Summary
Located alongside the historic Loire River, Nevers serves as the capital of the tranquil and rural Nièvre Department in central France.
Historically, the city was under the governance of the Counts and Dukes of Nevers, with their richly adorned Renaissance residence currently functioning as the Town Hall.
Those acquainted with decorative arts may recognize Nevers faience, exquisite earthenware produced by skilled artisans, whose industry employed thousands during the 17th and 18th centuries.
A handful of workshops continue this tradition, and the local museum showcases an impressive array of remarkable craftsmanship.
Let us explore the most noteworthy attractions in Nevers:
1. Nevers Cathedral
Visitors familiar with cathedrals will notice something distinctive about this extraordinary medieval structure: it features two apses, one at the west end where the nave would typically have its entrance, and another on the customary east side.
This exceptional layout arises because the apse at the western end is a remnant of an earlier Romanesque church that was destroyed by fire in 1308. In this historical apse, a fresco dating back to the 1100s can be found, and visitors can descend into the crypt to view an entombment from the 1400s.
The nave and the eastern apse, conversely, exemplify Gothic architecture and mainly date back to the 13th and 14th centuries.
2. Palais Ducal
Perched on elevated ground where Nevers’ political and religious institutions are located, the Ducal Palace symbolizes the authority of the former Counts and Dukes of Nevers.
The architecture is captivating, showcasing a harmonious blend of Renaissance elements from the 16th and 17th centuries, characterized by dormer windows, ornamental chimneys, and a central spiral staircase visible from the front.
Initiated by Jean de Clamency, the Count of Nevers, the palace was intended to be more stately than a mere fortress.
Presently, the palace serves as the town hall but it also accommodates Nevers’ tourist office and an exhibition detailing the city’s history.
3. Musée de la Faïence
A treasure trove for individuals with an appreciation for exquisite decorative objects, this museum, housed in a Benedictine abbey, features hundreds of pieces of local faience.
Visitors will admire the technical expertise of the Nevers Manufactories.
The collection encompasses a variety of items, including tiles, dishes, ceremonial plates, statuettes, and bottles, representing over four centuries of craftsmanship.
Moreover, the galleries showcase nearly 300 pieces of elaborately enamel-painted glass from the 17th and 18th centuries, crafted using techniques that are no longer available.
In addition, the museum exhibits artwork from both the French and Italian Schools.
4. Faience Workshops
The faience industry in Nevers began flourishing at the close of the 1500s, after Italian potters settled in the area at the invitation of the Duke of Nevers.
The location was ideal for this craft, as the Loire River provided efficient export routes and wood from the Morvan forest achieved the necessary temperatures to bake ceramics.
However, the industry began to decline at the end of the 18th century, with only one of the original twelve manufactories remaining operational.
Since the 20th century, there has been a revival, and visitors can explore three workshops: Faiencerie d’art de Nevers, Faiencerie Georges, and Faiencerie Bleue, where master potters can be seen at work.
5. Porte du Croux
Renowned for its medieval significance, the Porte du Croux on the west side of the old city presents intriguing features: as one approaches the city, one can observe the slits designed for chains on the drawbridge.
In the 14th century, this drawbridge was lowered to allow transit over the Passière River, which has since been redirected underground.
Looking higher, visitors can spot the machicolations and turrets supported by corbels.
Inside, a small archaeological exhibit detailing the history of Nevers and its surroundings is displayed across three floors.
6. Promenade des Remparts
From the Porte du Croux, one can leisurely walk towards the right bank of the Loire, traversing a charming garden that includes a lengthy stretch of the city’s ancient walls.
These fortifications were established in the 12th century by the Count of Nevers, Pierre de Courtenay, to safeguard the Abbey of Notre-Dame.
Post-1600s, these defenses were rendered unnecessary.
Nevertheless, this extensive piece of the wall has become integrated into local properties, while the garden’s marshy terrain has prevented development.
As a result, a significant portion of the medieval wall now coexists with pergolas, trees, a rose garden, and colorful flowerbeds, culminating in picturesque views of the Loire from the Quai des Mariniers.
7. Église Saint-Étienne
Although this church on the eastern edge of the city receives fewer visitors, individuals who appreciate historic architecture should undertake the brief walk to see it.
The Church of Saint-Étienne is a remarkable Romanesque structure, constructed from subtly golden limestone over 900 years ago, and has seen minimal alterations over time.
The prominent 19th-century restoration expert Viollet-le-Duc referred to it as “the most perfect 11th-century monument remaining in France.” While the architecture is understated, lacking extensive sculpture or adornment, its purity of style and preservation are unmatched.
8. Nevers Magny-Cours Circuit
Automobile enthusiasts will recall that the French Grand Prix used to be annually hosted at this racetrack until 2008 when the French Motorsports Federation withdrew from the tour.
The track, located a mere 15 minutes away, holds a few minor international events but predominantly serves heritage rallies, testing, and track days. Consequently, those interested in experiencing a driving session on a circuit once graced by notable drivers such as Michael Schumacher, Mika Häkkinene, and Ayrton Senna can arrange a driving experience with various companies, offering rides in Ferrari, Lamborghini, Porsche, or F1 vehicles.
9. Espace Bernadette
Nevers also serves as a significant pilgrimage site, as it is where Bernadette Soubirous became a postulant and worked in a convent until her passing in 1879. For context, Soubirous was the woman who witnessed the reported Marian Apparition that transformed the town of Lourdes into a pivotal location in the Catholic world.
A museum at the Motherhouse of the Sisters of Charity provides insight into her life and daily activities surrounding the former Saint-Gildard Convent.
Her reportedly incorrupt body is on display in the adjoining chapel.
10. Église Sainte-Bernadette du Banlay
In the northern suburbs of Nevers, one can encounter a building that stands in stark contrast to the delicate architecture of the historic center.
Visitors might mistake it for a remnant from wartime, as this church closely resembles a German concrete bunker.
Such resemblance is intentional; the functionalist architect Paul Virilio drew inspiration from the blockhouses prevalent in post-war France.
The building features two concrete half shells cantilevered upon a central pillar, creating an architectural style that is truly unique.
11. Voie Verte de Nevers
In the 19th century, a canal was excavated to run parallel to the Loire, ensuring that goods could be transported even when the river flooded in the winter or receded in the summer.
In Nevers, a 13-kilometer section of the canal’s towpath has been transformed into a greenway.
This designated cycling route allows individuals of all ages to explore the lush countryside surrounding Nevers, an area characterized by a patchwork of market gardens bordered by hedges.
For those seeking an adventure, the greenway at Pont de Guetin connects with Loire à Vélo, a well-marked and maintained trail that follows the river all the way to its estuary in the Atlantic.
12. Chapelle Sainte-Marie
As you navigate through the city’s center, this opulent structure on Rue Saint-Martin will undoubtedly catch your eye.
The Chapelle Sainte-Marie boasts a lavish Italian Baroque style that is virtually unheard of in the Nivernais region and rare throughout France.
Originally part of the Monastery of the Visitation, it was established in the first half of the 17th century.
Duchess Louise-Marie de Gonzague, the future Queen of Poland, laid the foundation stone.
Taking a moment to admire the columns and the statue of Madonna with Child is worthwhile, though the chapel is open for exploration on Saturdays during the summer.
13. The Loire
One can also wander along this “Fleuve Royal,” envisioning the barges that transported faience to various locations across France and Europe during the 17th and 18th centuries.
The banks surrounding Nevers are scenic and tranquil, characterized primarily by woodland, water meadows, hedgerows, and vegetable farms.
If one secures a fishing license, they can visit the riverside to catch perch, pike, whitefish, and carp.
Additionally, canoe rentals are available, along with guided paddling excursions through the Canoë Club Nivernais.
For those preferring a motorized experience, a small port located at Sermoise-sur-Loire offers boat rentals for leisurely explorations along the Lateral Canal.
14. Apremont-sur-Allier
A couple of kilometers west of Nevers, the Allier River converges with the Loire. Following the course of the Allier for a short distance leads to a village renowned for its beauty.
Apremont is a collection of quaint settlements along the western bank of the river.
Here, the intertwining of the Allier’s waters, the vibrant greenery along the riverside, rustic stone dwellings, and the exquisite Château d’Apremont creates an unforgettable ambiance.
The grounds of the Château showcase a splendid floral park that descends towards the river, adorned with follies, ponds, and cascades.
15. Local Gastronomy
When dining at a restaurant in Nevers, opt for the regional specialty, Charolais beef, considered a staple of Burgundy’s culinary offerings.
While tartare is a common presentation, those seeking an alternative will find the entrecôte steaks to be exceptional.
Fresh fish from the Loire, including perch, pike, trout, or small fried varieties, are also available on the menu.
Additionally, at the Carnot covered market, open from Tuesday to Saturday mornings, visitors can discover other local products such as goat cheese, honey, and pain d’épices, a sweet spiced loaf akin to gingerbread.
