Overview
A sophisticated city renowned for its elegance and cultural heritage, Aix has been home to some of France’s most esteemed thinkers and artists. The most prominent among them is Paul Cézanne, who captured the limestone peak of Montagne Sainte-Victoire, situated to the east of the city. Provence is famed for its high summer temperatures, yet the avenues of Aix remain cool thanks to the canopies of its charming honey-hued buildings and plane trees, alongside the refreshing mist from its numerous fountains.
Explore the baroque and rococo 17th and 18th-century hôtels in the Quartier Mazarin, and take a leisurely stroll along Cours Mirabeau, the boulevard where prominent figures like Camus and Hemingway once dined during their time in the city.
Let us delve into the notable attractions in Aix-en-Provence:
1. Aix Cathedral – triptych
Upon arriving at this edifice on Rue Gaston de Saporta, one immediately notices how Aix Cathedral harmoniously fuses various architectural styles and epochs.
To the left, the gothic portal displays exquisite sculpture work featuring the Virgin and Child in the center.
Adjacent to this, the romanesque entrance dates back to the 1100s and connects to a much older Roman wall, believed to have belonged to a temple dedicated to Apollo.
The interior holds a masterpiece that must be seen: the 15th-century Burning Bush triptych by Avignon artist Nicolas Froment.
The central panel depicts the Virgin and Child, with Moses in the foreground, while the sides feature René of Anjou and Queen Jeanne, the commissioner’s portrait.
2. Old Aix
Embrace the opportunity to explore every corner of Aix’s historic center, situated north of Cours Mirabeau, which showcases magnificent architecture, lively markets, historical nuances, and an ever-present feeling of walking in the footsteps of renowned artists and writers.
This vibrant experience can be enriched by utilizing the city’s iconic fountains as a guide during your exploration.
Many of these fountains are Roman springs that have supplied water to Aix for millennia, though their designs have evolved over time.
The area boasts cafés, boutiques, traditional French amenities, and art galleries, maintaining a bustling atmosphere that lingers well into the night during summer months.
Visit Rue Jacques de la Roque to see the remnants of the old ramparts, and enjoy a coffee at Place de l’Hôtel de Ville while admiring the Old Belfry and its ancient Roman stonework at the base.
3. Cours Mirabeau
A fitting conclusion to your exploration of the oldest parts of Aix can be found at Cours Mirabeau, which leads to the more contemporary, yet equally splendid, streets of Mazarin.
This street features a broad promenade adorned with rows of lush plane trees and is flanked by mansions and dining establishments frequented by cultural icons such as Camus, Cézanne, and Zola.
You may choose to indulge in a delightful dinner or simply enjoy a morning croissant and coffee as the city awakens.
At the western end lies La Rotonde, possibly the most stunning fountain in Aix, while the unique La Fontaine d’Eau Chaude, nourished by a thermal spring and draped in moss, produces a gentle mist during colder days.
4. Atelier Cézanne
Set amidst olive groves and fig orchards on Lauves Hill, Paul Cézanne’s studio, where he spent the final four years of his life, is a must-see.
Located a 15-minute walk from the city center, it showcases how he would commute daily from his home on Rue Boulegon to this studio, which was specifically designed according to his specifications.
Untouched since his passing over a century ago, the studio offers visitors a chance to feel his presence while surrounded by artifacts that appear in his artwork.
Cézanne’s smock hangs in the studio, still stained with paint, alongside objects that resonate with his artistic legacy.
5. Montagne Sainte-Victoire
The Cézanne motif continues at this iconic limestone ridge, situated 20 kilometers east of Aix and visible from his studio.
This site served as a source of inspiration for Cézanne, who depicted it numerous times from various perspectives and under different lighting conditions.
Rising to over 1,000 meters, the mountain is dotted with small religious sites that may surprise visitors, such as the Priory of Sainte-Victoire and the Saint-Ser Hermitage, which is carved from a cave.
Should you wish to reach the summit where a cross stands, commence at Barrage du Bimont; the round trip will require about two hours.
In the heat of summer, you may equally enjoy simply relaxing by Lac de Bimont and appreciating the tranquility of the mountain without the arduous ascent!
6. Musée Granet
Housed within the former priory buildings of Église Saint-Jean-de-Malte, Musée Granet boasts a collection of nearly 12,000 paintings, sculptures, and historical artifacts.
A prominent highlight is the dedicated room for Cézanne, featuring nine of his oil paintings.
Recently, the museum benefited from a significant donation from the Planque Foundation, established by the heirs of art collector Jean Planque.
This has enriched Musée Granet with works by Picasso and Kandinsky, complementing its esteemed collection of baroque paintings from the 17th-century French school, and notable pieces by Rembrandt, Rubens, and Jacob Jordaens.
7. Hôtels Particuliers – Mazarine
When Michele Mazzarino was appointed Archbishop of Aix in 1645, he had ambitious plans for the city, commissioning the development of a new district below Cours Mirabeau over subsequent years.
This became a district for the affluent gentry and merchants, characterized by splendid hôtels.
Many of these distinguished structures are located on the southern side of Cours Mirabeau, providing an ideal starting point for your tour, with additional sites located on Rue Mazarine, Rue Goyrand, Rue Carinale, Rue Roux-Alphéran, Rue du Quatre-Septembre, and Rue d’Italie.
Capture a photograph at Place des Quatre-Dauphins, which features a 1667 fountain adorned with four sculpted dolphins. It is widely regarded as the city’s most beautiful fountain, a commendation worth noting for Aix.
8. Hôtel de Caumont
Located on Rue Joseph-Cabassol, Hôtel de Caumont is one of the few hôtels accessible to the public and is among the most splendid.
This French “monument historique” was constructed between 1745 and 1742 for the Marquess of Cabanes.
The interior is remarkably preserved, showcasing its 18th-century elegance with rococo gilding and intricately designed furnishings.
One of the many exquisite rooms is the Salon de Musique, featuring a Louis XV-style harpsichord from the mid-1700s, a painted harp, and armchairs adorned with floral designs.
The mansion hosts significant temporary art exhibitions, highlighting works such as Canaletto in 2015 and Turner in 2016.
9. Église Saint-Jean-de-Malte
Constructed in a brief period from 1272 to 1277, this church stands as the first gothic structure in Provence.
Situated outside the city along the road to Italy, its design draws inspiration from the hospital of St. John established during the Crusades.
This explains its somewhat militaristic architecture, featuring loopholes flanking the entrance and a limited number of large openings in the facade, apart from the stunning rose window.
Inside, visitors can appreciate a collection of remarkable artworks, including pieces by esteemed artists such as Louis Finson and Michel Serre.
10. Markets
You will certainly sense that you are in Provence once you catch the delightful aroma of lavender while visiting an open-air market in Aix.
These markets should be your primary destination for fresh produce and Provençal delicacies.
Food markets are held at Place des Prêcheurs and Place de la Madeleine on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, while Place Richelme hosts a market every day.
If you reside in a self-catered apartment, prioritize shopping here; there is also a flower market on alternating days at Place de la Mairie and Place des Prêcheurs, along with stalls offering clothing and textiles on Cours Mirabeau every Tuesday and Thursday.
11. Wine Tourism Château La Coste
Aix-en-Provence lies within the second-largest wine appellation in Provence, cultivating Mourvèdre, Grenache, and Cinsaut grapes, primarily producing red wines, with a notable proportion of rosés celebrated during the summer.
The numerous vineyards and cellars surrounding Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence AOC tempt many visitors to trust professional tour companies with their exploration.
For a comprehensive experience, full-day tours are available.
For those with time constraints, Château La Coste, located just north of the city, offers tours that explain the grape varieties utilized in their wines, along with insights into the fermentation and aging processes.
The estate also features a contemporary sculpture park showcasing works by renowned artists like Tracey Emin and Andy Goldsworthy, among others.
12. Camp des Milles
Located southwest of the city, a memorial stands that serves as a poignant reminder following the cultural richness and beauty of Aix.
Camp des Milles is the only Second World War internment and deportation camp in France that is preserved and open to the public.
Between 1939 and 1942, it processed thousands of prisoners from various European countries, primarily Germans and Austrians who had fled to southern France after the Nazi takeover.
Numerous notable artists and writers, including Max Ernst and Nobel Prize laureate Otto Fritz Meyerhof, were interned here.
Video installations are present at the camp, providing a place for reflection before continuing to more indulgent experiences.
13. Musée du Calisson
Calissons are delightful gifts to bring back from Aix; these summer treats, crafted from candied fruit and almond paste, are topped with a layer of icing.
Additionally, they are often presented in charming, vintage-style packaging.
To explore the production process of this beloved delicacy, visit the sleek and eco-friendly factory at Confiserie du Roy René, set within two hectares of almond orchards.
On a guided tour, you will have the opportunity to walk on a mezzanine level above the factory floor and delve into the history, technique, and ingredients through interactive exhibits and displays of historical machinery.
14. Aix-en-Provence Opera Festival
It is fitting that Aix hosts one of France’s most prominent cultural festivals, attracting the most celebrated opera performers from across the globe.
Running throughout July, the festival features three main venues: the rococo Théâtre du Jeu de Paume, dating back to the mid-18th century; the modern Grand Théâtre de Provence; and the open-air courtyard of the Archbishop’s Palace, known as the Théâtre de l’Archevêché.
Since its inception in 1948, the festival has built a reputation for its diverse programming, including contemporary operas by Benjamin Britten and Prokofiev alongside classics by Handel, Wagner, Mozart, and Verdi, while also revitalizing forgotten baroque operas.
15. Mini Tram
If time is limited, or if you have young children who may not be inclined to walk around Aix’s streets for hours, the Mini Tram offers a convenient way to summarize all the major attractions.
This stylish 57-seater road train incorporates impressive high-tech elements, including multi-lingual commentary via headphones.
Another appealing feature is the transparent roof, allowing passengers to gaze up without straining their necks to appreciate the taller buildings.
The tour lasts 45 minutes and departs from Brasserie Le Festival on Cours Mirabeau, imparting insights about the city’s history that might otherwise go unnoticed.
