Summary
One of the Home Counties, Hertfordshire borders London to the north, and its recent history is grounded in its proximity to the capital.
“New Towns” such as Stevenage and pioneering Garden Cities like Welwyn and Letchworth emerged in the 20th century, offering individuals the combined benefits of urban and pastoral living.
However, what is most captivating about Hertfordshire is the abundance of peculiarities: Medieval caves with indecipherable carvings, an extensive taxidermy collection owned by a Victorian eccentric, and a grand fairytale grotto created by a Quaker poet.
For those interested in more conventional history, the city of St Albans and its Roman heritage represents a significant starting point in the southern part of the county.
1. St Albans
Known as Verulamium to the Romans, St Albans was the second city in Britain after London approximately 2,000 years ago.
Currently, this market town features numerous ancient sites and artifacts.
Visit Verulamium Park, where the remains of a spa were excavated in the 1930s, revealing stunning mosaics and a hypocaust.
Adjacent to the park is the Verulamium Museum, showcasing more mosaics alongside display cases filled with coins, ceramics, and even a soldier’s helmet and mask uncovered in the theatre, which represents the museum’s exterior.
Additionally, admire the 15th-century clock tower, a symbol of St Albans, notable in England for being a belfry unattached to any church.
2. Tring
Embarking on a journey through the Chilterns leads to the charming market town of Tring, adorned with exquisite 19th-century architecture and the Natural History Museum.
Lionel Walter Rothschild, an aficionado of zoology, was instrumental in establishing this museum, famously riding through the town in a carriage drawn by zebra-horse hybrids.
The museum’s delightful Victorian hall houses an intriguing collection of mounted taxidermy specimens, including extinct species such as thylacines and quaggas.
The magnificent Ivinghoe Beacon hill, situated a few miles from Tring, marks the endpoint of the Ridgeway National Trail, which traces the Celtic Icknield Way from Avebury in Wiltshire through to the North Wessex Downs and the Chilterns.
3. Hatfield
For those interested in Elizabeth I, Hatfield House serves as a treasure trove containing various items linked to the queen.
Despite modifications over the subsequent century, Hatfield House was where Elizabeth spent considerable time during her childhood and favored as an adult residence.
Items on display include gloves and silk stockings belonging to her, as well as the original Rainbow Portrait from the early 17th century.
The defunct de Havilland aircraft manufacturer, notable in British history, also has ties to Hatfield, as it operated here for a significant period.
A short drive away lies the De Havilland Museum at London Colney, featuring some of the earliest jet aircraft ever manufactured.
4. Welwyn Garden City
The city planner Sir Ebenezer Howard conceptualized his utopian vision of a Garden City in the early 20th century, envisioning a town with excellent transportation links to London while preserving the tranquility and greenery of the countryside.
Nearly a century after Welwyn Garden City’s establishment, it remains a highly livable location.
For those interested in town planning and urban design, exploring the area can be enjoyable, or you may prefer to unwind by the water at Stanborough Park.
5. Hitchin
Situated in the northern part of Hertfordshire, Hitchin is a charming town best explored on foot.
The picturesque cobblestone streets surrounding Market Place are bordered by delightful old residences and St Mary’s Church.
This church exemplifies a Wool Church, constructed larger than what would typically be needed for a modest medieval town, financed by prosperous wool merchants.
St Mary’s was established atop a 7th-century basilica from the earliest days of Christianity in England.
Visiting in July and August offers the added bonus of vibrant lavender fields just outside the town.
Hitchin Lavender, a local farm, permits visitors to pick their own lavender for a nominal fee and sells a variety of scented soaps and candles in its shop.
6. Letchworth
As the world’s first garden city, no building observed in the center of Letchworth predates the 20th century.
Much of the architecture may appear historical, inspired by the Arts and Crafts Movement.
Similar to Welwyn, Letchworth is an Ebenezer Howard-designed, pre-planned town abounding with green spaces and designed with industrial areas separated from residential neighborhoods.
A prime example of Arts and Crafts style can be witnessed at the Spirella Building, a landmark former factory for a corset manufacturer, which, true to the spirit of the town, provided amenities such as a library, gymnasium, baths, and even a cycle repair center for its workers.
7. Hertford
Hertfordshire’s county town, although modest in size, is rich in history and offers several subtle attractions to explore while strolling through its historic streets.
The Grade I-listed Shire Hall, constructed in 1789, serves as a magistrates’ court designed by renowned architect Robert Adam.
The splendid gothic structure of Hertford Castle replaced a Norman fortress in the 15th century and was a childhood abode for Queen Elizabeth I during the 16th century.
Visitors can delve into the narratives behind these buildings at Hertford Museum, which is situated in a 17th-century house, offering various exhibits from samurai armor to fossils on the second floor.
8. Berkhamsted
The history of Berkhamsted dates back to the Norman Conquest of England in 1066, with William the Conqueror’s half-brother Robert of Mortain likely responsible for constructing Berkhamsted Castle, where he resided in the 11th century.
Today, the castle presents itself as an atmospheric ruin, showcasing intact earthworks and substantial segments of the curtain walls.
On sunny days, the verdant towpath of the Grand Junction Canal provides an excellent setting for a leisurely stroll along the water.
9. Watford
In terms of aesthetics, Watford may not rival Hertfordshire’s more rural towns and villages.
Nevertheless, it is a clean and affluent town with a variety of activities to engage in.
The tranquil Cassiobury Park, formerly part of a country estate, now serves as a sizable nature reserve, conveniently located near the town center.
Nearby, two country houses await visitation, one of which, Bhaktivedanta Manor, is a half-timbered Tudor structure transformed into a Gaudiya Vaishnavism temple.
More traditionally, Cheslyn House and Gardens provide a peaceful retreat, featuring gardens bursting with color during the spring months.
Watford is also home to a Premier League football club, nicknamed the Hornets, which plays home games at Vicarage Road from August through May.
10. Stevenage
Another point of interest for the urban planning historians is Stevenage, recognized as England’s first “New Town,” established within a few years following the Second World War.
The population surged from just a few thousand at the start of the 1900s to over 80,000 today.
The historic town center remains well-preserved, featuring pubs and half-timbered houses along its typical countryside high street, along with the Church of St Nicholas, dating back to the 12th century.
Music historians will know of Knebworth House, a notable venue where renowned bands like Pink Floyd, the Rolling Stones, and Led Zeppelin performed before vast audiences.
The gothic-revival manor and grounds are open to the public, including a dinosaur park for children within the estate’s woodland.
11. Bishop’s Stortford
Conveniently located near Stansted Airport without being excessively close, Bishop’s Stortford embodies a quintessential country market town dominated by a neoclassical Corn Exchange from the late 18th century.
Summer evenings on Friday and Saturday are splendid times to visit, as residents returning from London fill the pubs and restaurants.
Adjacent to the town center lies a park containing discernible earthworks from a Norman fortress.
Atop this mound stand the ruins of Waytemore Castle, dating back to the 1100s, which later became a prison but was demolished in the 1700s.
12. Royston
A man-made cave lies directly beneath the center of this town at the northern edge of Hertfordshire.
Although Royston Cave may not be widely recognized, it warrants a visit for a guided tour if you find yourself in the vicinity.
This eight-meter high chamber harbors eerie carvings on its walls, likely from the late medieval period.
The cave was sealed and rediscovered in 1742, and despite extensive study over the past 250 years, no definitive date has been assigned to these carvings.
The Icknield Way, which traverses Tring, continues on to Norfolk and passes right by Royston.
While visiting doesn’t require a lengthy journey, you may choose to explore the local chalk hills along paths forged by pre-Roman tribes for an hour or two.
13. Ware
One of the many appealing aspects of Ware is the River Lea.
The riverbanks are charmingly picturesque, accentuated by historic buildings lining the water’s edge.
These structures include former “maltings,” integral to the brewing process, where grains soaked in river water to produce malt.
Scenic old gazebos and quaint wharfs for moored boats complete the idyllic scenery.
A remarkable site in Ware is Scott’s Grotto, created by gardener John Scott. The structure is partially embedded in the hillside and contains six distinct chambers, each adorned with fossils and glass, dating back to the 18th century.
14. Much Hadham
Much Hadham is renowned for housing the 20th-century sculptor Henry Moore.
His former residence features the Henry Moore Foundation, providing a rare opportunity to view numerous works all in one location.
Although lacking shops, the village of Much Hadham is replete with impressive historical structures, partly due to its history as a waypoint between Cambridge and London.
Within this locality, four Grade I-listed buildings stand, including two stunning Georgian country houses.
After exploring the village, consider stopping by the Old Bull Inn for a drink or a meal.
15. Wheathampstead
For the quintessential pleasures of an English country town, Wheathampstead, situated along the River Lea, warrants a visit for a leisurely lunch and exploration.
The high street is lined with Georgian townhouses and older wattle and daub structures, while the lush banks of the Lea are particularly charming, complete with benches inviting visitors to pause and enjoy the scenery.
The attractions within and around Wheathampstead may be modest, but it is the ambiance and essence of the town that make it a worthwhile experience.
Nomansland Common, located just southwest of the town, historically served as a venue for forbidden sports such as bare-knuckle boxing, situated far from the authorities’ reach.
