, the city was historically renowned for its weapon manufacturing, showcasing an impressive collection of 350 firearms, contributing to a total of over 3,000—making this the largest collection outside of Paris.
A substantial section also highlights Saint-Étienne’s textile industry, known for its ribbon production, detailing the skills and machinery involved in this sector.
2. Musée de la Mine
Considered France’s premier mining attraction, the esteemed Musée de la Mine houses Saint-Étienne’s last operational mine, which ceased its operations in 1973. Visitors can explore a reconstructed tunnel to experience the routine of a miner during the 20th century, with modern museographic presentations detailing the history of coal mining.
For fans of industrial machinery, the preservation of significant equipment and buildings is remarkable.
This includes the massive steel headframe, compressor room, maintenance workshop, and a large washroom facility capable of accommodating hundreds of miners simultaneously.
3. Musée des Verts
AS Saint-Étienne (ASSE) boasts a distinguished football legacy, consistently ranking in the top half of Ligue 1. In the 1960s and 70s, they emerged as a dominant force, amassing nine league titles within 18 years and narrowly missing out on a European Champions Cup in 1976. This illustrious history is chronicled at the 42,000-seater Stade Geoffroy-Guichard.
Within the elegant galleries, visitors can explore trophies, narratives of ASSE’s legendary players from the 1970s, and gain insights into the 1976 final at Hampden Park, a match that led to a hero’s welcome on the Champs-Élysées despite their second-place finish.
4. Planétarium
This state-of-the-art Planétarium provides an engaging experience for families.
Setting itself apart from typical star-gazing venues, it features an extensive astronomical database encompassing over 100,000 stars and several small bodies within our solar system.
Moreover, its simulator can project high-resolution images depicting the cosmos from various locations within the galaxy, including views from the Rings of Saturn.
In addition to astronomical shows, 3D movies are combined to offer an unforgettable experience for aspiring astronomers.
5. Musée du Vieux Saint-Étienne
Situated in the historic H ôtel de Villeneuve townhouse, this museum chronicles the origins of Saint-Étienne and the rapid industrial expansion it underwent in the 19th century.
A historic charter from 1258 marking the first mention of the town’s name is on display, complemented by a substantial lapidary collection featuring carved ancient sandstone.
Visitors can find maps, engravings, and sketches that illustrate the city’s evolution over time.
Notably, the museum houses original caricatures by the 19th-century cartoonist Étienne Carjat, who created endearing and humorous illustrations of contemporary public figures.
6. Cité du Design
The Manufacture-Plaine-Achille district is dedicated to the flourishing creative industries in Saint-Étienne.
In 2017, this area welcomed the Comédie de Saint-Étienne, a prestigious National Drama Centre.
The neighborhood’s centerpiece, the Cité du Design, opened in 2009, located in a former weapons factory on Rue Javelin Pagnon.
The architecture of the three restored buildings is striking, particularly the ultramodern La Platine, which boasts thousands of triangular panels, some opaque, some transparent, and others featuring photovoltaic cells.
Visitors are encouraged to explore the temporary design exhibitions and the futuristic greenhouse housed within.
7. Place Jean-Jaurès
As Saint-Étienne experienced growth during the 1800s, this square evolved into the city’s administrative and commercial nucleus.
This location was selected for the construction of Saint-Étienne’s modern cathedral, consecrated in the 1920s.
Place Jean-Jaurès is the premier pedestrian area in the city center and serves as a favored meeting point among locals, featuring fountains, lawns, shaded paths, and numerous adjoining cafes and restaurants for leisurely dining in the summer.
Among its landmarks is an exquisite 19th-century bandstand that adds a touch of Belle Époque charm to the square.
8. Modern Art Museum
Located within the same complex as the Mining Museum, the Modern Art Museum boasts a spacious cube-shaped hall featuring 24 large galleries.
More than half of these are dedicated to temporary exhibitions, which often change every few months, showcasing works by prominent artists such as Antony Gormley, Mario Schifano, and Gilbert & George.
The museum’s permanent collection encompasses various modern art movements, ranging from abstract expressionism to minimalism, including pieces from notable artists like Fernand Léger, Pablo Picasso, and Claude Monet.
9. Grand’Église
Although Saint-Étienne is primarily an industrial town that expanded in the 1800s, it retains some intriguing historical architecture.
One such example is the Grand’Église, the sole Gothic structure in Saint-Étienne, which was also the largest church in the city until the 20th-century cathedral was constructed.
This 14th-century building features rusticated sandstone walls, reflecting a design that is common in the Forez region of France.
A brief visit allows you to view the organ installed in 1922 and a stunning polychrome sculpture depicting the burial of Christ.
10. Place Boivin
Located directly in front of the Grand’Église, this small square surrounds a green space where the city’s northern defensive walls stood in the 1400s.
Visitors can glimpse Saint-Étienne’s past at La Maison François Ier, a four-story building constructed in 1547, which is now designated as a French “monument historique.” Take a moment to admire its facade, featuring half-timbered architecture on one side and stone medallions characterizing the Renaissance style in this region.
11. Place du Peuple
This expansive square serves as a vibrant hub of daily life in Saint-Étienne.
The tram network radiates out from this central point, while cafes and restaurants feature outdoor terraces, inviting visitors to take a break over a cup of coffee.
This area is also historically significant, housing the Tour de Droguerie, an ancient pharmacy characterized by a round stone tower built in the 1500s, representing one of the oldest examples of secular architecture in Saint-Étienne.
12. Crêt de la Perdrix
While retaining its industrial identity, Saint-Étienne is conveniently situated near unspoiled nature.
The Pilat Regional Park, extending across the eastern foothills of the Massif Central, offers picturesque drives, scenic walks, and cycling trails, ensuring ample opportunities to appreciate remarkable scenery.
A recommended hike leads to the Crêt de la Perdrix, the park’s highest point at 1,430 meters.
This curved peak presents a challenging yet rewarding climb, providing breathtaking vistas of the Jasserie, a vast natural amphitheater of meadows that stretches out magnificently.
13. Gouffre d’Enfer Dam
A few kilometers into the park lies the massive dam built in the 1860s to provide water for the city and mitigate the risk of floods from the Furan River.
This dam was shortly followed by another at the Pas-du-Riot, available for exploration rather than serving solely as a critical piece of infrastructure.
The rugged landscape surrounding the dam is breathtaking; visitors can observe where the gorge’s sides were cut away to accommodate the construction.
A winding path descends along the rock face to the base of the dam, while a stairway allows access to the summit for stunning panoramic views.
Additionally, a year-round “via ferrata” cable walk is available for both children and adults on the opposite side of the dam.
14. Saint-Pierre, Firminy
A visit to this remarkable church, designed by the eminent architect Le Corbusier, is highly recommended.
This project ranks among his final creations, commencing six years posthumously in 1970, utilizing designs he developed in the 1950s.
The building, constructed of white concrete, features a unique pyramidal shape, reaching a height of 33 meters.
Work was not completed until 2006, and while it does not function as a traditional church, it serves primarily as a tribute to Le Corbusier’s design philosophy.
One of the most captivating elements is the altar, where strategically placed windows on the opposing wall depict the Constellation of Orion.
15. Local Food
As you wander through the streets of Saint-Étienne, the delightful aroma of “bugnes” frying may entice you.
These are donut-style fritters made from butter, flour, milk, and yeast, lightly dusted with sugar and accentuated with hints of vanilla and orange zest.
The potato holds a significant role in the cuisine of the Loire Department, appearing in dishes such as râpée, where it is grated into a batter and fried into pancakes, or slowly cooked in a “barboton,” a stew made with lamb and carrots.
Additionally, Sarasson is an adaptable cheese preparation that pairs well with a wide variety of dishes, enjoyed as a vegetable dip, spread on bread, or served alongside sautéed or boiled potatoes.
