Summary
The captivating Medieval city of Fez was established on the banks of the Jawhar River in the 8th century by Idris I, a descendant of the Islamic Prophet Muhammad.
Shortly thereafter, the 9th-century University of al-Qarawiyyin emerged, recognized as the oldest institution of higher education in the world.
Within its UNESCO-listed Medina, Fez offers a multisensory experience, featuring vibrantly colorful tannery pits, the sounds of artisans crafting copperware, and an array of scents that provide guidance superior to any map.
The narrow alleyways of Fez are as intricate as the centuries-old calligraphy, tilework, and stucco that embellish the city’s palaces, mosques, madrasas, and shrines.
Let us delve into the most notable attractions in Fez:
1. Medina
Regarded as the largest pedestrian zone globally, this area consists of an intricate maze of over 9,000 mostly unnamed alleys.
This city is considered by many to be the most significant walled city within the Arab world, where the narrow and dark streets cannot even be seen from the view points situated atop the valley.
No map can decode this environment, and losing your way is inevitable, yet that contributes to its charm.
When individuals refer to the Medina, they typically include both Old Fez (Fes el-Bali) and the newer Fes el-Jdid, established in the 13th century during the Marinid Dynasty.
During this period, Fez experienced its cultural zenith, establishing itself as the capital and leading to the construction of madrasas, mosques, and parts of the city defenses that persist today.
2. Bou Inania Madrasa
Established in the mid-14th century by the Marinid ruler Abu Inan Faris, the Bou Inania Madrasa is an aesthetic marvel, with each square inch of the courtyard showcasing exceptional artisanal skills.
Notably, it is the only religious school in Fez that features its own minaret, which is also a work of art, acclaimed as the finest in the city.
The ablution fountain within the courtyard has been in operation for over 750 years, and standing in this space, one cannot help but be impressed by the intricately designed tilework adorned with bands of Arabic calligraphy, feather-light stucco, and skillfully carved cedar screens.
The level of workmanship and labor invested in this space is astonishing.
3. Bab Bou Jeloud
The elegant minaret of the Bou Inania Madrasa can be observed through the horseshoe arch of Fes el-Bali’s grand western gateway.
What may come as a surprise is the relative youth of this monument compared to the ancient religious schools and shrines in Fez.
The Bab Bou Jeloud was constructed in 1913 during the French Protectorate and stands in a neo-Moorish style known as Mauresque.
The gate’s charm lies in its fassi tilework, featuring vivid blue on the exterior and green on the interior.
Vehicle traffic is prohibited beyond this point, and from dawn until dusk, the passageway behind it is alive with pedestrians, mules, donkeys, and mopeds.
Some of the premier dining establishments in Fez are located just inside the gateway, providing an excellent vantage point for observing the daily life of a Medieval city.
4. Al-Attarine Madrasa
This 14th-century madrasa, situated near the spice and perfume market at Souk al-Attarine, is a testament to the artistry of the Marinid Dynasty, commissioned by Sultan Abu Sa’id Uthman II.
Corresponding seamlessly with other Marinid religious schools in Fez, the Al-Attarine Madrasa features elaborate decorations adorning its rectangular courtyard.
Visitors can marvel at the technical prowess of cedar carving and stucco craftsmanship.
Most remarkable, however, is the exquisite tile-work achieved through a unique technique known as “taqshir,” where the tile glaze has been meticulously scraped to yield a lustrous pattern.
A tile frieze embellishes the wall above the zellige patterns leading to the prayer room within the courtyard, inscribed with the word “Allah” in green calligraphy, all painstakingly inlaid on a white background.
5. Jardin Jnan Sbil
Nestled between Fes el-Jdid and Fes el-Bali is the city’s oldest park, designed in the 18th century at the behest of Sultan Moulay Abdallah.
A unique enclave of green space where one can escape the bustle of the Medina, Jardin Jnan Sbil had fallen into disrepair until it was revitalized in the 2000s.
Now meticulously maintained, the park features a substantial pond and water gardens embellished with geometric fountains clad in zellige tiles, bordered by geometrically arranged gardens adorned with roses, cacti, and low boxwood hedges.
It is shaded by palm trees, orange trees, pines, and an avenue lined with towering cypresses.
6. Funduq al-Najjariyyin
At one end of Najjariyyin Square in the Old Medina stands the magnificent five-meter entrance to this 17th-century khan (inn), crowned with an elaborate cedar canopy.
Above the portal, one can appreciate the delicate geometric and floral patterns, along with extraordinarily intricate tilework.
To the side lies a 19th-century saqayya, a fountain designed for caravans, adorned with exceptional zellige tiles and exquisite honeycomb plasterwork.
Commissioned by the Alaouite Sultan Ismail Ibn Sharif, this Funduq is preserved as a museum dedicated to wooden craftsmanship.
Visitors can enter to gaze upwards at the three levels of galleries and explore a display of artisanal woodwork from the city’s historical eras.
Included in the exhibits are furniture, doors, musical instruments, canopies, and traditional woodworking tools. There is also a café on the roof, perfect for enjoying a glass of mint tea above the commotion of the Medina.
7. Marinid Tombs
A breathtaking view of Old Fez unfolds at the remnants of a royal necropolis from the Marinid Dynasty (13th to 15th centuries). Displacing the Almohad Dynasty, the Marinids seized the city in 1250, subsequently establishing the fortified palace city of Fes el-Jdid adjacent to the historic Fes el-Bali.
Surviving from this period are two mausoleums marked by monumental horseshoe arches and faint traces of stucco decoration.
While their occupants remain unknown, the quality of the remaining ornamentation indicates significant status.
Ascend to this location at sunset to identify key landmarks, such as the soaring minaret of the Mosque of al-Qarawiyyin and the royal palace, nestled beside the Mellah (Jewish quarter). When the call to prayer sounds, you will be treated to harmonious voices from muezzins across the city.
8. Sahrij Madrasa
Adjacent to the Andalusian Mosque is a Madrasa commissioned in 1321 by the Marinid Sultan Abu al-Hassan.
This complex became known for its sahrij, the decorative ablution pool situated within its courtyard, which is the origin of its name.
The rectangular courtyard is adorned with carved cedar, sculpted marble, multicolored zellige tiles, and stucco, all crafted to evoke the legendary Alhambra palace complex in Granada.
Flanking the courtyard are accommodations for students alongside a guesthouse.
9. Zaouia Moulay Idriss II
This shrine, located at Place de Marche Verte, is revered as one of Morocco’s holiest sites, housing the mausoleum of Idris II (791-828). As the founder of the 200-year Idrisid Dynasty, Idris II is recognized for establishing the first Islamic state in Morocco.
The shrine, positioned beneath the tallest minaret in Old Fez, was constructed between 1717 and 1824 primarily for residents of Fez; however, visiting practicing Muslims are also allowed entry to the mausoleum.
Two-meter wooden bars indicate restricted access to Christians and Jews, preventing donkeys from entering as well.
Nowadays, non-Muslims have the opportunity to explore the complex and admire the courtyard’s 18th-century white marble fountain, although access to the mausoleum located at the southern end remains off-limits.
Devotees continue to visit the shrine seeking good fortune, and Idris II has long been associated with fertility among women.
From the mausoleum’s entrance, non-Muslims will be able to observe the tomb on the right through the doorway, draped in silk brocade.
Take note of the cedar wood doors, which have been smoothened by centuries of pilgrims kissing and caressing their surface.
10. Borj Nord
An impressive defensive feature on the Medina’s walls, this 16th-century Saaid dynasty fortress commands a view over the city from the north, visible from a significant distance.
The Borj Nord was designed based on Portuguese artillery forts of the era and served to protect Fes el-Bali, alongside managing the city’s unruly populace.
The powerful corner bastions are recent additions from the Alaouite period.
Since 1963, Borj Nord has become home to the Museum of Arms, showcasing over 5,000 pieces that span Morocco, Africa, Europe, and Asia, dating from the prehistoric period to the 1900s.
Do not miss the chance to view the 12-ton Saadian cannon that played a role in the Battle of Three Kings (1578).
11. Borj Sud
Borj Nord’s counterpart is situated on a hilltop across the valley, offering an exceptional panorama of Fez from the south.
Constructed in the same era, Borj Sud exhibits a more straightforward square architecture, lacking any corner bastions.
Accessing it is a brief journey from Bab Jdid, requiring crossing the river and then traversing Boulevard Allal El Fassi (N6). The route meanders up the hill through an olive grove, and standing at the base of the fort’s walls, one can observe the entire Medina of Fez nestled in the valley, with Jebel Zalagh mountain rising behind.
12. Place Seffarine
This square is bordered on one side by the grand, horseshoe-arched entrance of the al-Qarawiyyin Library, with a gnarled plane tree at its center.
However, the melodious sounds, as much as the visual appeal, distinguish Place Seffarine since the remainder of the square is devoted to the traditionally practiced craft of copperware, which has a rich history in Fez.
The clanging of artisans shaping and polishing their wares resonates long before you arrive at Place Seffarine.
This handcrafted copperware is displayed, shimmering in the shopfronts, where you can negotiate prices for various items, including buckets, pots, pans, tagines, trays, incense burners, couscous steamers, sieves, kettles, sugar boxes, and much more.
On the northern side, adjacent to the library entrance is Cremerie la Place, serving a robust cup of coffee or refreshing mint tea.
13. El Glaoui Palace
This partially dilapidated early-20th-century palace was previously a residence of politician Thami El Glaoui (1879-1956), infamous for collaborating with the French and supporting the overthrow of Mohammed V.
This affiliation might explain the neglect the complex has experienced; however, decades of deterioration do not detract from the palace’s inherent beauty.
In 2019, it was occupied by a self-taught artist, who charges a modest admission fee for entry.
Within the palace, visitors can admire radiant zellige decoration, painted woodcarving, stained glass, and stucco work.
Noteworthy rooms include the harem and the expansive kitchen.
14. University of al-Qarawiyyin (Mosque)
Fez developed around the oldest continuously operating higher education institution globally, founded in 859. The University of al-Qarawiyyin remains highly esteemed in the Muslim world, and while the modern university has been relocated to a newer section of the city, the library and mosque remain situated in the Medina.
The mosque, dating back to the 9th century, underwent two expansions in the 12th and 18th centuries and is renowned for its extensive arcades, marble fountains, blue and white zellige tiles, and delicate stucco craftsmanship.
This site holds significant importance in Moroccan Islam; thus, unfortunately, non-Muslims are prohibited from entering.
You may peek through the gates or visit the 14th-century Al-Attarine Madrasa for an alternative view.
This site is beautiful in its own right while also providing an enhanced perspective of the mosque’s courtyard and stone minarets.
15. Chouara Tannery
Located northeast of the Mosque of al-Qarawiyyin, this is the largest of the city’s three tanneries, continuing its operations for nearly 800 years.
The processes of curing and cleansing sheepskin, goatskin, cow, and camel hides occur in a mixture of cow urine, pigeon droppings, salt, quicklime, and water.
Once softened, the hides are then placed in large colorful earthen pits for dyeing.
Traditionally, these pits would contain natural dyes like turmeric (yellow), indigo (blue), mint (green), henna (orange), and crushed poppy (red), although chemical dyes are more commonly used now.
This part of the process is mesmerizing, as the vats create an impression similar to a giant painter’s palette when viewed from the terraces above.
16. Andalusian Mosque
This mosque, located up steps from the tanneries, is among the oldest mosques in the world, dating back to the founding of the city in the 9th century.
It was constructed in 859-860 during the era of the Idrisid dynasty for Andalusian refugees from Cordoba, who settled in this area of the Medina.
The project was funded by Maryam bint Mohammed bin Abdullah, sister of Fatima al-Fihri, renowned for establishing the University of al-Qarawiyyin – and the two mosques have historically been rivals.
Originally a modest structure, the mosque underwent expansions and refinements over the centuries.
The square minaret, resembling that of the Mosque of al-Qarawiyyin, dates back to the 10th century.
The entrance on the northern facade dates from the early 13th century and features two arches, one embellished with moulded plasterwork and the other with cedar, both rich in zellige decoration.
For non-Muslims, this monument is best appreciated from the exterior, but its beauty merits a detour.
17. Dar Batha
Situated near Bab Bou Jeloud and positioned just beyond the western wall of Old Fez is a former royal palace built in the late 19th century for Sultan Hassan I and his successor Abdelaziz, intended for accommodating guests.
More than half of this complex is occupied by an Andalusian-style garden, still utilized for cultural and religious events during summer.
Dar Batha has been a museum for over a century, serving as a repository for artifacts from the ruined structures of Old Fez.
Traditional craftsmanship is on display, exemplified by jewellery, zellige mosaics, embroidery, wrought iron, coins, and carpets.
Impressive local cobalt blue ceramics, a hallmark of the city for over a millennium, and astrolabes—technology adapted by Arab scholars in the 10th century for setting prayer times—are included in the collection.
18. Fez Medina Guided Tour
As noted, the labyrinthine corridors of Fez’s Medina contain 9,000 alleys and an estimated 40,000 dead ends, each intertwined with its own intricate history.
Therefore, to ensure a thorough exploration of the largest walled city in the world, enlisting a professional guide could be beneficial.
The Fez Medina Guided Tour lasts up to six hours and can be provided in English, French, Spanish, or Italian.
Your guide will lead you through all the essential sites, including the tanneries, Nejjarine Museum (skipping the line), the madrasas, the Andalusian mosque, and a vibrant array of market stalls, while sharing anecdotes, historical insights, and haggling techniques.
19. Dar al-Makhzen
This active royal palace within the Fes Jdid quarter covers more than 80 hectares and has existed since the 13th century.
Inside, there resides a 14th-century mosque, a madrasa, an ornate courtyard, and expansive gardens.
While the palace itself is presently closed to the public, one can appreciate the craftsmanship of its entrance, which underwent restoration in the 1970s, by visiting Place des Alaouites.
This entrance showcases exquisite carved cedar and zellige tiles, yet is particularly esteemed for its delicately patterned brass doors, which glisten in the fading sunlight during twilight.
20. Palais El Mokri
This palace was commissioned by Mohammed El Mokri (d. 1957), who served as finance minister under several Sultans during the French Protectorate.
El Mokri was well-educated and well-traveled, having resided in various European courts, and he was the first Moroccan to import a grand piano.
His descendants continue to occupy the palace, welcoming guests for tours, while also offering rooms for rent.
As you explore the palace, immerse yourself in the details of the painted wooden ceilings, intricately sculpted stucco work, chandeliers, Murano glass windows, and a remarkable inner courtyard framed by two long horseshoe arcades adorned with beautiful zellige pillars and functional fountains.
21. Souk el Henna
At the heart of the Medina, you will discover a narrow passage that leads to a square shaded by large, mature plane trees and the towering minaret of Zaouia Moulay Idriss II.
It is exciting to acknowledge that henna has been traded at this very location for centuries.
Here, it is offered in leaf form, which is dried and ground into a paste.
Traditionally, this paste is applied to women’s hands during wedding ceremonies.
Stalls in this area also showcase antimony (kohl) and other traditional cosmetics 포함하는 상반구의 아로마틱 수분, rhassoul, musk, and lavender essence.
22. Bab Makina Plaza
In the late 19th century, Sultan Hassan I fortified the Fes Jdid quarter with a series of enhancements.
One such addition, Bab Makina, serves as the backdrop for the Festival of World Sacred Music held every June and now long into its third decade.
The 2019 edition welcomed performers from Spain, Lebanon, Azerbaijan, France, Oman, Venezuela, Armenia, and Ireland.
If you find yourself here whilst exploring the city, you will encounter a trio of heavy wooden doors framed in horseshoe arches, accompanied by lofty square towers capped with pointed crenellations.
23. Ibn Danan Synagogue
For those interested in the historical context of Fez’s Jewish community, the Ibn Danan Synagogue, though no longer active, is a well-preserved structure dating back to the 17th century.
This synagogue was established by merchant Mimoun Ben Sidan, who welcomed thousands of Jewish families expelled from Spain.
Inside, the large Torah Ark is noteworthy, adorned with intricately carved wooden panels framed by delicate painted honeycomb plasterwork.
Across from this, the bimah (orator’s platform) features an elegantly wrought iron openwork canopy marked by horseshoe arches and floral motifs.
Downstairs, a mikvah (ritual bath) remains stocked with water, and visitors can proceed to a terrace providing views of the adjacent cemetery.
24. Two-Day Small Group Desert Tour
This historic trading post is the perfect launching point to experience the allure of the Sahara.
You may embark on a two-day excursion into the desert from Fez, venturing toward the expansive dunes at Erg Chebbi.
This journey takes you through cedar forests inhabited by monkeys and the Middle Atlas Mountains, allowing you to observe Berber villages, a 1930s ski resort, mountain springs, and rugged rock formations.
Eventually, you will descend into the desert, where a camel ride will transport you into the sands for an overnight experience in a Berber camp.
Awakening early the following morning, you will ascend the dunes to witness the sunrise illuminating the landscape across the Algerian border, before returning leisurely to Fez with regular rest stops.
25. Meknes, Volubilis and Moulay Day Trip
This excursion facilitates westward travel to the ancient ruins of Volubilis, which once served as the capital of the Kingdom of Mauretania.
Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Volubilis was occupied from the 3rd century BCE to the 11th century CE, transitioning from Roman governance to local tribes in the 3rd century CE, from which it was never reclaimed.
The impressive array of mosaics remaining, many still in situ at opulent villas, speaks to the city’s historic wealth.
The trip includes a visit to the town of Moulay Idriss Zerhoun, renowned as one of the holiest destinations in Morocco, where Idris I introduced Shia Islam in the 8th century and which was constructed using materials sourced from Volubilis.
Following this, you will traverse Meknes, initially founded as an Almoravid military outpost in the 11th century, celebrated for its medina and Moroccan Art Museum.
