Summary
Culinary delights from around the globe, contemporary culture, and picturesque riverside vistas characterize Hammersmith, situated in West London along a bend in the Thames River.
Hammersmith Bridge marks the midpoint of the annual Boat Race between the prestigious Oxford and Cambridge universities. Lining the river, the Upper and Lower Mall feature historic rowing clubs, elegant Georgian townhouses, and notable pubs such as the Dove, which has hosted illustrious figures like Dylan Thomas and Ernest Hemingway.
For avant-garde theatrical performances, one should check the schedule at the Hammersmith Lyric Theatre, while the Apollo serves as a legendary venue for live music performances.
The Arts and Crafts Movement is prominently showcased at the house museums of William Morris and his associate Emery Walker.
Now, let us delve into the top attractions in Hammersmith:
1. King Street
Hammersmith’s main thoroughfare, King Street, served as the primary route to Windsor Castle for hundreds of years.
Along the street, posting houses historically provided refuge at regular intervals, many of which have since been transformed into pubs.
The area is conveniently served by three tube stations and offers a diverse array of culinary options you would expect from London.
This includes Lebanese, Italian, sushi, Chinese, refined gastropub fare at the Hampshire Hog, or more casual dining options at colorful establishments such as the Salutation, housed in one of the old posting houses.
At the eastern end lies the Lyric Square, which hosts the Hammersmith Food Market every Thursday, providing a plethora of choices including Caribbean salads, hog roast, Thai curries, crêpes, and freshly made pies.
2. Ravenscourt Park
It remains a curiosity how this 20-acre park has eluded the attention of most London residents.
Ravenscourt Park has its origins in the Palingswick Estate of the 12th century, which was renamed Ravenscourt 250 years ago.
After the estate was sold in the 19th century, the house functioned as Hammersmith’s first public library before it was demolished due to damage from incendiary bombs during World War II. The remaining stable block now hosts the park’s café, and the old brick viaduct of the District Line arches over the southern section of the park.
One delightful aspect of Ravenscourt Park is the persistence of the estate’s original landscaping, which includes mature cedars, plane trees, and a tranquil pond.
During summer months, visitors can enjoy an open-air cinema, or, on typical sunny days, families can partake in the nature trail, paddling pool, and an architecturally imaginative adventure playground.
3. Eventim Apollo
Overlooking the Hammersmith Flyover, this grand venue is rich with a legacy in rock and pop history.
The Apollo is an impressive Art Deco structure designed by Robert Cromie and inaugurated in 1932. Numerous landmark events in the music industry have taken place within its walls.
In 2014, Kate Bush returned to live performance at this venue after a 35-year hiatus; the iconic sound of the Apollo’s audience is featured at the beginning of Public Enemy’s ‘It Takes a Nation of Millions to Hold Us Back’; in 1986, Metallica delivered one of their final concerts with bassist Cliff Burton; and in 1958, Buddy Holly performed his last UK gigs here.
However, the most notable incident occurred in July 1973 when David Bowie famously declared the end of his Ziggy Stardust persona to a shocked audience. The Apollo remains a popular destination for major bands and artists, often sharing its stage with renowned comedians.
Names like Stephen Fry, Chris Tucker, Sarah Millican, and Dylan Moran graced its stage in late 2018.
4. Emery Walker’s House
A captivating preservation of the Arts and Crafts Movement, number 7 Hammersmith Terrace was the residence of printer and engraver Emery Walker, remaining virtually untouched since his death in 1933. The Georgian townhouse offers three guided tours every Thursday and Saturday from March to November.
Walker was a close associate of textile artist William Morris, who later moved to Hammersmith Terrace and subsequently to the nearby Kelmscott House.
He contributed the linoleum flooring in the entrance, several flat-weave rugs, and an assortment of patterned wall hangings.
Walker also inherited furniture from the well-known Arts and Crafts architect Philip Webb, and the drawing room features a secretaire crafted by Ernest Barnsley.
Additionally, the exhibition includes historical artifacts such as mementos from Walker’s travels, correspondence from Rudyard Kipling, and a first edition proof of Morris’s epic poem “The Earthly Paradise.”
5. WWT London Wetland Centre
Cross the Hammersmith Bridge into Barnes, and you will quickly arrive at a 100-acre nature reserve situated on the site of four former Victorian reservoirs.
The initiative to transform this former industrial area into wetlands was a pioneering project in the UK. Inaugurated in 2000, the centre has drawn species of birds rarely sighted elsewhere in London.
The visitor centre preserves a modest collection of rare waterfowl and otters, while the reserve features six bird hides and two observation towers.
Autumn is a particularly advantageous time to visit, as migrating species such as greenshanks, green sandpipers, black-tailed godwits, and raptors like ospreys congregate, coinciding with the arrival of bitterns for winter.
6. Lyric Hammersmith
Recognized as one of the leading producing theatres in the UK, the Lyric Theatre is celebrated for its bold and cutting-edge productions.
The original structure, designed by Frank Matcham, was inaugurated in 1895 and underwent external renovations in 1979, yet the 55-seat auditorium retains its opulent late-Victorian aesthetics.
For an insight into the Lyric Theatre’s offerings, during late 2018, audiences experienced “Othellomacbeth,” a concise two-hour reimagining of two of Shakespeare’s iconic plays.
In addition to its avant-garde performances, the Lyric Theatre plays a significant role in the local community, offering a busy schedule of classes and workshops in drama, music, dance, and coding for young individuals.
7. Hammersmith Bridge
Engineered by the distinguished Victorian architect Joseph Bazalgette, Hammersmith Bridge was inaugurated in June 1887 and is classified as a Grade II* monument.
This bridge is the second structure at this location, reusing the foundations of a suspension bridge designed by William Tierney Clark that was completed in 1827, which could not bear the increasing road traffic of the 19th century. The tipping point came in 1870, when the bridge struggled under the weight of approximately 12,000 spectators during the Boat Race.
Furthermore, the new bridge faced multiple attacks by the IRA and Real IRA, fortunately resulting in no casualties.
The last bombing incident occurred in 2000 and led to a two-year closure of the bridge.
8. Dove Public House
Far from an ordinary establishment, the Dove Public House has roots stretching back to the early 18th century, although its predecessor existed a century earlier.
Nestled in a narrow alley, this venue represents the sole remnant of Hammersmith Village, cleared away during the 1930s.
The front bar of the Dove boasts the title of the smallest bar room in the UK, and within, a brass plaque marks the high water mark from the 1928 Great Flood.
However, the Dove captures attention due to its notable clientele.
Charles II is believed to have taken his mistress Nell Gwyn to the predecessor of the Dove, while historical figures such as Ernest Hemingway, Graham Greene, Dylan Thomas, and William Morris (who lived adjacent) frequented the establishment during their lifetimes.
Perhaps the Dove’s most significant claim is that the poet James Thomson is thought to have penned the lyrics of “Rule Britannia!” within its walls.
9. Kelmscott House
Esteemed as one of the pivotal figures of the Arts and Crafts Movement, William Morris resided at this Georgian townhouse along the Upper Mall from 1878 until his passing in 1896. A polymath, Morris played a crucial role in the revival of British textile arts, was recognized as an early writer in the fantasy genre, and was also an advocate for socialism.
The basement and coach house of Kelmscott House house a museum dedicated to his life and works, accessible on Thursday and Saturday afternoons.
Managed by the William Morris Society, the museum features a collection of wallpapers, embroidery, printed cottons, woven hangings, a Hammersmith rug, and a printing press utilized by Morris.
The basement served as the location for him to weave his first carpets, while the coach house was the meeting venue for the Hammersmith branch of the Socialist League.
10. Furnivall Gardens
A serene locale for reflection, Furnivall Gardens is located near the crest of the meander, approximately 100 meters upriver.
Until the 1930s, this area was the mouth of the Hammersmith Creek, sustaining a modest fishing industry until the early 19th century.
The land experienced damage from a flying bomb during World War II and was subsequently transformed into a park commemorating the post-war Festival of Britain in 1951. Adjacent to the Georgian townhouse Westcott Lodge along the Lower Mall stands a lamppost gifted from Neukölln, Hammersmith’s sister city in Berlin.
This was presented in 1963 by the then Mayor of West Berlin, Willy Brandt, who later became Chancellor of the Federal Republic.
11. Thames Path
Hammersmith falls along the 184-mile route of the Thames Path, which originates near Cirencester and concludes at the Thames Barrier in Charlton.
The path runs along the north bank, meandering past newly constructed apartment buildings, stunning Georgian and Regency homes (such as Westcott Lodge and Kelmscott House), and quaint jetties along the river.
The picturesque views encompass protected green spaces along the southern bank (including the London Wetland Centre) that exude a semi-rural atmosphere.
Across the river, near Hammersmith Bridge, you will spot the Harrods Furniture Depository, constructed in 1894 and converted into housing in 2000. Further down the river is Craven Cottage, the historic venue for Premier League club Fulham FC, serving as a dignified alternative to contemporary football stadiums.
A walk upstream will lead you to the splendid Chiswick House in about half an hour, and Kew Gardens in approximately 90 minutes.
12. St Paul’s Church
Hammersmith’s parish church is discreetly situated beside the Hammersmith Flyover, adjacent to the tube station.
Positioned in a green area where office workers from the surrounding blocks gather for lunch during summer, the church was initially constructed in the 1600s but underwent reconstruction in the 19th century to cater to the ascending population.
The architecture mimics Early English Gothic style, characterized by pointed arches in the nave, formed by clusters of slender stone shafts.
The most compelling monument is the bust of Charles I, sculpted by French artist Hubert Le Sueur and commissioned by the Royalist Sir Nicholas Crispe.
Visitors should also seek the memorial to William Tierney Clark, the designer of the original Hammersmith Bridge, inaugurated in 1827.
13. Shepherd’s Bush Market
Located adjacent to the viaduct for the Hammersmith and City line, Shepherd’s Bush Market has operated since 1914. Open Monday to Saturday, it has adapted to the evolution of the surrounding cityscape while retaining its authentic character.
The market features over 90 vendors, reflecting West London’s multicultural community.
Visitors can find fresh produce, fabrics (a specialty), home goods, accessories, and clothing.
Nonetheless, perhaps the most compelling reason to visit is the freshly prepared cuisine, with options ranging from Nepalese curry to falafel.
14. The Boat Race
Since 1829, the Men’s Boat Race has been a staple of the UK’s sporting calendar, featuring a rowing competition between the boat clubs of Cambridge and Oxford University. The open-weight “eights” race has been held annually since 1856, with the score narrowly favoring Cambridge, which boasts 83 wins against Oxford’s 80 as of 2018. Hammersmith lies directly along the 4.2-mile course, which winds upriver from Putney to Mortlake.
The pedestrian-only Lower Mall, situated to the west of Hammersmith, provides an excellent vantage point to witness the competition, particularly if one can secure a seat at a pub table along the path.
The race typically occurs on a Saturday in March or April, conveniently two weeks prior to Easter.
15. Queen’s Club Championships
Regarded as one of the oldest tennis championships globally, the prestigious Queen’s Club Championships takes place at the private Queen’s Club in West Kensington every mid-June.
The inaugural tournament was held in 1890, just four years after the founding of the club.
As a significant event in the grass court season leading up to Wimbledon, the tournament has recently been elevated to the ATP World Tour 500 Series, with a recent increase in the Centre Court’s capacity to nearly 9,000 seats. This prestigious event has been a favorite of Andy Murray, who won five times between 2009 and 2016 and joins an esteemed lineup of past champions, including Pete Sampras, Boris Becker, Jimmy Connors, Stefan Edberg, Andy Roddick, Lleyton Hewitt, and John McEnroe.
Tickets are available for purchase starting in early March.
