Summary
The capital of Brittany’s Côtes-d’Armor department is a modest town that does not heavily focus on tourism. Nevertheless, there are numerous attractions that are sure to captivate visitors in Saint-Brieuc.
The historical center features esteemed granite structures and half-timbered residences, while the Légué Port on the Gouët River Estuary echoes a rich maritime history spanning centuries. Visitors can admire a cathedral resembling a fortress, a cemetery with notable interments, an award-winning zoo, and a vibrant calendar of events and fairs. Furthermore, awe-inspiring natural monuments, quaint fishing settlements, and beach resorts are all conveniently accessible by car.
Let us explore the best activities to experience in Saint-Brieuc:
1. Saint-Brieuc Cathedral
Superficially, to characterize the cathedral as “decorative” would be inaccurate; it boasts two fortress-like granite towers with no openings except for arrow loops.
Originally serving as the bishop’s stronghold in the 13th century, its imposing design certainly reflects its intention to endure sieges, as the town lacks ramparts.
Inside, however, visitors will find a more delicate atmosphere, particularly in the southern wing of the transept.
This area showcases an impressive 16th-century stained glass window depicting biblical scenes such as manna in the desert and the Last Supper.
2. Old Saint-Brieuc
The most picturesque sections of the town are situated just east and north of the cathedral, characterized by numerous corbelled wooden structures.
Place du Martray serves as a magnificent square adorned with stone and timber-framed buildings, all of which are adjacent to Saint-Brieuc’s covered market.
On Place au Lin resides Maison Ribeault, the oldest half-timbered structure in the city, dating back to the 1400s.
Its facade and door exhibit intricate carvings of botanical motifs, masks, and scallop shells.
Allocate at least a couple of hours to explore Old Saint-Brieuc, concluding your visit at Place du Chai with a café au lait or chocolat chaud.
3. Musée d’Art et d’Histoire
For an engaging experience of the culture and history of Côtes-d’Armor, visitors can spend an hour exploring this museum.
This attraction was established following the seizures during the Revolution, although most collections were assembled later in the 1800s.
Guests will navigate through diverse subjects, including underwater archaeology, maritime history, furniture design, weaving traditions, and traditional Breton attire.
Exhibits delve into daring fishing expeditions to Iceland and Newfoundland, as well as local craftsmanship, such as shoemaking and pottery.
The art galleries feature prominent Breton painters and photographers, including Mathurin Méheut and portraitist Lucien Bailly.
4. Cimetière Saint-Michel
While a cemetery may not be the first choice for an uplifting experience, the oldest cemetery in the city is noteworthy for its historical connections, beautiful sculptures, and captivating stories.
Founded in 1839, it houses numerous historic graves, and visitors can refer to Saint-Brieuc’s tourist office for a detailed list that includes a pioneering aviator, a Resistance member, and the father of the inventor of the stethoscope.
Another notable individual interred here is Lucien Camus, father of the literary luminary Albert.
Additionally, Louis Guilloux, an influential 20th-century author known for his social realism, is also honored here.
5. Tour de Cesson
On the right bank of the Gouët Estuary, a forested rock rises to 70 meters above the water.
During medieval times, this location was strategically significant for defending the sea entrance to Saint-Brieuc against piracy and invasions.
The Duke of Brittany Jean IV constructed a castle here in 1395, which largely succumbed to devastation, leaving only the keep after the Wars of Religion.
The remaining structure is a single tower that now crowns the hill, presenting a picturesque state of decay.
The GR 34 walking path leads to this site, and if abandoned locations pique your interest, you will appreciate the 19th-century manor house that is left in disrepair just a short distance from the tower.
6. Port du Légué
Below the tower lies Saint-Brieuc’s port, which runs along the banks of the Gouët as it flows into the English Channel.
Although this is the fifth-largest port in Brittany, it retains a charming, relaxed atmosphere, making the quayside paths and lush woodlands behind it highly walkable.
Visitors can find stone houses lining the waterfront, alongside restaurants, bars, and cafes where they can relax outdoors while observing yachts navigating the estuary.
For a full day experience, there are eight kilometers of waterfront paths leading to Plage de Valais.
This is the town’s only beach, a cove facing the Baie de Saint-Brieuc, recognized as the largest natural reserve in Brittany.
7. Les Chaos du Gouët
For a memorable excursion, venture inland to the banks of the Gouët adjacent to the village of Plaintel.
Approximately 15 minutes from Saint-Brieuc lies a 10.5-kilometer trail meandering along the riverbanks, characterized by an unusual landscape where the Gouët has scattered numerous massive granite boulders.
The entirety of the walk occurs within a lush, mossy deciduous forest, and many visitors may find it irresistible to climb some of these rocks or utilize them as stepping stones to cross the shallow, babbling river.
8. Zooparc de Trégomeur
A delightful outing for children awaits at this zoo, which adopts an Asian theme and presents animals in enclosures that closely mimic their natural ecosystems.
Situated in a verdant valley with a microclimate conducive to tropical vegetation, the Côtes-d’Armor General Council has significantly invested in modernizing the facility over the past decade.
Noteworthy species include Vietnamese deer, a Sumatran tiger, sun bears, and a variety of gibbons such as the Siamang.
9. Villa Rohannec’h
A pleasant route from the center of Saint-Brieuc to Port du Légué leads through the grounds of this remarkable mansion, which is owned by the town.
Villa Rohannec’h served as the residence for local ship-owner Viscount Le Gualès de Mézaubran, constructed in the early 20th century.
The estate encompasses seven hectares of park, featuring an orchard and maritime pines, which is open daily during the summer months.
Recently renovated, the mansion has transformed into a local cultural venue, hosting themed exhibitions and performances during summer, in addition to housing a lively café.
10. Erquy
An enchanting seaside resort, Erquy is esteemed for its pink sandstone cottages beside a large sheltered bay.
One of the largest fishing fleets in the Côtes-d’Armor operates from Erquy, with scallop trawls occurring in the Bay of Saint-Brieuc from October to April.
The peak season culminates with the Fête de la Coquille Saint-Jacques (Scallop Festival) held on a weekend in mid-April.
While the beach is a primary attraction, it is highly recommended to hike the Cap d’Erquy, recognized as one of the “Grands Sites de France.” This area features 60-meter high pink sandstone cliffs crowned with a heather moor.
11. Cap Fréhel
Having ventured this far, one can continue along the coast to another one of France’s “Grands Sites.” This rugged and windy peninsula features lighthouses, towering cliffs, an ancient fort, and is a must-visit for anyone journeying to Saint-Brieuc.
A scenic hike through colorful heather moorland leads to two lighthouses at the cape’s tip, with the older structure dating back to 1685 and designed by an associate of the renowned Vauban.
Ascend the 145 steps for a breathtaking view that encompasses the Channel Islands and an extensive stretch of coastline.
Moreover, Fort la Latte, constructed and modified between 1300 and 1600 and soaring 60 meters above the sea, welcomes visitors with its drawbridge.
12. Regional Food
The remarkable acclaim surrounding the scallops from the Bay of Saint-Brieuc is well-deserved; they are extraordinary.
It is worth braving the winter winds to relish them fresh from the sea, prepared in various ways including fried, marinated, or stewed, and pairing beautifully with crisp white wine.
Fishing regulations are strict, with vessels permitted to fish for only 45 minutes a day, two days a week during the season.
Additionally, being in Brittany necessitates indulging in sweet crêpes or savory galettes, typically featuring ingredients such as ham, egg, and melted cheese.
13. Pléneuf-Val-André
Although Saint-Brieuc offers a variety of attractions, it does not serve as a beach destination.
Fortunately, it is mere minutes by car to reach spectacular sandy beaches when the summer temperatures rise.
Pléneuf-Val-André lies 20 kilometers to the east, however, traveling much further than that would be required to find a better beach. This locale features over 2.5 kilometers of sandy shore, and when the tide recedes, a vast expanse of beach appears to stretch endlessly towards the horizon.
It is no surprise that this bay was developed during the 19th century, adorned with cultivated villas that remain to this day.
14. Binic
Located even closer in the opposite direction is the charming resort town of Binic.
When tourism began to flourish here in the 20th century, Binic already possessed all the attributes necessary for success; it features a quaint harbor that historically served as a departure point for fishermen heading to Newfoundland but has since transformed into a sailing resort. On the opposite side of the harbor wall lies an expanse of sandy beach.
This picturesque area comprises two breathtaking bays positioned a short distance from old streets adorned with granite houses by the harbor.
Stop by a seafood restaurant for lunch, then take a leisurely stroll along the Sentier des Douaniers, the historic smuggler’s path that traverses the waterfront through pine forests, over granite outcrops, and alongside additional stunning beaches.
15. Summer Concerts
On Thursday and Friday evenings, a series of live performances known as Les Nocturnes is held on a stage at the covered market.
These concerts are organized by the town and are completely free of charge.
Designed for all, the performances span a diverse range of musical styles, from traditional Breton folk to world music, encompassing jazz, rock, blues, dance music, and more.
Most of the artists featured at Les Nocturnes are emerging talents at the onset of their careers, while opening acts typically hail from the Côtes-d’Armor region.
