Summary
A quaint sandstone town located in the Eden Valley of Cumbria, Appleby is centered around the historic Boroughgate, a street rich in heritage and monuments.
One prominent historical figure associated with this area is Lady Anne Clifford (1590-1676), the daughter of a maid of honour to Queen Elizabeth. She is credited with reconstructing Appleby following the English Civil War and for establishing St Anne’s Hospital, a series of almshouses situated on Boroughgate.
The picturesque Eden Valley is remarkably beautiful and significantly less crowded than the Lake District, which appeals to walkers seeking breathtaking landscapes and tranquil solitude.
Visitors can explore stunning waterfalls, charming old villages, and captivating natural wonders such as High Cup Nick, an impressive U-shaped valley.
1. Eden Valley
Nestled between the fells of the Lake District and the rugged moorland of the Pennines, serene Eden Valley is characterized by its lush farmland and charming sandstone villages.
The River Eden is one of the few rivers in the country that flows northward, and its course through the valley is accompanied by the renowned Settle-Carlisle Railway.
Many of the towns in Eden have Viking roots, and during the Medieval period, the valley experienced the tumult of the Border Wars between Scotland and England.
Historical remnants of this turbulent past are visible in the many pele towers and castles scattered throughout the valley, one of which still stands in Appleby.
2. Boroughgate
The most picturesque and historically significant street in Appleby runs parallel to the River Eden, gradually descending from the south to the solemn entrance of St Lawrence’s Church.
At either end of Boroughgate are the High Cross at the top of the hill and the Low Cross at the bottom.
The High Cross, dating back to the 17th century, features a sundial and the inscription, “Retain your loyalty, preserve your rights,” while the Low Cross by the church gates is an 18th-century replica of the High Cross.
Near the summit is St Anne’s Hospital and Chapel, established by Lady Anne Clifford in the mid-17th century.
There are various 18th and 19th-century edifices lining Boroughgate.
Notable structures include the Moot Hall, the Red House from 1717 located at No. 30, the historical 17th-century Black Bull Inn at No. 36, the Courtyard Gallery housed in a 17th-century building at No. 32, and No. 11 with its twin gables, one of Appleby’s oldest structures dating from the late 16th century.
3. Appleby Castle
The remarkable Appleby Castle includes a 12th-century keep and a more recent mansion enclosed within formidable curtain walls.
The keep, known as Caesar’s Tower, has withstood centuries of conflict in the region between England and Scotland, and later, the English Civil War in the 17th century.
Though the castle was partially destroyed following the war, it was rapidly restored by Lady Anne Clifford, who resided there from 1649 to 1676. Currently, while the castle operates as a hotel, tours are available during the summer months.
Visitors can explore the 15th-century Great Hall, which features a suit of armor once worn by George Clifford, the champion jouster for Queen Elizabeth I.
Wander the grounds to admire the Norman ramparts and the 12th-century portcullis door, and stroll through a dignified corridor of yew trees.
4. Pennine Way
Appleby is situated near a 268-mile long National Trail, which makes its way from Middleton-in-Teesdale to nearby Dufton.
The Pennine Way, which begins in Edale located in the Derbyshire Peak District, traverses through the Pennines to Kirk Yetholm, just within Scotland.
It is essential to note that the sections of the Pennine Way near Appleby should not be underestimated.
The segment from Dufton to Alston is recognized as the most challenging on the entire trail, leading trekkers into arduous moorland where some of England’s strongest winds and coldest temperatures have been recorded.
The trail originating from Middleton-in-Teesdale is also quite demanding, offering a sequence of natural attractions, including three waterfalls and the striking High Cup Nick, which will be described in greater detail subsequently.
5. High Cup Nick
The village of Dufton is less than ten minutes’ drive from Appleby and can serve as the starting point for an expedition into the North Pennines Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.
From Dufton, one can hike to the High Cup, a breathtaking U-shaped valley shaped by glaciation and bordered by the imposing dolerite cliffs of High Cup Scar.
High Cup is the most significant formation of its kind in Northern England, and after periods of rainfall, a waterfall can be observed at the upper end.
Details of a nine-mile circular walk from Dufton are available through the Pennine Way.
This path follows routes once used by miners, which may present challenges in adverse weather conditions.
6. Moot Hall
Located on an island in the center of Boroughgate, the Moot Hall displays the date 1596 on a plaque above its entrance.
This two-story structure, built of stuccoed stone, houses rows of shops and the Tourist Information Centre on its ground floor, complemented by significant 18th-century sash windows above.
On the south side, a quatrefoil plaque inscribed with 1179 commemorates Appleby’s first written charter, above which rests a charming bellcote on the gable.
The panelled council chamber remains intact within and can be visited by prior arrangement; on the north end, visitors are welcome at the Tourist Information Centre, an invaluable resource for exploring Appleby and the Eden Valley.
7. St Anne’s Hospital
At the upper end of Boroughgate lies a set of almshouses established for local widows by Lady Anne Clifford in the mid-17th century.
This complex is constructed around a snug cobblestone courtyard, complete with a central flowerbed and fountain.
The 17th-century brass plate bearing the Clifford coat of arms outlines that the almshouses were created in 1653 for “a Mother, a Reader, and twelve sisters.” St Anne’s Hospital continues to serve its original purpose, welcoming visitors to enjoy the tranquil courtyard and visit the small chapel during daytime hours.
Inside the chapel, one can find original 17th-century benches and a reading desk, supplemented by the Ten Commandments, Beatitudes, and Creed displayed on the wall.
Brochures detailing the history of the almshouses, Lady Anne Clifford, and Appleby in general are available inside.
8. St Lawrence’s Church
This Grade I listed parish church warrants a visit for its eclectic array of Medieval architecture representing various periods.
St Lawrence’s Church suffered considerable damage during the Anglo-Scottish Wars, necessitating the reconstruction of the nave and chancel in the 14th and 15th centuries.
Older elements are preserved, including the base of the tower dating from approximately 1150 and the 13th-century south porch, which showcases an arch adorned with Early English dogtooth mouldings.
Notably, under the tower arch, St Lawrence’s organ, built in 1661, incorporates parts tracing back to the 1500s.
Additionally, the northeast chapel houses exquisite 17th-century monuments dedicated to Lady Margaret Clifford, maid of honour to Elizabeth I, and her daughter Lady Anne Clifford, both of whom shaped the legacy of Appleby in the 1600s.
9. Courtyard Gallery
The 17th-century establishment located at No. 32 on Boroughgate is the Courtyard Gallery, an elegantly understated gift shop in a serene courtyard adorned with flora and climbing plants.
Visitors can browse locally crafted artwork, etchings, ceramics, glass, jewelry, handmade cards, and ceramics, with temporary exhibitions showcased periodically.
In March 2019, a collection of spring-themed prints was exhibited.
The inviting and relaxed atmosphere is complemented by the venue’s historical significance, and patrons can enjoy a cup of tea and a slice of homemade cake while exploring the selection.
10. Acorn Bank
The National Trust’s most extensive collection of medicinal and culinary herbs is found within this garden, encompassed by 17th-century walls.
Over 250 varieties flourish here, alongside vegetable patches, hot beds, and an orchard featuring numerous historic English apple cultivars.
Within the ancient oaks resides Acorn Bank’s watermill, referenced in documents dating back to the 14th century, though the current structure dates from the early 19th century.
Originally constructed for milling corn, the mill was later repurposed to operate the site’s gypsum mines before deteriorating post-1940s.
Restoration efforts began in 1995, and since 2011, it has resumed milling flour.
The mill operates on weekends during the summer, and its flour, alongside much of the garden’s produce, features prominently on the menu at the cozy tearoom.
11. Settle-Carlisle Line
The elegantly designed Appleby Railway Station, situated high above the town, commenced operations in 1876 as part of the illustrious Settle to Carlisle Line.
Currently managed by Network Rail as a Main Line, the Settle to Carlisle Line represents a monumental engineering accomplishment, constructed in the 1870s across some of England’s most challenging terrain, requiring the creation of 22 viaducts and 14 tunnels throughout its 72-mile journey.
Upon arrival at Appleby Station, one may observe that the platforms are notably lengthy, at 182 metres, designed to accommodate the former Anglo-Scottish express trains.
Travelers are encouraged to embark on a southbound train towards Settle, allowing time to absorb the idyllic vistas as they unfold.
As you pass Ribblehead, you will cross the namesake viaduct, an impressive structure measuring 400 metres in length and standing 30 metres high.
12. Rutter Force
A short drive into the Great Asby Scar National Nature Reserve leads to a picturesque waterfall located on Hoff Beck.
Rutter Force is encircled by mature woodlands, complemented by a watermill and ford in the vicinity.
In addition to the scenic enchantment of the falls, many visitors are pleasantly surprised by the local population of red squirrels, which are not often seen in many areas of England.
The mill is available as holiday accommodations while simultaneously providing electricity to the nearby village of Great Asby.
Rutter Force reaches its peak aesthetic appeal following substantial rainfall; however, exercise caution while crossing the ford, as the surface can be slippery.
13. Dufton Pike
If you are eager to further explore the North Pennines, you can ascend this 480-metre hill located near High Cup Nick.
Dufton Pike is hard to overlook as it rises dramatically over the Eden Valley from the north; likewise, the most accessible trail begins in Dufton.
A five-mile round trip over grassy inclines requires a brisk estimation of just over three hours.
From the upper lip of the valley, the panoramas are stunning; Dufton Pike is classified as a “Marilyn,” denoting its prominence of over 150 metres, and its relative isolation from the remainder of the northern Pennines amplifies the views.
Consistent with the trend in Eden, Dufton Pike remains relatively untraveled, so it is likely that you will encounter only a few fellow hikers during your ascent and descent.
14. Appleby Horse Fair
In early June, Appleby hosts a significant gathering for the UK’s Gypsies and Travellers to trade horses.
Over the span of four days, around 10,000 members from these communities arrive in caravans and traditional vardoes, which are elaborately decorated horse-drawn wagons.
The fair is held just outside the town, at the intersection of Long Marton Road and the Roman Road.
Among the participants are Welsh Romanies (Kale), Scottish Gypsy and Traveller groups, Irish Travellers, and British Romanichal.
For visitors, the allure lies in the vibrant vardoes, watching ponies and draft horses being bathed in the River Eden, and browsing the market on Jimmy Winter’s Field, where horse-related goods are predominantly sold.
15. Cycling
Situated along and nearby two long-distance routes, Appleby and the Eden Valley provide an excellent setting for cycling.
Many of the quiet country lanes are part of the National Cycle Network, allowing cyclists to stop at quaint villages with hospitable pubs and local stores.
Appleby serves as one of the southern starting points for the Pennine Cycleway, spanning 150 miles to Berwick-upon-Tweed, winding through the Eden Valley, the North Pennines, and the Northumberland National Park.
Additionally, the Sea-to-Sea Cycle Route (C2C) covers 140 miles, traversing from the North West to the North East coast and meandering through the Eden Valley, with stops in Penrith on the path to Alston in the North Pennines.
