Summary
Situated along the Romantic Road in Middle Franconia, Rothenburg ob der Tauber is an enchanting historic town that initially appears almost surreal. To enter this captivating locale, one traverses a formidable defense system consisting of over 40 towers, largely unchanged since the days of the King of Sweden and Count of Tilly, who visited approximately 400 years ago.
This protective structure encloses a picturesque town characterized by elegant patrician residences and charming half-timbered buildings adorned with turrets, wooden bay windows, red roof tiles, and vibrant flower boxes.
During its peak, Rothenburg served as an Imperial Free City, directly answerable only to the Holy Roman Emperor and ranking among the ten largest cities of the Empire.
The striking Renaissance town hall located in the market square epitomizes Rothenburg’s historical significance during those times.
Let us delve into the top attractions in Rothenburg ob der Tauber:
1. Town Wall
As an Imperial Free City, defense was crucial for Rothenburg during the Medieval period. The city has preserved its 46 defensive towers and approximately four kilometers of covered walls, which have been restored and equipped with informative displays.
Embarking on a two-hour themed walk known as the Rothenburger Turmweg allows visitors to explore the technical aspects of various gates and towers, as well as significant historical events from the past 800 years.
You might find yourself pausing frequently to admire the panoramic views over the town’s red rooftops and the scenic Tauber Valley.
The Turmweg further connects with six additional themed trails throughout the town and the vineyards surrounding Rothenburg, encouraging visitors to follow their curiosity.
2. Rathaus
The town hall of Rothenburg is sectioned into two parts: The primary Renaissance building, completed in 1578, faces the market square and features a Baroque arcade at its base, a three-storey oriel at its corner, and a winding staircase tower above the arcade.
This structure exemplifies some of the finest Renaissance architecture in the German-speaking regions.
It was constructed to replace the east wing of the original 13th-century Gothic town hall, which was destroyed by fire in 1501. The remaining white west wing still stands and features the imperial and city coat of arms on its triangular gable.
During summer, and on weekends in winter, visitors can ascend the watchtower for a nominal fee to enjoy the sweeping views over Rothenburg’s rooftops.
3. Marktplatz
A comprehensive account of the significant events that have transpired in the square adjacent to the town hall would require an entire article.
In 1474, this very location was where Holy Roman Emperor Frederick III granted the territory of Holstein to King Christian of Denmark. Another notable tale, possibly apocryphal, originates from the Thirty Years’ War: Mayor Georg Nusch is said to have convinced the Holy Roman commander Count of Tilly to spare the town by drinking a wager of 3.25 liters of wine.
This moment is reenacted by the automatons at the Ratstrinkstube on the square’s northern side at the top of every hour between 10:00 and 22:00. A year later, in 1632, the rival commander Gustavus Adolphus took residence in the town hall while passing through Rothenburg with his forces.
4. Burggarten
The Hohenstaufen Holy Roman Emperors established their castle along this bend in the Tauber River; however, after it was destroyed in an earthquake in 1356, the stones were repurposed for the construction of Rothenburg’s defensive walls.
The only remnants include the Blasiuskapelle, which has been converted from the castle’s grand hall and now hosts a memorial for the victims of both World Wars.
From the terrace, one can gaze down upon the Tauber Valley and admire the southern quarters of the city.
The formal garden, dating back to the 17th and 18th centuries, is situated at the center, featuring eight sandstone sculptures representing the four seasons and the four elements.
Notably, at the far end of the garden on the opposing bank stands the distinctive Topplerschlösschen, a defensive tower with a residential structure atop it.
5. Plönlein
If there exists a singular image that embodies Rothenburg, it is this junction on Untere Schmiedgasse.
The street diverges to the south into upper and lower lanes, flanked by half-timbered and stone houses.
From this junction, two 13th-century gates come into view: Siebersturm lies at the upper level, while Kobolzellerturm curves to the right, leading to the Tauber Valley.
The most charming structure at this intersection is a narrow half-timbered house featuring a pointed gable and a small fountain at its forefront.
6. St James’ Church
The city’s principal Gothic church, consecrated in 1485, took over 170 years to complete.
Its two towers are surmounted with spires embellished with crockets.
Make sure to observe the tall, narrow windows in the eastern chancel dating back to the 14th century, illustrating scenes from the Passion and the Life of Mary.
However, your first stop should be the western gallery, which houses Tilman Riemenschneider’s remarkable Holy Blood altarpiece, crafted in the early 16th century and regarded as one of his finest works.
The central panel features the Last Supper, framed by intricate vegetal motifs showcasing exceptional craftsmanship.
Near the altarpiece’s summit, a reliquary cross dating back to 1270 is beautifully enveloped by the decoration.
7. Medieval Crime and Justice Museum
Housed within the historic commandery of the Order of St John, this often intense museum spans 1,000 years of crime and its repercussions.
Special emphasis is placed on Medieval and Renaissance trials, along with methods of torture and punishment.
While the various apparatuses may evoke a sense of morbid intrigue, they also present significant insights into religious inquisitions and the evolution of policing and judicial systems displayed on the second floor.
Exhibits include legal manuscripts, a collection of seals, and historical prints depicting trials.
On the first floor, one can find an authentic iron maiden, along with pillories and a disturbing array of devices tailored specifically for women, such as shrew’s fiddles and scold’s bridles.
Outside, a genuine “cucking stool” for unruly women and dishonest tradesmen is on display.
8. Georgsbrunnen
Another notable feature in the market square is a fountain that has existed since 1446. This monument is positioned between the town hall and the Fleisch- und Tanzhaus, a unique half-timbered hall constructed over the wing of the town hall that was destroyed by fire in 1240. The fountain itself is fixed over a well eight meters deep, with a capacity of 100,000 liters.
At its center stands a 16th-century Renaissance column crowned with a sculpture of St George and the Dragon.
9. Rödertor
One notable stop along the wall walk is this gate, which features its own defensive complex at the southeastern entrance to the old town.
During peaceful times, travelers would be greeted by two customs huts with pointed roofs.
Beyond that lies a walkway leading to the half-timbered outer bailey, originally used for storage and stabling purposes.
From here, visitors cross the moat to reach the main tower, the oldest part of the complex which dates back to the early 13th century.
This tower also served as a signaling post during Medieval times and, along with the town hall, is one of only two towers in Rothenburg that offer an opportunity for climbing.
Admission costs €1.50, and the tower is accessible on weekend afternoons.
10. Schmiedgasse
Translating to “forge lane,” Schmiedgasse descends gently from the market square and is lined with restaurants, cafes, and charming shops situated within historic buildings.
Among the notable structures is the Baumeisterhaus (Master Builder House) at number 3, erected in 1596 and named after Leonhard Weidmann, who was also responsible for the town hall’s architecture.
Between the mullioned windows on the first and second floors stand 14 caryatids representing the Seven Deadly Sins and Seven Virtues.
Additionally, there exists a rather grim historical narrative associated with Schmiedgasse: In 1525, amid the German Peasants’ War, Casimir, Margrave of Brandenburg-Bayreuth, executed 17 local ringleaders by beheading them in the market square.
Their remains were reportedly left on display for a day, with their blood flowing like a stream down Schmiedgasse.
11. Imperial City Museum
This historical museum occupies a 13th-century Dominican convent in Rothenburg.
The Gothic cloisters are well-preserved, as is the convent kitchen, one of the oldest in Germany.
Exhibitions feature an extensive collection of weapons and armor, alongside artifacts that reflect daily life in Rothenburg, including clothing, coins, and Jewish liturgical items.
You may recall Georg Nusch and his wager involving wine, supposedly saving the city; his tankard is undoubtedly a highlight of the exhibition.
Additionally, the museum hosts valuable Late Gothic sculptures sourced from churches and monasteries throughout the town, along with the Rothenburg Passion, a series of twelve altarpiece panels painted in 1494.
12. Gerlachschmiede
After passing beneath the Rödertor, you will encounter this charming old structure originally built on Wenggasse in 1469. The Gerlachschmiede is an antique forge with a delightful triangular gable supported by wooden beams.
This building was one of many in the southeastern section of Rothenburg lost during a bombing raid in March 1945, though it was faithfully reconstructed by 1948. A blacksmith worked here, producing horseshoes, until 1967. The street sign displays the hammer and tongs of the locksmith and blacksmith guild, while the notable coat of arms on the gable is a new design from 1950.
13. Tauberbrücke
Located beneath Rothenburg’s western slope lies a scene reminiscent of a Romantic landscape painting.
The Tauberbrücke is a bridge boasting two levels of arches that extend across the verdant meadows and vineyards of the Tauber Valley for 123 meters.
This bridge’s history dates back to 1330 and formed part of a trade route connecting the cities of Augsburg and Würzburg.
Significant years in the bridge’s timeline include 1791 when the upper level collapsed and required reconstruction, and 1945 when the German army demolished it, leading to a complete rebuilding in 1956.
14. Staudthof
As you traverse Herrngasse, you will come across the oldest patrician house in the city.
The Staudthof, owned by the von Staudt family since 1697, presents a relatively modest facade from the street view.
However, once you enter, the property’s grandeur becomes apparent.
The Staudthof has roots tracing back to the 12th century, predating Rothenburg’s city walls, thus featuring its own defensive wall.
This area includes a 120-meter courtyard flanked by a barn and stables, centered around a magnificent garden housing two yew trees, which have been thriving since 1678. The site exemplifies the lifestyle of Rothenburg’s historical patrician class, which primarily accrued wealth through land ownership rather than trade.
15. Reiterlesmarkt
Germany is particularly enchanting during Christmas when festive markets emerge in every city center.
Rothenburg is no exception, featuring a market that possesses a fairy-tale atmosphere amidst its backdrop of gabled houses adorning Marktplatz and its connecting streets.
If you are fortunate enough to visit while it is snowing, the city transforms into a living Christmas card.
Moreover, this market, operational from December 1st to 23rd, has roots extending back to the 15th century and boasts unique traditions.
One notable aspect is the market’s namesake, the Reiterle, a mythical Teutonic horseman originally tasked with collecting the souls of the deceased.
Though this may sound somewhat eerie, today’s Reiterle serves as a cheerful herald who inaugurates the market each year.
