Summary
Located just a few kilometers upriver from Frankfurt, on the left bank of the Main, lies the city of Offenbach. Historically, Offenbach was recognized for its leather-making and typography industries, and today, there are prominent museums dedicated to both crafts.
While the city endured significant damage during World War II, its Renaissance and Baroque palaces, which once served as residences for the nobility of Hesse, have largely survived and warrant a visit. In recent decades, the riverside along the Main has undergone revitalization, and the Westend area is characterized by affluent turn-of-the-century villas built for the bourgeois class. Every Tuesday, Friday, and Saturday, residents from Frankfurt travel to Offenbach for the dynamic outdoor market.
Let us delve into the top attractions in Offenbach:
1. Isenburger Schloss
Adjacent to the Main is a splendid Renaissance palace dating back to the mid-16th century.
In the early 1630s, Swedish King Gustav II Adolf resided here during the Thirty Years’ War to engage in negotiations with Frankfurt.
Isenburger Schloss served as the residence of the Counts of Isenburg-Offenbach, who were later recognized as the Princes of Isenburg und Büdingen until the 19th century.
The existing palace represents one segment of what was intended to be a four-wing structure, and while standing on Schlossplatz on the southern side, one can easily spend a few moments admiring the arcade, loggia, and the intricate sculptures seen in the reliefs, friezes, pilasters, and caryatids.
Currently, the palace is owned by the Offenbach University of Art and Design, housing the faculties of photography and graphic design.
2. Schloss Rumpenheim
Another elegant palace, Schloss Rumpenheim, is located near the river to the north of Offenbach.
This structure, built in 1736, served as a residence for the Landgraves and Princes of Hesse-Kassel.
The architectural style showcases a blend of Baroque and Neoclassical elements. Among the notable historical figures who visited in the 19th century were Franz Joseph I of Austria, the future British King Edward VII, and Danish Kings Christian IX and Frederick VIII. Following the annexation of the Hessian State after the Austro-Prussian War, the estate fell into neglect until it was restored in the 1970s.
Today, the palace is home to condominiums, and the picturesque riverside park is accessible to the public, featuring woodlands, lawns, and delightful views of the palace.
3. Büsing Palais
Another significant landmark in Offenbach, Büsing Palais is a charming former mansion that now serves as a venue for conventions and exhibitions, surrounded by public parkland.
The property dates back to the 18th century, and it was here that the young poet Johann Wolfgang von Goethe spent a summer with his first love, Lili Schönemann; consequently, there is a garden named in her honor on the northern side.
The magnificent Neo-Baroque architecture was commissioned by the affluent businessman Adolf von Büsing at the end of the 19th century, and despite sustaining damage during World War II, it was not fully restored until the 1980s.
Throughout the summer, concerts are held in the courtyard, including performances for the Main World Music Festival in early July.
4. Klingspor Museum
This museum, situated in the south wing of the Büsing Palais, is essential for graphic designers as it focuses on typefaces and typography.
Named after the Klingspor Type Foundry, which operated from 1906 to 1956, the museum displays a range of foundry types, including Peter Behrens’ “Behrens Roman” and, most notably, Rudolf Koch’s acclaimed Neuland and Kabel.
Visitors can view the remarkable works of these renowned type designers within the galleries, along with the largest collection of printed works by experimental typographer Hendrik Nicolaas Werkman outside of the Netherlands.
The museum presents up to five temporary exhibitions each year, mainly related to book design, featuring artists such as Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, Max Slevogt, Andy Warhol, and Joan Miró.
5. German Leather Museum
Offenbach’s leather industry has its roots dating back to the late 18th century, making it an ideal location for a museum that showcases leather and its various applications worldwide.
The museum, which has operated for over a century, displays exceptional examples of leather craftsmanship from the Middle Ages to contemporary times.
Exhibits include armor, shields, masks, and cases belonging to historical figures such as Napoleon and Empress Joséphine, as well as exquisitely crafted items by Louis Vuitton.
The ethnographic collection features leather artifacts from America, Africa, and Asia, including shadow puppets from Southeast Asia and a ceremonial dress from the Lakota people of North America.
Additionally, the German Shoe Museum showcases over 15,000 footwear pieces, ranging from a Roman soldier’s boot to intricately crafted silk shoes worn by the Hessian aristocracy in the 1700s.
6. Wetterpark
Offenbach could aptly be termed as Germany’s “weather city” since it serves as the headquarters for the German Weather Service (Deutsches Wetterdienst). In alignment with this, a free, weather-themed park is located in the southeastern part of the city.
Spanning over 20,000 square meters, the park features an adventure trail with stations that ingeniously demonstrate the physics behind solar energy, air pressure, precipitation, fog, and Earth’s atmosphere.
A visitor center offers interactive models, allowing visitors to observe tornado mechanisms and generate storms using a hairdryer.
The Sicht Turm, a 12.3-meter lookout tower within the park, provides panoramic views over Offenbach, as well as the skyscrapers of Frankfurt.
7. Westend
This western expansion of the city was developed over a span of four decades from the 1870s until the First World War, serving as a residential area for Offenbach’s growing middle and upper classes.
Starting from the center of Offenbach, the neighborhood begins just after the German Leather Museum on Ludwigstraße and extends across multiple blocks.
Today, Westend remains a prime residential choice for affluent citizens of both Frankfurt and Offenbach, offering a stylish environment to stroll leisurely.
The opulent villas lining these streets were predominantly constructed by a single firm, Gebrüder Hasenbach, and showcase the Historicist and Art Nouveau styles of their era.
Remarkably, nearly all of these residences have survived intact into the 21st century, as Westend was spared from extensive war damage.
8. Alter Friedhof
Though it may sound somber, Offenbach’s old cemetery is a remarkable location for a leisurely stroll.
This burial ground dates back to 1832 and is now classified as a protected monument, celebrated for its historic memorials and the beautiful avenue of plane trees planted nearly two centuries ago.
Notable architecture includes the exquisite Art Nouveau Krumm Mausoleum, which features a stunning mosaic dome representing a starry sky.
Jewish plots and graves of significant figures, such as the first Hessian Prime Minister Carl Ulrich, can also be found here.
Additionally, historic monuments, including a memorial for Offenbach’s casualties from the Franco-Prussian War of 1870-71, are also present in Alter Friedhof.
9. Haus der Stadtgeschichte
The Haus der Stadtgeschichte was established to combine the municipal museum and city archives under one roof, serving as a historical institution that chronicles 10,000 years of Offenbach’s heritage.
The extensive collection of artifacts and the modern design of the galleries have solidified the museum as a cultural cornerstone in the eastern Rhine-Main region.
Among its notable exhibits is a burial cart belonging to a Celtic prince, along with a reconstruction that illustrates the cart’s appearance.
Models of Offenbach from 1800 and 1850 depict the city’s rapid growth, while items produced by several local faience manufacturies are on display.
Noteworthily, the upper floor features a charming Rococo dollhouse that belonged to the affluent D’Orville family, dating back to 1757.
10. Waldzoo Offenbach
On the southern outskirts of Offenbach, a park houses a variety of primarily European domesticated animal species.
The zoo promotes interaction, with bags of animal feed available for purchase at the entrance.
Amid unpaved paths in the woodlands are expansive enclosures for Scottish Highland cattle, domestic pigs, goats, and sheep.
Children will delight in the miniature Shetland ponies that only reach waist height.
The zoo also serves as a rescue center for abandoned exotic pets such as turtles, parrots, and cockatiels, in addition to featuring more unusual species like capybaras and kangaroos.
11. Capitol
Just a short walk from the Büsing Palais is a Neoclassical theater and conference center with a compelling history.
Completed in 1916, the Capitol was originally a synagogue and community center for Offenbach’s substantial Jewish population.
The eye-catching rotunda features a thirty-meter-high dome supported by reinforced concrete, a new material at the time.
The interior was devastated during the Kristallnacht in 1938; however, the building survived the attack and transitioned to a cinema and theater.
Although it fell into disrepair by the 1990s, it underwent renovation and now serves as a prominent venue for classical music concerts, pop band performances, musicals, stand-up comedy, plays, and corporate events.
12. Wilhelmsplatz
While navigating Offenbach on foot, visitors are likely to find themselves in this spacious rectangular square located at the heart of the city.
Wilhelmsplatz is bordered on two sides by chestnut trees and hosts Offenbach’s weekly market, which will be discussed subsequently.
Interestingly, this location was once the city’s primary cemetery, with the last burial occurring in 1832. Graves continued to be discovered and relocated to the Alter Friedhof until 2009, when the square received significant renovations.
Surrounded by residential buildings on all four sides, a notable feature is the Markthäuschen, a charming market hall constructed on the northern side in the early 1910s.
Since 1986, this establishment has operated as a restaurant where local Apfelwein cider can be sampled.
13. Wochenmarkt
Visitors from distant places, particularly from Frankfurt, flock to the market that operates in Wilhelmsplatz on Tuesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays.
During the summer, Offenbach’s market radiates charm, with bars, cafes, and bistros extending onto the pavement and mingling with stalls shaded by chestnut trees.
Market vendors offer an array of products, including fruits, vegetables, fresh herbs, dairy products, eggs, meats, pastries, confectionery, spices, tea, and coffee, much of which is sourced locally.
With a diverse population, Offenbach also caters to various international tastes, featuring specialties such as Greek feta, Turkish honey, and Italian baked goods like cannoli and pandoro.
14. Mainufer
Historically, the Main served as a crucial shipping route, with warehouses and industries lining its left bank.
However, since the late 20th century, the riverside has been transformed into a green recreational area, with much of the vessel traffic now comprised of private yachts.
Complemented by new residential projects, the Mainuferpark features an elongated strip of lawns, along with cycling and walking paths flanked by poplar trees.
Several benches are situated along the route, allowing visitors to observe the river’s flow and feed the resident swans and ducks, while playgrounds and sports facilities enhance the promenade’s appeal.
15. Frankfurt
If you are pondering what activities to undertake in Offenbach, a vibrant urban center lies just a short distance around the bend on the Main.
One can easily board the S-Bahn and arrive amidst towering skyscrapers within minutes.
The Museumsufer along the river boasts an extensive collection of museums, making it difficult to select where to commence.
If a choice is required, the Städel Museum offers an impressive array of Old Master paintings, including works by Rembrandt, van Eyck, and Hieronymus Bosch.
In the Altstadt, the gabled 15th-century Römer building and the Renaissance Gerechtigkeitsbrunnen stand as prime photographic opportunities.
Additionally, the south bank of the river presents an enjoyable experience, especially on summer evenings, as office workers relax while gazing at the modern skyline.
No visit to Frankfurt would be complete without sampling the traditional green sauce (composed of eggs, seven herbs, and sour cream) alongside a glass of Apfelwein.
