Summary
On the high west bank of the River Lune, Kirkby Lonsdale is a charming market town renowned for offering one of England’s most picturesque views.
Known as Ruskin’s View, this breathtaking sight was depicted by J. M. W. Turner in 1822 and celebrated by John Ruskin, a pivotal figure in Victorian Britain.
The vista encompasses a carefully curated grouping that includes the partially Norman St Mary’s Church, a scenic staircase leading down to the riverside, and the Medieval Devil’s Bridge featuring three ribbed arches.
Positioned on the edge of the Yorkshire Dales National Park, Kirkby Lonsdale serves as an excellent starting point for excursions to stone-built villages, cascading waterfalls, towering hills, caves, and unique limestone pavement expansive areas.
1. Ruskin’s View
Located behind St Mary’s Churchyard is a well-known viewpoint along the high west bank of the River Lune.
In 1875, esteemed writer and artist John Ruskin, whose philosophies would later impact the Arts and Crafts movement, characterized this scene as “one of the loveliest views in England.” Long before Ruskin visited, this panorama of the Lune Valley had been captured by J. M. W. Turner.
The view encompasses a bend in the Lune, the mature oak trees lining the opposite bank, and the initial hills of the Yorkshire Dales in the background.
Additionally, one can spot Underley Hall, a Jacobean Revival house constructed in the 1820s that functioned as a school until 2012.
2. Devil’s Bridge
Situated parallel to the A65, this three-span gritstone ashlar bridge over the River Lune was constructed around 1370 and at that time served as the sole crossing point for several miles.
It is part of the old Skipton to Kendal route, likely commissioned by the monks of St Mary’s Abbey in York.
According to local legend, the bridge was said to have been built by the devil, under the condition that he could claim the first soul to cross.
Upon completion of the bridge, the woman throwing a loaf of bread for her dog to chase thwarted the devil’s intentions.
A dent found in the stone at the apex of the bridge is believed to be the devil’s handprint.
Beneath the bridge are rock pools that reach depths of five meters, occasionally explored by scuba divers.
3. St Mary’s Church
Built on the site of an early Anglo-Saxon Church, St Mary’s began construction in the late 11th century.
This initial structure underwent renovation up until the 16th century and again during alterations in the 18th and 19th centuries.
However, captivating Norman Romanesque details remain, notably in the three rounded arches on the nave’s north side.
These arches date back to the 12th century and feature columns adorned with a lozenge pattern reminiscent of those in the renowned Durham Cathedral.
Among the columns, one can find a Green Man, with foliage emerging from its mouth.
The tower’s entrance portal is also Romanesque, whereas the rounded doorways on the southern porch exhibit neo-Romanesque elements from the 19th century.
The atmospheric churchyard boasts a total of ten listed monuments, including a distinct table tomb belonging to Rowland Tarham from 1716.
4. Radical Steps
Located in the northeastern corner of the churchyard are 86 steps leading down to the Lune riverside.
Visitors commonly encounter these steps while walking along the river from the Devil’s Bridge and then ascending to Ruskin’s View.
The steps were constructed in 1819, deriving their name from Francis Pearson.
As a local political advocate, Pearson’s petitions effectively redirected a public path to the river that previously traversed through his garden.
5. Market Square
In the historic Market Square of Kirkby Lonsdale, you can gaze east towards the first hills of the Yorkshire Dales.
The square is lined with local shops offering antiques, gifts, and sweets, while handsome Georgian buildings stand at both the east and west ends.
The Royal Hotel, a townhouse on the west side, received a visit from Queen Adelaide in 1840, while the old town hall on the east retains its clock and belfry.
At the center of Market Square, your attention will be captured by the Tudor Gothic market cross, erected in 1905, which showcases eight Tudor arches, buttresses, an embattled parapet, and pinnacles.
6. Ingleton Waterfalls Trail
Located six miles along the A65, the village of Ingleton provides access to exquisite scenery along the Ingleton Waterfalls Trail.
This five-mile trek begins and concludes in the village, leading you through oak woodland classified as a Site of Special Scientific Interest.
The trail ascends into a craggy geological terrain along the North and South Craven Fault, and you will pass by seven distinct waterfalls, including the remarkable Thornton Force and the captivating triple spout of Beezley Falls.
Originally opened in 1885, this trail traverses private land and requires an entry fee of £7. Additionally, Ingleton is notably located in the shadow of Ingleborough, the second-highest mountain in the Yorkshire Dales at 723 meters.
Together with Whernside and Pen-y-ghent, this forms part of the renowned Three Peaks.
Experienced hikers can undertake all three summits via the Three Peaks Walk, while the well-known Three Peaks Race commences and concludes in Horton, Ribblesdale on the last weekend of April.
7. Barbon
The quaint village of Barbon is located just ten minutes by car from Kirkby Lonsdale and lies within the Yorkshire Dales National Park, presenting views of high, rounded hills such as Calf Top and Gragareth to the north and east.
The Barbon Inn is a former coaching inn dating back to the 1600s, while Kirkby Lonsdale Golf Club, which will be discussed later, is situated on the western boundary of the village.
Throughout May, June, and July, the Barbon Manor Speed Hillclimb is held, featuring an uphill motorsport event on the driveway of Barbon Manor Park.
During June, regional championships occur, culminating in the British Hillclimb Championship events in July.
8. White Scar Cave
Just a couple of minutes from Ingleton is the longest show cave in the UK, burrowing beneath the impressive Ingleborough.
Discovered by amateur geologists in 1923, White Scar Cave stretches 3.7 miles through Carboniferous limestone formed over millennia by the action of mildly acidic water.
Visitors will don hard hats for a guided tour that navigates this extraordinary subterranean realm for approximately one mile, lasting around 80 minutes.
The journey starts with the First Waterfall, characterized by a discharge rate of 55 tons per minute at full flow. Those with claustrophobia may wish to prepare themselves for The Squeeze, where the trail narrows to less than half a meter between two bulging flowstone walls.
Along the route, you will observe fascinating formations such as the Arum Lily stalagmite column and the Carrots, small stalactites displaying a bright orange color due to their iron content.
9. Gragareth
Leave the A65 at Cowan Bridge and proceed along a secluded lane leading to Leck Fell House, where you can hike to the highest point in Lancashire at 627 meters.
The circular route to the summit of Gragareth and back spans 10.5 miles across steeply inclined open moorland framed by limestone crags and bluffs, typically taking just over four hours.
The ascent up the western side of the hill passes by the Three Men of Gragareth, a set of three significant stone cairns.
Gragareth is abundant in caves, including the remarkable 50-meter-wide chamber of Yordas Cave.
At the summit of Gragareth, take a moment to rest and admire a breathtaking panorama that includes the Lake District Fells, Ingleborough, the Forest of Bowland to the south, and Morecambe Bay to the west.
10. Hutton Roof National Nature Reserve
One of the nation’s finest examples of limestone pavement can be found just five miles from the village of Hutton Roof.
The contoured limestone surface at Hutton Roof Crags supports a variety of rare flowering plants and ferns that thrive in the limited soil.
During the spring, the vibrant dark-red helleborine, early purple orchids, and fly orchids create a spectacular display.
From April onwards, an array of butterflies appears, initiated by green hairstreaks, brimstones, and small tortoiseshells.
In mid-summer, the harmonious sounds of nuthatches, skylarks, willow warblers, woodcocks, and great-spotted woodpeckers fill the air.
The unusual landscape continues to the north at Heysham Limestone Pavement/Newbiggin Crags, which is an enjoyable location for bouldering.
11. Whittington
You can embark on a journey from Kirkby Lonsdale on foot to the village of Whittington, traversing tranquil lanes and lush farmlands along the verdant hillsides by the River Lune.
Perched atop a prominent hill in Whittington is St Mary the Archangel Church, which boasts a history dating back to the early 13th century, believed to have been constructed on the motte of a former Norman castle.
The tower originates from the early 1500s, while the remainder of the structure was reconstructed in 1875. Within the churchyard, you can find a sundial dating back to 1641. You can return to Kirkby via the River Lune or continue your hike to Hutton Roof and Farleton, where you will encounter expansive sections of limestone pavement.
12. Salt Pie Lane
There exists a delightful piece of local folklore at this alley situated between Main Street and Horse Market.
Initially referred to as “Cattle Market Yard,” this alley was where cattle were kept for sale at the old Horse Market.
The name was changed at the onset of the 20th century when a woman initiated a business selling salted mutton pies to the market traders.
To quench their thirst, those traders would frequent the Snooty Fox down the corner on Main Street (previously known as The Green Dragon). Coincidentally, the landlord here was related to the woman who baked those thirst-inducing pies!
13. Kirkby Lonsdale Brewery
Established in 2009, Kirkby Lonsdale Brewery has achieved resounding success, unveiling a spacious tap house at The Royal Barn in December 2016.
The brewery produces an array of ales, wheat beers, IPAs, stouts, fruit beers, and best bitters.
The flagship product is “Ruskins,” an ale crafted with high-quality Maris Otter malted barley and Brewers Gold and Magnum hops for a dry finish with hints of spice and fruit.
Kirkby Lonsdale Brewery offers six regular beers along with five seasonal specials, such as the autumnal brown ale Devil’s Bridge.
At the tap house, which operates daily, visitors can sample the brewery’s selections and choose from over 60 craft beers from around the globe.
14. Kirkby Lonsdale Golf Club
While Kirkby Lonsdale Golf Club was established in 1906, the contemporary 18-hole course was only developed during the 1990s and is now maturing beautifully.
The course spans 160 acres of parkland, initially extending alongside the Lune valley on the front nine and ascending again on the back nine.
The highest point is at the 15th green, offering cherished views of the Howgill Fells to the north, just before contending against the prevailing south-westerly breeze on the concluding three holes.
As of early 2019, green fees were £20 for 18 holes or £36 for a day ticket.
Even closer to the town is Casterton Golf Club, featuring a par 68 main course, a nine-hole par 3 course, a driving range, and a unique “footgolf” course, played using a football!
15. Kirkby Lonsdale Street Market
Kirkby Lonsdale was awarded a market charter as early as 1227, and the market continues to operate every Thursday on the elegant Market Square, where a car park typically would be.
Open from 08:00 to 16:00, visitors can shop for various local produce as well as handmade souvenirs, jewelry, flowers, and plants.
Additionally, between 10:00 and 12:00 on the same day, a Country Market unfolds in the Lunesdale Hall along New Road.
Here, an enticing assortment of bread, pastries, cakes, preserves, and jams is available alongside a selection of home goods.
