Summary
In Burgundy, situated along the navigable River Yonne, Auxerre serves as an inland port characterized by its charming old town and majestic churches that tower above the skyline.
The historic religious structures in Auxerre boast a depth of history far surpassing their outward appearance: The Abbaye Saint-Germain dates back to the Dark Ages, housing the earliest Christian church frescoes in France within its Frankish crypt.
As you traverse the pedestrian-friendly streets, you will be captivated by Auxerre’s quaint timber-framed homes and the delightful Quartier de la Marine neighborhood, where families once thrived through services related to the Yonne and Nivernais Canal.
These waterways offer the perfect opportunity to embark on a self-guided exploration of Burgundy’s picturesque wine-producing countryside, suitable for a day-long adventure or even longer.
Let us delve into the noteworthy activities in Auxerre:
1. Auxerre Cathedral
This impressive Gothic cathedral commenced construction in 1215 and occupies a site that has housed sacred structures since the 400s.
Auxerre Cathedral is comparable to any in northern France in terms of the elegance of its portal sculptures and stained glass windows.
Particularly admired are the 32 lancet windows in the choir’s ambulatory from the early 13th century, renowned for their vibrant blues and warm reds.
The three grand rose windows, crafted in the 16th century, are also noteworthy for their beauty.
The Romanesque crypt dates to the 1000s and features remarkable frescoes from the 1100s and 1200s within its apse chapel.
2. Abbaye Saint-Germain
Above ground, this historical Benedictine Abbey features 13th-century architectural styles, though damage inflicted during the revolution led to the separation of the Romanesque tower from the church nave.
The Carolingian crypt, however, is a wonder of the Early Middle Ages, offering a layered archaeological site with informative displays.
A grated walkway enables exploration of these ancient foundations, while notable stonework fragments are displayed in cases.
The frescoes, dating from 841 to 857, hold the distinction of being the oldest in France.
Visitors can experience artwork that primarily exists in illuminated manuscripts, having survived due to being plastered over until their rediscovery in 1927.
3. Wander the Old Town
To commence your visit, the pedestrian bridge spanning the Yonne offers a picturesque view of Auxerre, with its cathedral towers and churches prominent against the skyline.
The historic center of Auxerre is rich in culture, deserving of protection, and features numerous medieval structures, some adorned with corbels that extend the upper levels over the streets.
The local tourist office provides a detailed itinerary for all the significant landmarks to observe.
One of the most charming streets is the sloping Rue Fécauderie, where you should take note of the intricately carved timbers on the residences at the intersection with Rue Joubert.
4. Quartier de la Marine
The water-centric trades of Auxerre were established by the Yonne and are located a few streets away from the city center, giving this charming neighborhood a unique character.
The families residing and working in this area were once dependent on the Yonne, including water carriers, boatmen, tanners, and merchants.
This region helps one appreciate how this landlocked city was integrated into a vast network connecting it to both the Mediterranean and North Sea.
The streets and squares, such as Place Saint-Nicolas—dedicated to the patron saint of sailors and merchants—reflect the vibrant commercial activities that once thrived here.
5. Tour de l’Horloge
A notable feature in Auxerre’s pedestrian area is the 15th-century clock tower, which showcases intricate Gothic detailing.
The clock face, created in the 1600s, is embellished with gold and rests on a decorative turreted arch adjacent to the main tower.
Take a moment to examine the unique design of the clock, which measures solar and lunar movements through two elongated hands and two dials.
The tower itself replaced an older structure that was part of the Gallo-Roman wall and exhibits a circular design topped with a slate spire.
Originally serving as a prison, it was converted into a belfry in 1483.
6. Cadet Rousselle Statue
Guillaume Rousselle, the inspiration for the enduring children’s song “Cadet Rousselle,” served as Auxerre’s colorful 18th-century town crier and became an object of mild mockery during the Revolution.
The song gained popularity throughout the 1790s as men from Auxerre, having enlisted in the National Volunteers, shared it with individuals from other regions in France.
The statue located in the Old Town, crafted by François Brochet, features brass arrows embedded in the ground directing visitors to Rousselle’s residence and workplace in Auxerre.
7. A.J. Auxerre
While the local football team has seen better days, a significant chapter unfolded at the Stade de l’Abbé-Deschamps from the 1960s until 2005, during which Guy Roux maintained an unprecedented tenure as head coach.
Under Roux’s leadership, the team transitioned from amateur status to winning a Ligue 1 title in 1996. Football enthusiasts may appreciate attending a match at the stadium where celebrated players such as Eric Cantona, Basile Boly, and Laurent Blanc began their careers.
The team is currently competing in Ligue 2, and visitors can acquire tickets at the stadium on any match-day.
8. Musée Leblanc-Duvernoy
Paul Leblanc-Duvernoy, a prominent local figure known for his appreciation of the arts, used his elegant residence on Rue d’Egleny to host concerts for a wide circle of friends.
In 1926, he bequeathed his property, encompassing an extensive collection of paintings, furniture, and tapestries, to the city.
The museum showcases decor and artworks that reflect Leblanc-Duvernoy’s penchant for the style of the 18th century.
Particularly notable are its ceramics, including revolution-era faience considered among the finest collections in France.
These treasures are displayed in the first-floor apartments, while the attic features a comprehensive assembly of Puisaye sandstone pottery.
9. Natural History Museum
Situated in a stunning Louis XIII-style mansion to the west of the historic center, Auxerre’s Natural History Museum provides an insight into the region’s biodiversity and geology over millions of years.
The museum houses 80,000 specimens accumulated over two and a half centuries, spanning various fields, including mineralogy and paleontology.
Among these, nearly 60 specimens, primarily fossils of fish and crustaceans, are recognized as significant scientific references.
Causal visitors will especially enjoy viewing the skeletal remains of prehistoric bears discovered in the Caves of Arcy-sur-Cure and exploring the museum’s botanical garden.
10. Salle Eckmühl
Louis-Nicolas Davout, known as Napoleon’s “Iron Marshal,” hailed from Annoux, situated southeast of Auxerre.
In 1882, the marshal’s last daughter established a memorial room in Auxerre’s Palais des Comtes, featuring memorabilia from his life.
This room remained closed for several decades in the late 20th century but reopened in 2012, presenting an engaging and personal view of Davout’s life.
Visitors can admire the uniforms he wore during Napoleon’s coronation in 1804 and at the Emperor’s wedding to Marie-Louise in 1810. Furthermore, the museum contains a library with 2,500 books and an extensive collection of the marshal’s personal correspondence.
11. Chapelle des Visitandines
This chapel, located on Rue de Paris, was constructed in 1714 specifically for a convent and exemplifies the well-proportioned Jesuit Baroque style.
The symmetrical interior, shaped like a Greek cross with arms of equal length, is unique in Auxerre.
The elliptical dome is breathtaking; in addition to its architectural significance, visitors should see the collection of polychrome sculptures by François Brochet, a 20th-century artist native to Auxerre, whose work can also be found in various locations throughout the city, including the Cadet Rouselle statue.
12. Église Saint-Eusèbe
Having undergone multiple repairs and reconstructions over the millennium, Église Saint-Eusèbe is an intriguing blend of architectural styles.
The oldest component is the Romanesque tower, which dates back to the early 1100s.
Within, the nave features painted rib vaults of Gothic design, while the choir—a beautifully restored area—reflects Renaissance influences.
It is the choir that particularly captivates, as its ample stained glass windows illuminate the white stone pillars, giving them an ethereal glow.
13. Boat Trips
The Nivernais Canal roughly parallels the route of Auxerre’s Yonne and, upon completion in the late 18th century, interconnected two of France’s major rivers, the Loire and the Seine.
Once a route to transport Burgundy wine to Paris, the canal now serves recreational purposes, with Auxerre as a hub for various tour operators and rental companies.
Visitors may rent electric boats to admire the city from the water or embark on extended excursions into the picturesque countryside, passing charming wine villages along the way.
Additionally, a 90-minute guided tour aboard the Hirondelle provides insights into Auxerre’s vibrant river-based industries of yore.
14. Wine Tourism
Examining a map reveals the enticing names of Chablis, Irancy, and Saint-Bris, which illustrate that this region is a true paradise for wine enthusiasts.
The Chablis area, located just east of Auxerre, exclusively produces white wine from Chardonnay grapes.
This region’s cool climate imparts the distinctively dry and crisp characteristics associated with Chablis wines.
A visit to Domaine Alain Geoffroy or Domaine Alexandre will provide a comprehensive vineyard experience.
The town of Irancy resides in a valley surrounded by sturdy chalk hills, sheltering its vineyards from harsh winter conditions, thereby yielding exceptional local reds crafted from pinot noir grapes.
15. Cuisine
Burgundy’s exquisite gastronomy is yet another compelling aspect of the region’s charm.
Many signature local dishes are celebrated worldwide and embody the essence of French cuisine.
Wine serves as a crucial ingredient in several recipes, including beef bourguignon and coq au vin, both popular stews that typically incorporate mushrooms, carrots, and lardons.
Similarly valued as a national dish is escargot de Bourgogne, where snails are prepared in their shells with parsley and garlic butter.
East of Auxerre, Tonnerre is famous for the Gougère, delightful morsels of cheesy choux pastry.
