Summary
Pau has a rich historical significance, prominently as the birthplace of King Henri IV in 1553, who remains a beloved figure in France’s royal history.
Visitors can delve into the history of King Henri IV at the Château de Pau, exploring artifacts including the turtle shell in which he was cradled during infancy.
Another narrative thread traces back to the mid-19th century, when Scottish physician Alexander Taylor advocated for Pau’s advantageous climate, attracting affluent British visitors who established a resort atmosphere with amenities including a racecourse, golf club, and luxurious accommodations.
Regardless of your pursuits, the Boulevard des Pyrénées offers breathtaking views of the Pyrenees mountain range stretching across the Ossau Valley.
Let us examine the noteworthy activities in Pau:
1. Château de Pau
The Château de Pau, where King Henri IV was born on December 8, 1553, occupies a cherished position in the hearts of the French.
As the inaugural monarch of the House of Bourbon, he played a pivotal role in shaping France’s royal lineage.
While self-guided tours are not permitted, participation in a group tour provides access to the opulently decorated interiors.
Guided tours are available in French and Spanish, lasting approximately one hour, showcasing a series of elaborately adorned rooms featuring coffered ceilings, gilded walls, exquisite paintings, and some of France’s finest Gobelins tapestries.
For non-French speakers, an informational booklet in English is available.
A notable highlight is the king’s birthplace, which still houses the turtle shell in which he was nurtured during infancy.
2. Boulevard des Pyrénées
Established in the late 19th century, the Boulevard des Pyrénées is considered one of France’s most remarkable thoroughfares.
This avenue connects the Château de Pau in the west with Parc Beaumont 800 meters to the east, extending along a terrace atop the cliff overlooking the Gave de Pau.
The towering peaks of the Pyrenees, including the iconic Pic du Midi d’Ossau at the southern end of the Ossau Valley, create a stunning backdrop.
Informative panels dot the boulevard, enhancing the visitor experience by offering details about the sights.
This boulevard serves as an inspiring venue for morning runs and transforms into a romantic retreat during sunset.
3. Funiculaire de Pau
Operating daily from dawn until dusk for over a century, the funicular railway transports passengers along a 30% incline between the Gare de Pau and the Boulevard des Pyrénées.
This service has been complimentary since 1978, with trains arriving every three minutes.
Although the track spans just over 100 meters, it proves invaluable for visitors arriving by train with substantial luggage, echoing the experiences of Pau’s affluent guests in the early 1900s.
4. Musée des Beaux-Arts
One of the individuals responsible for the remarkable collection at Pau’s fine arts museum is Louis la Caze, who donated 30 major paintings in the 1800s.
La Caze is recognized in history for his significant donation of 583 works to the Louvre, which remains the largest donation ever received by the museum.
The museum features notable works from renowned artists of the 16th and 17th centuries, such as El Greco, Jacob Jordaens, Zurbarán, and Brueghel the Elder.
Additionally, the 19th-century collection mainly comprises French artworks, including pieces by Granet, Boudin, Camille Corot, Eugène Carrière, and Edgar Degas.
5. Musée Bernadotte
This museum, located in the birthplace of Jean-Baptiste Bernadotte, narrates one of the most intriguing tales from the Napoleonic era.
Born the son of a prosecutor in Pau, Bernadotte ascended the military ranks to become a general, later serving as Marshal of the Empire before ultimately becoming the king of Sweden.
Notably, the current Swedish royal family descends from him.
The house has been preserved to reflect a traditional Béarnaise home of the time, showcasing various artifacts, including paintings, miniatures, porcelain, medals, and personal items such as letters and telegrams, with contributions from the Swedish royal family.
6. Trespoey
Following Alexander Taylor’s endorsement in the mid-1800s, Pau quickly evolved into a winter haven for the bourgeoisie.
Many affluent individuals constructed their grand English-style villas in the Trespoey district, situated just east of the city center, which is now home to Pau’s most prestigious hotels.
The local tourist office offers a guide to historically significant villas, which one can admire while leisurely exploring this picturesque neighborhood that also boasts stunning mountain vistas.
While many mansions, such as St. Basil’s and San Carlos, are typically only visible from a distance, the former opens its doors annually on the third Sunday of September to commemorate National Heritage Day.
7. Château Quarter
The picturesque lanes surrounding the castle feature architecture that dates back 500 years.
Initially, this area represented the entirety of Pau, making it the city’s oldest district.
A leaflet from the tourist office can assist in identifying the most significant historical elements within the area.
The doors, characterized by large, intricately carved wood with distinctive wrought iron handles, highlight the craftsmanship of the time.
Later developments saw Pau expand to the east along Rue Maréchal Joffre, which is adorned with elegant mansions commissioned by the nobility.
8. Quartier du Hédas
Located in a small valley beneath the Château to the north, this neighborhood derives its name from the stream that once meandered through it.
The original course of the Hédas is evident, having carved a deep ravine in the landscape.
To facilitate development in this challenging terrain, bridges like Pont de Lassansà and Pont Neuf were constructed.
Now, it is a charming neighborhood to explore on foot, boasting steep alleys and unique features, such as the Tor deu Borrèu on Rue du Hédas, previously the residence of Pau’s last executioner in the 1800s.
Once characterized by poverty, Hédas has transformed into a vibrant nightlife area, brimming with bars, restaurants, and a strong sense of community.
9. Hippodrome du Pont-Long
Your visit to Pau’s racecourse may evoke feelings reminiscent of 19th-century society.
The Béarn region holds a longstanding reputation in thoroughbred horse breeding, and the mid-1800s saw a surge in the equestrian industry as affluent British visitors sought entertainment during their winter stays.
The racing season at Hippodrome occurs exclusively in the winter, featuring 154 hurdle races and 62 flat races.
On colder days, spectators can enjoy the races from a comfortably heated hall with a bar or while dining at the panoramic restaurant.
10. Pau Golf Club
The establishment of Pau Golf Club in 1856 marked a significant milestone in Pau’s evolution during the mid-19th century, rendering it the oldest golf course in mainland Europe and the first established outside British territory.
Scottish expatriates required a venue to indulge their passion for golf, leading to the club’s founding in Billère, located a few kilometers west of Pau.
Renowned golfers, including Sergio Garcia and José María Olazábal, have participated in the France-Espagne Boys Match, which commences in February.
A valid handicap is required to play a round, with an approximate visitor fee of €60, in addition to a museum that chronicles the club’s history.
11. Parc Beaumont
Proceeding along the Boulevard des Pyrénées to the east leads visitors seamlessly into Parc Beaumont.
Similar to the boulevard, Parc Beaumont is enhanced by spectacular views of the Pyrenees, offering a serene atmosphere, particularly at sunset.
Covering 10 hectares, the park hosts over 100 tree species, many introduced at a time when Pau became a fashionable destination.
Among the flora are varieties from the New World, including the giant sequoia, American persimmon, and the bald cypress from Louisiana.
The park also features a rose garden, flower beds, and ample water features, comprising a lake, river, and waterfall.
12. Section Paloise
The southwest of France has long been recognized as a rugby stronghold, with Section Paloise playing a historic role, having won the French championship three times.
The most recent victory occurred in 1964, and in recent years, “La Section” has competed in the second tier of French rugby.
However, in 2015, the team achieved promotion to the Top 14, the most competitive rugby league in the Northern Hemisphere.
Home games take place at the 18,000-seat Stade du Hameau, spanning the months from August to May.
For those new to rugby, attending a match against teams like Toulon or Clermont will showcase some of the world’s elite talent on the field.
13. Ossau Valley
Venture into Béarn through the Ossau Valley, which extends for 70 kilometers to the south, commencing adjacent to Pau.
This valley is characterized by lush green pastures and numerous leisurely walking paths.
Quaint medieval villages like Béost and Bielle dot the landscape, alongside the natural springs of Eaux-Bonnes, where one can relax at a spa resort.
The Upper Ossau area displays breathtaking scenery, with opportunities to visit Lac d’Artouste, a lake set within a natural amphitheater of peaks that ascend nearly 3,000 meters.
On the journey, the Col d’Aubisque emerges, renowned among Tour de France enthusiasts for its 45 crossings and three stage finishes.
14. Adventure Sports
The energetic and wild waters of the Gave de Pau present numerous opportunities for adventure, including white water rafting, canyoning, canoeing, and kayaking.
For land-based pursuits, a plethora of hiking trails is accessible from the city, all featuring invigorating views of the distant Pyrenees.
Moreover, the Gave de Pau and its four principal tributaries possess remarkable water purity, and considering the stunning natural settings and ample fish stocks, fishing emerges as an appealing activity during warmer months.
15. Gastronomy
In the 16th century, King Henri IV helped elevate the profile of a Béarnaise specialty known as poule au pot, a chicken and vegetable stew that is reminiscent of the traditional French pot-au-feu.
Another notable dish in the region is garbure, a hearty broth featuring ham, cabbage, and various vegetables that has supported generations of Béarn’s rural populace.
Bayonne ham, cherished for its delicate sweetness, is locally sourced, as many pigs are raised in the Ossau Valley.
At Les Halles in Pau, be sure to try the Pyranean cheese, specifically Ossau-iraty, crafted from sheep’s milk, which pairs exquisitely with regional black cherry jam.