Summary
The administrative center of France’s newly established Grand Est region, Metz has served as a hub of authority for over 2,000 years.
The Cour d’Or museum provides insights into the late antiquity and early medieval periods of eastern France, enabling visitors to comprehend the era when the Merovingian kings of Austrasia governed from this city.
One will observe that the historic structures in Metz possess a unique appearance, primarily due to their construction from Jaumont limestone, which is extracted from the Moselle area and exhibits a characteristic yellow hue attributed to the iron oxide within the stone.
Consequently, on sunny days, the city literally shines with brightness! Stroll through the avenues and gardens that once accommodated the ancient walls, and experience contemporary culture at the Pompidou center.
Let us explore the top attractions in Metz:
1. Metz Cathedral
Constructed over a span of 300 years from 1220 to 1552, Metz’s cathedral ranks among the tallest in Europe, featuring stunning vaults in the nave that rise to 42 meters.
Boasting more stained glass than any other cathedral worldwide, this edifice has earned the moniker “La Lanterne du Bon Dieu” (the Lord’s Lantern). The windows showcase creations by Gothic and Renaissance master glassmakers, alongside works from modern artists such as Marc Chagall and Jacques Villon.
Enhancing this sense of brilliance is the yellow Jaumont limestone, which gives the cathedral a luminous quality even on overcast winter days.
2. Centre-Pompidou Metz
Metz made a significant cultural impact in 2010 by inaugurating the first satellite of the Pompidou Centre from Paris.
This structure is a collaborative endeavor by three architects: Shigeru Ban, Jean de Gastines, and Philip Gumuchdijan. Its distinctive architecture is designed to evoke the shape of a Chinese bamboo hat.
Exhibitions within the expansive galleries are temporary or semi-temporary, featuring landmark displays as well as “Beacons,” which presents a rotating selection of paintings, sculptures, photographs, and illustrations from the vast collection of the National Museum of Modern Art in Paris.
Notable artists represented include Picasso, Fernand Léger, Joseph Beuys, Joan Miró, and Anish Kapoor.
3. La Cour d’Or Museum
This museum complex, which includes the historic former Petities Carmes Abbey, encompasses three museums that provide comprehensive insights into Metz’s illustrious Gallo-Roman and Merovingian heritage, along with its subsequent cultural developments.
The museum complex derives its name from the palace where the Austrasian Kings presided, resembling a labyrinth of chambers and corridors that take visitors on a journey filled with unforgettable artifacts, such as the 7th-century sculpted chancel from Saint Pierre-aux-Nonnains and archaeological remnants like the Roman baths situated in the basement.
Additionally, there is a fine arts gallery dedicated to the Metz School of the 19th century.
4. Église Saint-Pierre-aux-Nonnains
Dating back to 390 AD, this former church holds the distinction of being the oldest in France.
Initially, it functioned not as a place of worship but as a palaestra, where boxers and wrestlers trained, and formed part of a spa complex, remnants of which can still be observed externally.
The hall transformed into a church that became an abbey for women in the 7th century, approximately the same date as the chancel exhibited at the Cour d’Or museum.
Upon the construction of Metz’s citadel, the church was repurposed as a military warehouse and barracks until the 1900s.
Today, it operates as an exhibition hall and cultural center located between the Esplanade and the Arsenal.
5. Porte des Allemands
Stretching across the River Seille to the east of the old town, the magnificent Porte des Allemands is the last remaining castle bridge in France and represents a significant component of Metz’s ancient fortifications.
This structure essentially comprises a gate flanked by two sets of towers: angular, crenellated towers facing eastward towards the Saar and circular towers on the city side.
The name of the gate is associated with the Teutonic Knights, who established a hospice on the adjacent street during that era.
The gate serves as the focus of the “Circuit des Remparts”, a walking tour designed to lead visitors around the remaining sections of Metz’s walls.
6. Église Saint-Maximin
The choir, transept, and the square tower of this church are all from the 12th century and exemplify the Romanesque style.
On the right side of the transept, one may pause near the entrance to the chapel of the Gournays to observe the two three-centered arches that connect it with the rest of the church.
The stained glass windows were created by the artist, writer, and filmmaker Jean Cocteau in the early 1960s and were installed posthumously.
Displayed in ethereal blue and green pastel tones, these windows are the only known designs by him and merit close examination.
The church also boasts exceptional acoustics, making it worthwhile to check for any scheduled concerts during your visit.
7. Place Saint-Louis
The west side of this medieval square in the old city features a continuous terrace of Renaissance houses supported by an elegant arcade.
The arches evoke images reminiscent of a locale such as Tuscany rather than eastern France, illustrating the city’s prosperity during the Middle Ages.
At that period, many of these buildings were likely inhabited by early bankers from Lombardy in Italy, elucidating the architectural style.
Currently, the square serves as the venue for a remarkable Christmas market.
On number five, one can spot the engraving of a hand, which is believed to belong to the house of a glove maker who, after winning a legal dispute against a German competitor, received permission from the city to adorn his building with an ornamental hand.
8. Avenue Foch
Located south of the old town, this picturesque avenue showcases a variety of historicist Art Nouveau villas along its sides, with a footpath meandering through lawns, hedges, and flower beds.
This area not only serves as a delightful spot to spend some time, but also represents an interesting chapter in Metz’s history.
It was originally the site of the city’s ancient ramparts and featured a moat fed by the River Seille.
The ramparts were removed during Metz’s time as part of Germany, and the buildings currently present were constructed in the early 20th century, delineating the boundary between the historic center of Metz and the Nouvelle Ville to the south.
9. Gare de Metz
The city’s train station is an esteemed historic monument, constructed during Metz’s German era.
This magnificent structure, imbued with political significance, was commissioned by Wilhelm II and designed in the Rhenish Romanesque Revival style.
It is believed that Wilhelm himself contributed to the plans for the clock tower, which showcases a sculpture of the Frankish knight Roland, symbolizing German imperial protection over the city.
The station was engineered to facilitate the rapid movement of large numbers of troops, and its arrivals hall evokes the grandeur of a Holy Roman palace—an intentional design choice.
An interesting note is that the SNCF offices are now located within what were formerly Wilhelm II’s private quarters.
10. Esplanade
This splendid garden traces the path of Metz’s former fortifications, established on the site of an extensive ditch that was filled in after the demolition of the citadel in 1816. The garden features geometrically arranged lawns and hedges trimmed to precise angles, offering scenic views of Mont Saint-Quentin, which rises to the west of the city.
The Esplanade serves as a focal point for Metz’s public celebrations; the carnival fair occurs here in February and March, and the Mirabelle Fair takes place in late summer.
During the Christmas season, a skating rink is set up adjacent to Avenue Ney.
11. Le Temple Neuf
Another noteworthy landmark constructed during the German era is this Romanesque Revival church situated on the Petit-Saulcy river island, just a short distance from the Place de la Comédie.
Le Temple Neuf is the place of worship for Metz’s Protestant community and is built with dark gray sandstone, giving it a distinctly different ambiance than the city’s older monuments, which are predominantly made from yellow Jaumont limestone.
Illuminated at night, the church’s arcade openings radiate light akin to large lanterns, and the reflection of Le Temple Neuf in the waters of Pont Moyen has become one of Metz’s iconic views.
12. Covered Market
Owing to the French Revolution, Metz boasts one of the grandest covered markets in France.
Construction of this building commenced in the 1760s and was intended to serve as the Episcopal Palace.
However, following the Revolution at the century’s end, it was repurposed as a market after plans for its transformation into a courthouse were abandoned.
The market operates from Tuesday to Saturday, with a diverse array of stalls populating this side of the cathedral square on Saturdays.
Alongside stalls offering an appealing selection of cheeses, charcuterie, pastries, fruits, and vegetables, small eateries serve lunch, featuring traditional Moselle specialties and international fare like pizza.
13. Musée de la Guerre de 1870
While the Franco-Prussian War may seem distant now, it was undoubtedly one of the precursors to the First World War and thus had a profound influence on the 20th century.
This museum, situated at the site of some of the most intense fighting, delves into the war’s multiple causes and consequences.
Visitors will gain insights into the Treaty of Frankfurt, which annexed Moselle and Alsace to Germany for nearly half a century, alongside explorations of how the region transformed during that time.
Additionally, the museum features original weapons and uniforms alongside contemporary artworks, including pieces from the Panorama de Rezonville by Édouard Detaille, depicting the Battle of Mars-la-Tour.
14. Chapelle des Templiers
Situated on the grounds of the Arsenal cultural center, Metz’s Chapel of the Templars was constructed between the late 1100s and early 1200s, representing the last remnant of the commandery that once existed there.
The chapel’s octagonal layout, austere decorative style, and narrow windows with semi-circular arches identify it as a Romanesque structure; however, the ribbed vaulting and vibrant frescoes within showcase a Gothic influence.
These paintings, created in the early 1300s, embellish every wall space with vivid representations of apostles and various saints.
The surrounding Arsenal was erected in 1864 during Napoleon III’s reign, and the central hall underwent restoration and conversion into an auditorium in 1989.
15. Local Cuisine
It is impossible to discuss culinary offerings in Metz without highlighting the quiche lorraine, a pastry pie composed of eggs, crème fraîche, and bacon.
The first documented reference to this dish dates back to the early 17th century, originally including Emmental cheese, which still features in some variations.
The German culinary influence can be observed in potée, a cabbage stew that simmers for extended periods and is served with sausage and boiled potatoes.
Additionally, the damson and mirabelle plums cultivated in the surrounding countryside manifest themselves not only in tarts, brandies, and jams but also within some of the charcuterie produced in the Lorraine region.
