Summary
A practical port city, Sète was meticulously planned and constructed during the 1660s as the Mediterranean endpoint of the ambitious Canal du Midi. The city continues to accommodate significant maritime traffic and is interwoven with waterways, ideal for leisurely strolls or scenic cruises. Notable French artists, poets, and musicians, such as Georges Brassens and Paul Valéry, hail from Sète, and their legacies are commemorated through attractions like the Musée Paul Valéry, located on a terrace overlooking the water. The optimal time to visit is in August when the entire city gathers along the quayside to witness the captivating water jousts, a cherished tradition for over 350 years.
1. Sète Old Port
With its grid-like streets, canals, and bridges, the city presents a unique streetscape unlike any in France. One could easily spend an afternoon meandering along the quays, occasionally stopping to admire the colorful houses and historical warehouses, and enjoying lunch by the waterfront. Canal Royal represents the eastern culmination of the Canal du Midi, allowing vessels to navigate from the Atlantic to the Mediterranean since the 17th century. Observe the statue of the jouster on the Pont de la Civette while watching fishing trawlers and leisure boats come in and out of the harbor.
2. Musée Paul Valéry
Situated on a terrace near the summit of Mont Saint-Clair, this museum is named after the esteemed early-20th-century poet and philosopher Paul Valéry, a native of Sète. The galleries encompass the city’s history to fine art, including an extensive account of the famous jousts, documenting results since 1666 and showcasing antique shields and lances. A dedicated room for Paul Valéry features manuscripts, recorded recitals of his work, and rare copies of his texts. Afterward, enjoy the views of the Mediterranean and the maritime cemetery from the café on the terrace or explore the gardens where musical, theatrical, and literary events take place during summer evenings.
3. Cimeti ère Marin
After exploring the museum named in his honor, one might visit the grave of Paul Valéry, located in the same picturesque setting he eulogized in his poem “Le Cimeti ère Marin.” This captivating location features a maritime cemetery perched on a cliff overlooking the deep blue Mediterranean waters. Valéry’s final resting place is marked under the Grassi surname, derived from his mother’s lineage. Additionally, Jean Vilar, a notable figure in 20th-century theater, is interred here, significantly influencing French theater from the 1940s onward.
4. Water Jousting
Each August, Sète commemorates its patron saint during the Fête de la Saint Louis. The highlight of this festival is the water jousting event held in Canal Royal, where two contestants face off on platforms connected to crewed rowboats, using lances and wooden shields to attempt to displace their opponent into the water. This jousting tournament draws large audiences, prompting the construction of stands along the quays beside the canal. Competitors partake in a tradition that dates back to the city’s inception, as Sète’s founding in 1666 was marked by similar water jousts. Accompanying the jousting are various street performances and outdoor venues known as bodegas.
5. Espace Georges Brassens
Georges Brassens, the poet and songwriter hailing from Sète, became a beloved cultural icon whose career extended from the post-war years until his passing in 1981. This exhibition, dedicated to his life and work, utilizes a multilingual audio guide to capture the essence of his music and lyrics. As visitors traverse the galleries, they are continually immersed in Brassens’ language and compositions. Additionally, those interested may learn about his formative years, the literary figures who influenced him, and the narratives behind songs such as “L’Auvergnat,” “La Gorille,” and “Les Copains d’Abord.”
6. Musée International des Arts Modestes (MIAM)
Situated in a repurposed waterside warehouse along Canal Royal, the MIAM focuses on “Art Modeste,” similar to outsider art or naïve art. This category celebrates even the simplest human-made items, such as Barbie dolls, repositioning them within a unique context that grants them meaning. The works exhibited vary widely, encompassing imaginative and whimsical pieces as well as thought-provoking art. Temporary exhibitions are refreshed every few months, and a comprehensive schedule of talks and workshops is available.
7. Théâtre de la mer
Fort Saint-Pierre, established near the entrance to the harbor in the 1740s, was designed to protect Sète from frequent incursions by foreign navies. The fortress served a military purpose until the conclusion of World War II, after which it was transformed into an exceptional performance venue in the late 1950s. Initially hosting stage productions, this venue eventually shifted to predominantly feature musical acts. Regardless of the event—be it a touring artist or festivals such as Fiest’A Sète or Jazz à Sète—attending performances here is a worthwhile experience, particularly when the moonlight reflects on the water.
8. Mont Saint-Clair
The inclines of Sète’s hill are notably steep in certain areas, enhancing the breathtaking vistas from its 175-meter peak. If hiking is not feasible, public transportation or driving options are available. This massif was once an independent island, its slopes adorned with villas and artistic ateliers built for Italian fishermen. Conversely, the western slopes offer a tranquil wooded environment suitable for leisurely strolls. At the summit, the views are stunning, complemented by a platform equipped with benches for observing the port, canals, and Thau Lagoon.
9. Notre-Dame-de-la-Salette
After the strenuous climb to the hilltop, one might hesitate to descend immediately. A noteworthy distraction is this unusual chapel, frequented by fishermen before setting sail to pray before the Madonna de la Salette. Consecrated in 1864, the chapel was built on the remains of a 17th-century fort, integrating part of the bastion into its architecture. Inside, visitors can admire vibrant modern frescoes reminiscent of the 20th-century religious murals painted by artists such as Cocteau, Foujita, and Matisse in other parts of France.
10. Saint-Louis Lighthouse
The experience of visiting this landmark adds to its allure; the lighthouse is located at the western tip of the harbor wall, known as Môle Saint-Louis. This structure extends 650 meters, providing an excellent perspective of the marina and its array of masts, alongside Mont Saint-Clair. This path is longstanding, dating back to the city’s inception, while the beacon at its end, constructed in 1680, was nearly destroyed by German mines during the war but was restored shortly thereafter and is now accessible to visitors. Visitors may ascend the 126 steps for panoramic 360° views of the city, harbor, sea, and commercial port.
11. Beaches
Beginning to the west of Mont Saint-Clair, there exists a continuous stretch of 12 kilometers of golden sand, featuring no fewer than ten beaches that were awarded the prestigious Blue Flag designation in 2016. These beaches are situated on an expansive sandbank, reaching up to 1.5 kilometers in width, known as the Lido, with minimal establishments aside from ancient salt flats and vineyards. Consequently, the further one ventures along the beach, the quieter the atmosphere becomes. To earn the Blue Flag designation, facilities must be of the highest standard, equipped with toilets, showers, six lifeguard stations, and provisions for individuals with disabilities.
12. Boat Trips
One might find it challenging to fully grasp Sète’s deep connection to the sea without embarking on a vessel for a brief journey. Immediately noticeable is that the city’s many bridges appear surprisingly low from the water, occasionally requiring passengers to duck. The city’s warehouses and brightly painted apartment buildings provide delightful views, often enhanced by a running commentary in French and printed materials for non-French speakers. Additionally, specialized excursions are available, such as tours to the extensive oyster and mussel beds in the Thau Lagoon.
13. Watersports
With the sea, Thau Lagoon, and Canal du Midi, there exists a diverse array of options for those inclined to engage in water activities. These options may range from pirogue excursions in the lagoon to open-sea kayaking along the coastline. Most experiences are accessible to novices as they tend to be guided. Furthermore, for those who may be apprehensive about the sea, there are opportunities to navigate the Canal du Midi or try stand-up paddleboarding on the buoyant, saline waters of Thau.
14. Petit Train
A substantial proportion of arrivals in Sète come by cruise ship, often with limited time to explore and appreciate the attractions. In such instances, or when little legs are unprepared for an afternoon exploring the city, the tourist train presents a practical option. Departing from Quai Général Durand, it navigates around the commercial port as well as the historic area, encompassing landmarks such as the Théâtre de la Mer and Saint-Louis Lighthouse.
15. Gastronomy
If one has a penchant for fish and seafood, Sète offers a delightful array of options. The Thau Lagoon, renowned for being the largest and deepest in Languedoc, has been a source of mussels, oysters, clams, winkles, and sea urchins since ancient times, ensuring that the “fruits de mer” served here are extraordinarily fresh. The local waters yield monkfish, cuttlefish, bream, squid, and octopus, which feature prominently in various traditional recipes, including stuffed squid and the renowned “tielles,” savory pies filled with octopus, often taken onboard by fishermen.
