Summary
Positioned on the border with Wales, Chester was established in AD 70 as the Roman fortification known as Deva Victrix.
Archaeological discoveries at the amphitheater indicate that Deva was likely to become the Roman capital of the UK in the 3rd Century, had an invasion of Ireland occurred.
The City Walls feature substantial curtains of ashlar blocks that originated from Deva’s ancient defenses.
These walls are further reinforced by Medieval towers and carry narratives from the Siege of Chester during the English Civil War.
Along Chester’s rectilinear Roman streets, visitors will encounter the Rows, unique Medieval timber structures with raised galleries not found anywhere else globally.
No exploration of Chester would be complete without acknowledging its zoo, recognized as one of the finest worldwide and among the pioneers in employing humane animal enclosures.
Let us delve into the most notable attractions in Chester:
1. Chester City Walls
A noteworthy aspect of the three-kilometer walkway atop Chester’s walls is that most of these fortifications align with the original defenses of the Roman fort of Deva.
Only the southeast defenses were modified during Chester’s reconstruction in the 10th century, allowing them to extend down to the River Dee.
This pathway provides an excellent vantage point to appreciate Chester’s historic skyline and half-timbered residences, guiding you towards Medieval sandstone structures such as Bonewaldesthorne’s Tower (1249), Thimbleby’s Tower (13th century), and the Water Tower (1325). Morgan’s Mount, situated on the northern side, was erected in 1645 as an observation point and artillery location during the English Civil War.
It is worthwhile to observe the walls from ground level, where one can clearly identify the oldest Roman ashlar blocks, as well as fragments of spolia (Roman stone repurposed in the Medieval era).
2. Chester Cathedral
Constructed over nearly five centuries from the 11th to the 16th century, Chester Cathedral presents elements of every Medieval English architectural style, ranging from Norman Romanesque to Perpendicular Gothic.
The cathedral’s oldest sections are located in the northern transept, featuring a semi-circular Romanesque arch, while the northwest tower can also be traced back to the 11th century.
Astonishingly, a stunning baptismal font made of black marble and dating to 1697 can be found here. The choir should not be overlooked for its Decorative Gothic stalls, carved circa 1380, showcasing tall, pointed canopies embellished with mini spires and crockets, along with 48 misericords that depict a variety of interesting figures.
The 13th-century Lady Chapel exhibits elements of the Early English Gothic style, characterized by a stone rib vault; outside, visitors can navigate the cloisters to witness a 17th-century Mortlake tapestry displayed on the wall of the refectory.
3. Chester Rows
The Rows comprise a collection of timber-framed galleries located on Watergate Street, Northgate Street, Eastgate Street, and Bridge Street in Chester’s historical center.
These sheltered walkways are unique globally, elevated above street level, presenting a second tier of shops.
The initial reference to the Chester Rows can be traced back to 1293, following a city-wide fire two decades earlier.
The structure is believed to have been constructed to expand the shopping area in the city center.
Below the galleries lie vaulted stone undercrofts, 20 of which remain from the 13th and 14th centuries, while at no. 48 Bridge Street is the Three Old Arches, widely acknowledged as the oldest shopfront in England, dating back to 1274.
4. The Groves
Beginning in the west beneath the city walls at Lower Bridge Street and concluding at Grosvenor Park, The Groves offers a picturesque riverside promenade along the northern bank of the Dee.
With splendid views towards the Queen’s Park area mansions on the southern bank, visitors can stroll beneath the lime trees, passing Georgian houses, pubs, iron gaslights, and numerous benches to rest and observe the swans.
One of the most capture-worthy sights is the Queen’s Park Suspension Bridge, located just a few meters east of the charming Edwardian bandstand.
5. Chester Zoo
Renowned as one of the finest zoos not only in the UK but internationally, Chester Zoo spans across more than 125 acres, housing over 20,000 individual animals.
Its founder, George Motterhead, envisioned a zoo free from bars, opting instead for natural barriers such as ditches and moats for animal enclosures.
Every few years, a new multimillion-pound habitat is introduced, with “Islands at Chester Zoo,” launched in 2018, replicating six island habitats from Southeast Asia, showcasing species such as Sumatran tigers, cassowaries, Visayan warty pigs, Malayan tapirs, tentacled snakes, and more.
The extensive list of environments to explore is substantial, but one must allocate time for Bears of Cloud Forest, Monkey Islands, Tsavo Black Rhino Reserve, and the Realm of the Red Ape, which features Bornean Orangutans.
6. Grosvenor Museum
Housed in a purpose-built Renaissance Revival structure dating back to 1886, the Grosvenor Museum has curated a diverse array of fascinating artifacts over the past 130 years.
The museum’s name honors Hugh Grosvenor, the 1st Duke of Westminster, who contributed significantly to the funding in the 1880s.
Inside, visitors will encounter the largest collection of works by the 19th-century English watercolor artist Louise Rayner, Roman-period stelae, and a collection of six recorders crafted by the 17th and 18th-century woodwind instrument maker Peter Bressan.
The museum also features interactive exhibits related to the natural history of the region, alongside reconstructions of historical homes across centuries, showcasing original decor, furniture, paintings, and everyday utensils.
7. Grosvenor Park
This elegant Victorian park spans 20 acres on the northern bank of the Dee, established on land granted to Chester by Richard Grosvenor, the 2nd Marquess of Westminster.
Designed by Edward Kemp, Grosvenor Park is acknowledged as one of the finest parks of its era.
Kemp’s vision incorporates organized lawns, flowerbeds, and pathways, alongside more picturesque features such as a stone arch originally from Chester’s St Michael’s Church, and the Grade II listed Jacob’s Well drinking fountain.
A miniature railway established in 1996 operates during weekends and Tuesday and Thursday afternoons during term time. During school holidays, it runs daily.
The park also includes an Activity Zone for children, the Lodge Cafe, and one of the top open-air theatres in the UK, which presents productions from early July to the end of August.
8. St John the Baptist’s Church
Located beyond the eastern walls, this Medieval church occupies a cliff overlooking the River Dee.
Constructed from sandstone, St John the Baptist’s Church originates from the Anglo-Saxon period, potentially dating back to the 7th century.
The remaining architecture dates from the 11th century when the Bishop of Lichfield relocated his episcopal seat to Chester, thereby designating St John’s as a cathedral.
Clear Norman Romanesque elements are evident in the nave, crossing, the first bay of the chancel, the drum arch leading to the Lady Chapel, and within the remnants of the choir chapels.
This eastern section of the church was dismantled during the Reformation, with surviving fragments available for view outside.
Inside the church, visitors can observe pieces of Saxon stone crosses, believed to have previously stood in the churchyard.
9. Eastgate and Eastgate Clock
Chester’s most distinguishable landmark, the Eastgate, represents the original entrance to the Roman fortress of Deva.
As it stands today, the gate features a sandstone arch erected in 1768, topped by the wall walk.
To commemorate Queen Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee in 1897, Cheshire architect John Douglas designed an elegant clock supported by openwork wrought iron pylons adorned with gold.
The clock face is visible on all four sides beneath a copper-clad ogee cupola.
The clock mechanism was provided by J.B. Joyce of Whitchurch, requiring manual winding once a week until 1974.
Above the clock face on each side, the initials “VR” (Victoria Regina) are displayed.
10. Roman Amphitheatre
Designated as an English Heritage Site and a Grade I listed structure, the Roman Amphitheatre was established in the late 70s and remained undiscovered for nearly 1,700 years.
Two distinct amphitheatres once occupied this site, with the latter, dating back to the 3rd century, accommodating at least 8,000 spectators.
Over the years, various listed constructions arose on all but the northern side of this ancient monument, resulting in the recovery of only the northern quarter.
Visitors can find a grassy bank where seating was once formed by a curved retaining wall defining the pit.
In 2010, a trompe l’oeil mural was created by London artist Gary Drostle to illustrate what the remainder of the amphitheatre would have appeared like.
11. Chester Cathedral Falconry and Nature Gardens
The grounds located north of the cathedral, nestled into the northeastern corner of the city walls, feature a nature attraction appealing particularly to children.
The Falconry provides an opportunity to get incredibly close to owls, hawks, falcons, and an amusing vulture named Tinks.
Skilled handlers exhibit these birds and impart fascinating insights into their behavior and dietary requirements.
Weather permitting, flight demonstrations take place, and adventurous visitors can handle some of these raptors.
The center also includes terrariums for reptiles and garden areas where one can learn to attract wildlife to their home gardens.
12. Chester Cross
Adjacent to the Rows in Chester’s historic core is a staggered intersection connecting Northgate Street, Eastgate Street, and Bridge Street.
The aforementioned streets date back to Chester’s era as a Roman fort and served as its primary routes.
Just north of the bridge and Watergate Street junction was the site of the fortress’s Principia building (headquarters). The Grade II listed Chester High Cross stands as the highlight of the crossroads.
This red sandstone monument, constructed in 1476, was dismantled by the Parliamentarians in 1646 during the English Civil War.
Fragments of the original structure were rediscovered during the 19th century and utilized in a restoration executed by Newgate in 1949, before being repositioned to its rightful locale in 1975. The cross features an octagonal base, steps, and a shaft topped with a hexagonal head intricately carved with niches beneath a circular finial.
13. Chester Roman Gardens
Adjoined to the city walls to the west, the Chester Roman Gardens were established by Graham Webster, curator of the Grosvenor Museum, in 1949. This park was developed in preparation for the 1951 Festival of Britain and showcases ancient architectural fragments unearthed during the 19th-century excavations of Deva’s baths and military structures like the Principia.
A row of columns from the exercise hall within the main bathhouse, previously towering nearly two meters, is featured here.
The tallest column originates from the Principia building, where Chester Cross is currently located.
The garden also contains a hypocaust heating system and a mosaic that has been relocated from the Legionaries’ bathhouse.
Take note of a section of the city wall displaying damage from bombardment during the Siege of Chester in 1645, which was promptly repaired thereafter.
14. Cheshire Military Museum
Little remains of the Medieval Chester Castle, as the decaying monument was primarily remodeled in a Neoclassical style during the 1780s by the prominent architect Thomas Harrison.
The Cheshire Military Museum, along with the Crown Courts, occupies the former barracks within one of Harrison’s Grade I listed buildings.
Through authentic artifacts, photographs, paintings, and narratives, visitors can learn about the various Regiments of Cheshire’s involvement in significant historical battles and experience the life of a soldier enduring the trenches of World War I.
Curiosities on display include the silver collection of the Cheshire Regiment, a shield and baton from the Troubles in Northern Ireland, a WWII Vickers Medium Machine Gun (MMG), and memorabilia from the German surrender of 1945.
15. River Dee
On warmer days, visitors are naturally drawn to Chester’s river, where several businesses along The Groves offer boat tours.
A standard cruise typically journeys east, passing beneath the Queen’s Park Suspension Bridge, alongside regal waterfront properties, and extending to the Chester Meadows on the city’s periphery, all within a half-hour time frame.
During the voyage, a running commentary highlights the monuments on the skyline and some of the river’s avian inhabitants, including cormorants and kingfishers.
ChesterBoat and Chester Day Boat Hire offer private charters for those wishing to navigate the river on their own vessels for a day or longer.
The river also facilitates calm enough conditions for pedal boats and kayaking, which can be rented from The Groves.
