Summary
Located across the Thames from the City of London, Southwark served as the primary crossing point for hundreds of years. London Bridge was the sole bridge in London before the construction of Westminster Bridge in 1750. Historically, Southwark was known for its free traders, criminals, and sex workers operating outside the regulations of the City.
Individuals would also cross the river for leisure, leading to the establishment of the Globe Theatre in Bankside at the onset of the 17th century.
The renowned modern replica, Shakespeare’s Globe, sits by the river, alongside several other Thames-side attractions including Tate Modern, Millennium Bridge, HMS Belfast, and the iconic Tower Bridge.
Though Southwark extends all the way to Crystal Palace, this guide will focus primarily on the riverside areas of Southwark proper and Bermondsey.
1. Tower Bridge
When one envisions an iconic landmark that epitomizes London, Tower Bridge undoubtedly comes to mind. Constructed in 1894, this bascule and suspension bridge is designed in an ornate neo-Gothic style, forming an elegant ensemble with the Tower of London to the north and Norman Foster’s City Hall (2002) to the south.
The 1,000-ton bascules, which rise 8.6 meters above the Thames, facilitate river traffic approximately 1,000 times a year.
Connecting the two towers are high-level walkways that initially allowed public access but were closed in 1910 due to their unwelcome atmosphere. These walkways now form a significant aspect of the bridge’s museum, offering splendid views of London.
The museum narrates the history and statistics behind the bridge’s construction, guiding visitors through the preserved Victorian engine rooms where the original coal-driven engine remains.
2. Tate Modern
Inaugurated at the former Bankside Power Station in 2000, Tate Modern ranks among the largest museums dedicated to modern and contemporary art worldwide.
The structure, which began construction shortly after World War II, was conceived by Giles Gilbert Scott, the designer of the iconic red telephone box. The museum skillfully utilizes the power station’s impressive scale, particularly in the Turbine Hall, which hosts significant installations by artists such as Olafur Eliasson and Anish Kapoor.
Tate Modern’s extensive collection of modern art is showcased in themed galleries. For instance, the “Artist and Society” gallery investigates art within a social and political framework, while “Materials and Objects” explores unconventional materials and methods.
For an insightful introduction, the “Start Display” area consists of three rooms exhibiting notable works from the collection, featuring pieces by Kandinsky, Yves Klein, Alexander Calder, Matisse, and William Eggleston.
3. Shakespeare’s Globe
In 1997, this faithful replica of the open-air Globe Theatre was inaugurated on Bankside, in proximity to the site of the original theatre.
The initial Globe, constructed by William Shakespeare’s playing company, the Lord Chamberlain’s Men, in 1599, was destroyed by fire in 1613, rebuilt, and ultimately closed by the Puritans in 1642. This new half-timbered Shakespeare’s Globe approximates the original in its design, utilizing oak and incorporating modifications for fire safety.
The theatre stands as a tribute to the greatest writer in the English language and serves as one of the optimal venues for enjoying his works. In addition to the primary open-air theatre, the Sam Wanamaker Playhouse opened in 2014, recreating the ambience of a Jacobean indoor theatre.
Guided tours are available, providing narratives about the original 1599 Globe, along with regular “Study Days” featuring interpretations of Shakespeare’s plays by Globe artists and esteemed Shakespeare scholars.
4. Borough Market
London’s most beloved permanent food market has operated at this site since at least the 13th century and is enclosed within a stunning metal and glass structure from the mid-1850s.
Historically, Borough Market focused primarily on fresh produce; while this continues to be evident, the main attraction has shifted to specialty foods.
Artisanal chocolates, imported olives, a plethora of cheeses from across the UK and Europe, nut butters, French pastries, goat milk ice cream, truffles, and an assortment of preserves and chutneys are just a few of the items available.
The market also offers an array of dining options at nearby cafes, bars, gastropubs, seafood vendors, and noodle houses.
5. The Shard
The London’s skyline is ever-evolving; it underwent a dramatic transformation during the construction of this skyscraper designed by Renzo Piano, which reached completion in 2012 after more than a decade of planning. Standing at just under 310 meters, the Shard is the tallest building in the UK and in Western Europe.
Piano’s architectural vision sought to resonate with the numerous church spires that characterize the London skyline, and the name “The Shard” originated from a derisive comment regarding the original design proposal.
Visitors can ascend to the tower’s summit via “The View from The Shard,” which was made accessible to the public in 2013. The experience includes a triple-level indoor gallery on the 69th floor and a partially outdoor platform at the 72nd floor, accompanied by an original score performed by the London Symphony Orchestra.
Visitors are treated to 360-degree views that extend over 40 miles, encompassing all of Greater London, while interactive “Tell:scopes” assist in identifying more than 200 landmarks.
6. Southwark Cathedral
Since its foundation in the early 12th century until 1538, this solemn riverside Gothic church functioned as part of an Augustinian priory.
Subsequent to the Dissolution of the Monasteries, it was preserved as a parish church and was designated a cathedral in 1905 when the Diocese of Southwark was established.
The layout of Southwark Cathedral reflects a 200-year construction phase that commenced after the Great Fire of 1212, and has not undergone significant alterations, aside from the nave, which was reconstructed in the late 1800s.
Visitors will find various monuments inside, most notably the memorial to the poet John Gower (d. 1408), located at the east end of the north aisle, notable for its vivid 15th-century polychrome painting.
In the same aisle, a rare wooden recumbent effigy of a knight, dating back to around 1280, can be seen.
7. Millennium Bridge
The suspension footbridge that spans the Thames from the entrance to Tate Modern has been operational since June 2000. Initially, the Millennium Bridge faced stability issues, necessitating its closure just two days after opening, reopening in February 2002 after repairs.
As an architectural feature, the Millennium Bridge is visually striking, especially when illuminated at night, but it is the viewpoints that enhance the visit. A clear line of sight to St Paul’s at the northern end can be observed.
The river vista extends to Tower Bridge in the east and Charing Cross Station in the west, with the City’s contemporary towers prominently featured in the foreground.
8. Imperial War Museum London
The historic Bethlem Royal Hospital, characterized by its grand portico and dome, serves as the backdrop for the Imperial War Museum London.
The museum relocated to this site in the 1930s, with a pair of 15-inch guns from First World War battleships HMS Resolution and HMS Ramillies unveiled on the lawn in 1968.
While much of the original hospital building functions as offices, the galleries are housed in a five-floor extension constructed in the 1980s.
Three permanent exhibitions are available for exploration. “Turning Points: 1934-1945” features artifacts and personal narratives from the Second World War, detailing bombing campaigns and significant events such as D-Day.
“The Lord Ashcroft Gallery” houses the world’s largest collection of Victoria Crosses, which document acts of bravery recognized by this highest military honor. Lastly, the “First World War Galleries” present over 1,300 objects, illustrating the conflict from a British and Colonial perspective.
9. HMS Belfast
HMS Belfast, managed by the Imperial War Museum, is a WWII-era Town-class light cruiser that has been moored between London Bridge and Tower Bridge since 1971. This vessel is one of the most significant surviving vessels from the Royal Navy during the Second World War.
HMS Belfast endured damage from a mine in 1939, escorted Arctic convoys to the Soviet Union in 1943, and participated in the Battle of North Cape in December 1943. The ship’s artillery fired some of the initial shots during the Normandy Landings in 1944. Visitors can explore all nine decks of HMS Belfast via ladders, complemented by personal accounts that enrich the tour experience.
10. The Old Operating Theatre Museum and Herb Garret
Concealed within the attic of the 18th-century St Thomas’ Church is the oldest surviving operating theatre in Europe, accessible via a 52-step staircase.
Constructed in 1703, this Baroque church was built by the governors of St Thomas’ Hospital, which occupied this site since the 12th century before relocating to Lambeth in the 1860s. For its initial century, the attic served as a storage area for medicinal herbs, before being converted into a surgical theatre in 1822 when the hospital’s female surgical ward was adjacent to the church.
Following the hospital’s move, the theatre was forgotten and remained undiscovered until 1957. The exhibition illustrates some of the grim pre-anaesthetic surgical procedures performed in the theatre, showcasing instruments used in childbirth, trepanning, bloodletting, and cupping.
Additionally, visitors can learn about the extensive history of St Thomas’ Hospital and its association with Florence Nightingale.
11. Winchester Palace
Located at the eastern end of Clink Street, a monument that may easily be overlooked awaits your attention along the riverside promenade.
Behind railings as an English Heritage site rest the ruins of the great hall of Winchester Palace.
This structure served as the London residence for the Bishops of Winchester, who held significant power in Medieval England, paralleling the Archbishop of Canterbury’s residence at Lambeth Palace.
The site features an explanatory board from English Heritage. The most striking feature is the impressive west wall, which retains a remarkably well-preserved rose window.
The great hall, dating back to the 12th century, incorporates Tudor modifications. The palace was converted in the 1600s into tenements and warehouses, culminating in its destruction by fire in 1814, revealing the medieval stonework observable today.
12. Clink Prison Museum
In Medieval times, the Bishop of Winchester controlled a significant portion of Southwark, known as the Liberty of the Clink.
Adjacent to Winchester Palace, he administered a notorious prison, established around 1144 (possibly earlier), potentially making it the oldest prison for both men and women in the country.
The term “clink” has become synonymous with prisons, illustrating the facility’s historical significance. Individuals owing debts to the Bishop, along with heretics and religious dissenters, were confined within the Clink, and as Southwark was traditionally viewed as a disreputable area, drunkards and sex workers frequently found themselves imprisoned.
The prison was set ablaze during a riot in 1780, and today a light-hearted museum exists on the site.
This museum evokes the sights, sounds, and smells of the infamous prison, narrating the stories of certain inmates while displaying replicas of medieval torture devices, complemented by archaeological discoveries from the facility.
13. Golden Hinde
A short distance from Winchester Palace along Bankside, one will find a galleon that has been docked at St Mary Overie Dock since 1996. The Golden Hinde, constructed in 1973, is a replica of Sir Francis Drake’s ship (Golden Hind), which he navigated around the globe from 1577 to 1580. The replica has traveled an impressive distance, covering 140,000 miles, and has circumnavigated the globe like its predecessor.
The Golden Hinde functions as a museum ship, featuring reenactors portraying Tudor sailors who share insights about life at sea during the Elizabethan era.
Visitors are welcome to board and explore the ship or participate in guided tours for an extensive account of Drake’s voyage.
14. Mercato Metropolitano
This sustainable street food market has rapidly emerged within two expansive halls of a former light industrial site along Newington Causeway by the railway arches.
As suggested by its name, Mercato Metropolitano predominantly features Italian vendors offering ravioli, arancini, gelato, and Neapolitan pizza, accompanied by a diverse range of global cuisines.
Options include raclette, an Argentine barbecue, Moroccan tajines, Lebanese cuisine, churros, crêpes, Mexican food, and barbecue among others.
This trendy venue offers craft beers, innovative cocktails, and artisanal gin, with shaded courtyards available for use during favorable weather.
Beyond food, activities such as pizza-making workshops, yoga classes, and a vintage market are available, with some of the produce sourced from an on-site urban farm.
15. Maltby Street Market
Situated beneath the imposing arches of London Bridge – Greenwich Viaduct (1836), Maltby Street Market provides a compact alternative to the nearby Borough Market, operating solely on weekends.
Bermondsey is undergoing rapid gentrification, and this market serves as an indicator of the evolving area, despite not yet attracting many tourists from the riverfront.
With over 30 stalls, some occupying entire arches, visitors can purchase artisanal coffee, limited edition wines, craft gin distilled locally, peri-peri sauces from Mozambique, and imported Greek olive oil.
A diverse offering of street food is present, ranging from gourmet hot subs to German sausages, gyozas, charcoal-grilled British steaks, decadent brownies, and upscale grilled cheese sandwiches.
