Summary
- Axe Majeur
- Musée Tavet-Delacour
- Musée Camille Pissarro
- Pontoise Cathedral
- Modern Architecture
- Cergy Village
- Pontoise Upper Town
- Église Saint-Christophe
- Île de Loisirs
- Pontoise et ses Souterrains
- Auvers-sur-Oise
- Villa Savoye
- Château de Maisons-Laffitte
- Claude Monet’s House and Gardens
- Day out in Paris
In the northwestern suburbs of Paris, Cergy is part of a newly developed town intended to address a housing crisis following the war. Cergy was merged with its neighboring commune, creating the Cergy-Pontoise conurbation, whose population surged from only a few thousand in the 1950s to approximately 200,000 today.
Given the town’s relative youth, it boasts an array of modern architecture, much of which has retained its contemporary appeal, epitomized by Dani Karavan’s remarkable Axe Majeur monument. Moreover, Cergy served as an inspirational site for Pissarro and other Impressionist painters who depicted the River Oise in the 19th century, with remnants of the historic centers of Cergy and Pontoise woven into the fabric of the conurbation.
Let’s delve into the best attractions in Cergy:
1. Axe Majeur
A monumental endeavor spanning three decades, the Axe Majeur is an expansive contemporary sculpture crafted by Dani Karavan.
This installation consists of 12 “stations” arranged in a straight line over more than three kilometers, serving as the modern symbol for Cergy-Pontoise.
Each station represents a unique point of interest, ranging from the riverbanks that inspired the Impressionists to the Esplanade de Paris, which provides enchanting views of Paris and La Défense to the southeast.
Initiated in 1980 and completed progressively over subsequent decades, the final refinements were made as recently as 2010. The starting point is the Tour Belvédère, which features a 36-meter tower equipped with a laser beam tracing the route of the monument.
2. Musée Tavet-Delacour
This museum of art and history is located in a distinguished setting.
Housed in the former residence of Pontoise’s Grand Vicar, this venue was commissioned by the Archbishop of Rouen in the late 15th century.
The art collection features 20th-century works, including pieces by Matisse, Legros, Signovert, and Jean Arp, alongside contributions from Otto Freundlich, a pioneer of abstract art who faced persecution during the Nazis’ infamous “degenerate art” exhibition.
The historical displays include intriguing artifacts, some of which were seized from the Royal Saint-Denis Basilica during the Revolution, including a piece of Louis IX’s skull, a lock of Philip II’s hair, and teeth belonging to Henry III and IV, as well as the mummified leg of Catherine de’ Medici.
3. Musée Camille Pissarro
As noted earlier, numerous artists set up their easels along the Oise in both Cergy and Pontoise.
However, few were as deeply enamored with this location as the Impressionist Camille Pissarro, who resided in Pontoise for 17 years, frequently capturing the water in his artwork.
The museum features one painting by Pissarro, *Barges à La Roche-Guyon*, alongside numerous drawings and prints created by the artist.
Additionally, there are works by Pissarro’s three sons and renowned post-Impressionists such as Cézanne and Signac.
4. Pontoise Cathedral
Located in the heart of old Pontoise, this historic church was granted cathedral status in the 1960s.
Initially completed in the 12th century, it underwent expansions in the 1400s and 1500s, resulting in a blend of architectural styles that range from Romanesque to Flamboyant Gothic and Renaissance.
The oldest sections are the nave and apse, dating back to the 1100s, while the visually striking tower and main portal are of a more recent construction from the 15th century.
Venture into the chapels within the apse to observe the Romanesque column capitals, with an array of well-preserved wooden liturgical furniture on display.
Highlights include the choir screen, pulpit, choir stalls, and the enclosure surrounding the baptismal font, all crafted in the 17th century.
5. Modern Architecture
While Pissarro and Cézanne were drawn to the exquisite light along the Oise River in the late 1800s, the newly developed town of Cergy-Pontoise inspired contemporary filmmakers such as Éric Rohmer and Henri Verneuil in the 20th century.
Both directors utilized the town’s modern architectural features as cinematic backdrops.
Rohmer’s *Boyfriends and Girlfriends* from 1987 is particularly notable, where the chic, modern environment complements the narrative.
Explore the town to appreciate the clean lines and functionalist approach of the architecture, and to capture images of unique sights, including the 10-meter clock (the largest clock in Europe) at Gare de Cergy and the inverted pyramid structure of the Prefecture building.
6. Cergy Village
Situated along the Oise, the historical nucleus of Cergy predates the town’s rapid growth in the 1960s.
Surrounding the Church of Saint-Christophe are several historic streets that contrast sharply with the modernity characteristic of Cergy-Pontoise.
Notable structures include the old Neo-Renaissance town hall and an array of charming 19th-century farmhouses.
Among other historical remnants are Cergy’s ancient “lavoirs,” communal washhouses from the 19th century (Lavoir de la Guépière and Lavoir de la Fontaine Rousselette), where local residents would gather to do their laundry.
7. Pontoise Upper Town
Prior to the establishment of the new town, Pontoise, perched above the River, was a historic settlement with a population of approximately 10,000 and once served as the capital of the County of Vexin.
Much like the center of Cergy, the historic quarter remains intact, boasting 12 French “monuments historiques.” Among these is the Carmelite Convent, established in 1605, which holds the title of the oldest operational convent in France.
Despite its continuous use, the church welcomes visitors, featuring a small shop that offers artisan gifts and postcards produced at the monastery.
Additionally, remnants of the town’s ramparts can be found along Rue de la Coutellerie and Boulevard Jean-Jaurès, while the Moulin des Pâtis, an 18th-century mill once immortalized by Cézanne, now operates as a cultural center.
8. Église Saint-Christophe
Visiting this church in the historic sector of Cergy promises an unusual yet memorable experience: one passes through a remarkable Renaissance portico leading to a section of the building that was dismantled in the early 1900s, leaving it as a solitary archway.
This archway opens into a courtyard where visitors can admire the tower, which dates back to the 12th century at the lower levels, while the upper sections were reconstructed during the 16th century.
Within, numerous historical elements can be discovered: observe the portal’s bas-reliefs depicting the life of St. Christopher and the arrival of Jesus in the Garden of Gethsemane, as well as six capitals from the 1130s illustrating biblical narratives.
9. Île de Loisirs
Nestled within a meander of the Oise lies a sprawling 250-hectare destination dedicated to watersports and diverse outdoor recreational activities.
The six man-made pools were established in the 1960s during the construction of the new town.
To this day, it functions as an excellent venue for the residents of Cergy-Pontoise to engage in physical activities or unwind during the summer months, featuring a beach, an artificial white-water course, facilities for cable skiing, and a wave pool.
Additionally, the recreational offerings extend beyond aquatic activities, encompassing climbing walls, treetop adventure courses, archery facilities, and mountain biking trails.
10. Pontoise et ses Souterrains
Beneath Pontoise lies a hidden underground world, which requires prior arrangement for exploration.
Guided tours occur on Sundays and on selected weekdays throughout the year, necessitating advance planning.
These tours, organized by the tourist office, lead participants through tunnels that once served as ancient quarries and feature staircases carved from the rock, cellars, wells, and subterranean rooms adorned with impressive vaults, alongside military installations dating from the 1100s to the 1600s.
Throughout the journey, the tour guide provides insights into the historical significance of each chamber traversed.
11. Auvers-sur-Oise
This quaint town a short distance up the Oise is tangentially linked to another Impressionist virtuoso, Vincent van Gogh.
Van Gogh was among numerous artists, including Daubigny, Camille Corot, Pissarro, and Cézanne, who spent time in the town.
It is also the location of his passing, with the Auberge Ravoux housing the room where he took his final breath, as well as his grave.
For those interested in van Gogh’s concluding weeks in the town, visiting the residence of Paul Gachet is a must.
Dr. Gachet befriended the artists in Auvers and provided care for van Gogh during his last days.
He is immortalized in van Gogh’s iconic *Portrait of Dr. Gachet*, while his home also makes an appearance in a painting by Cézanne.
12. Villa Savoye
This UNESCO World Heritage Site is located approximately 20 minutes from Cergy-Pontoise in Poissy by the Seine.
For architecture enthusiasts or those with an appreciation for 20th-century design, this building is an essential destination.
Designed by Le Corbusier and his cousin Pierre Jeanneret, Villa Savoye is a benchmark for the International style, significantly influencing modern design.
Constructed as a summer residence for the Savoye family, Le Corbusier was granted complete creative freedom to implement his modernist architectural principles.
These principles encompass long horizontal windows to maximize natural light and a roof designed for accessibility, featuring a garden and solarium.
13. Château de Maisons-Laffitte
Situated around 20 minutes from Cergy-Pontoise is a remarkable landmark.
The Château de Maisons-Laffitte stands as the most complete surviving structure designed by the illustrious 17th-century architect, François Mansart.
Furthermore, it serves as one of the earliest instances of Baroque architecture in France.
Upon its completion in 1651, individuals traveled from considerable distances to admire this architectural marvel.
The lavish interiors have either remained intact or have been thoughtfully restored, featuring a breathtaking central staircase that spirals upward along the four walls, as well as the apartment of René de Longueuil, the early financial administrator during Louis XIV’s reign.
14. Claude Monet’s House and Gardens
A scenic half-hour drive leads to Giverny, where Claude Monet’s residence has been preserved as if the artist just stepped out for a stroll.
Monet resided here from 1883 until his passing in 1926; art enthusiasts should not miss this pilgrimage.
Visitors can explore his stunning gardens, which feature the renowned lily pond and the wisteria-covered bridge.
Additionally, the house showcases Monet’s belongings, with interiors vibrantly adorned in hues from the artist’s own palette.
15. Day out in Paris
If you manage to circumvent the traffic, the nation’s capital is situated less than 40 minutes from Cergy-Pontoise.
There’s no need to elaborate on the fact that Paris is unparalleled in terms of culture, history, shopping, dining, and nightlife, featuring landmarks known worldwide.
Whether you have secured a reservation at a Michelin-starred restaurant or a seat at the Palais Garnier months in advance, or simply wish to visit the Eiffel Tower, Arc de Triomphe, and Notre-Dame on a brief exploration, your options are virtually limitless.
You might also consider tracing the footsteps of Pissarro, Monet, and van Gogh at the Musée de l’Orangerie, Musée d’Orsay, and Musée Marmottan.